MrBean

As mentioned, one of my early objectives were to keep the fitting of the Carputer as factory-looking as possible, and with that idea in mind, I had to properly route powercables etc... I am using 12gauge cables for the Carputer, even though the current-draw from the system would only be totalling 10A max of my 12V rail, I would still like to over-engineer a little in this department, as I would not like undersized cabling giving me problems later. With that in mind, I found a spare "plug" close to my brake master cylinder, allowing me a pass-through from the engine compartment into the passenger compartment. Here you can see it next to the master cylinder.... And here is a shot from next to the brake-pedal (footwell) on the inside..... It will be properly routed and secured on the inside with a proper power-distribution block, similar to the ones the audiophiles use to tap off power for their amps.... Here you can see how I routed the cables over the brakebooster, inside the split-loom - 10mm x 2m tubing obtained from Jaycar. And a close-up of the same, using saddles and cableties to secure the split-loom. Here is how I routed the split-loom/cables into the fusebox.......see where I mounted the earth wire.....properly soldered into the correct 12-gauge lug, and secured with a bolt to the vehicle chassis - I checked resistance from this point to the std vehicle earth points, as well as to the battery negative, and the resistance is 0.1 ohms - good quality grounding Here is another angle of the wiring, and the circles would indicate where the positive would be connected to - I will check my w/shhop manuals to see which of the 2 points are the best, but both seems to originate directly from the battery + pole. I may use the one with the least current-drain on based on info in the manuals. Here is a last shot, showing with the water reservoir bolted down again, and the fusebox lid secured - you can hardly see that there is 2 new beefy 12-gauge cables running into the cabin..... And in this area here is where the Carputer will be located - or maybe not, let's see where the best location is.... Can hardly wait.

Bought a 2nd hand ICC from someone on the forum, and tested it at ASL - thanx FADI...I must admit, people can go and learn a lot wrt Customer Service levels from Fadi - thanx Mate, great Service! Just as a reminder, this is what the UTE came fitted with from the factory, manual aircon control unit, monocolor LCD, nothing fancy..... So, I fitted the new unit, this is what it looks like in daytime: and then, in nightime, it inverts LCD background to take strain away from your eyes while driving: a Big upgrqade, one that would now allow me to mount my carputer, and display that info on the TFT LCD in the new ICC, something which enables me to keep that "Factory" look - but maybe I will do something different here, as the display quality of the factory LCD is not that great, plus it is on the small side... Well, everything working, except aircon system - will need to take the UTE to Ford tomorrow, to flash "high-level" HIM (Hvac Interface Module) software, to enable new control unit to correctly operate aircon and ventilation system, pump, vents, etc.

from this: to this: But, enough of the UTE's engine compartment, this is not what the topic is about.....

The candidate - these are pics when I first got the car from Etheridge Ford in Vermont, Vic, nowadays it has Nizpro Stage 2 Plus with 370rwkw.

Hello Everyone, I have posted this elsewhere, but maybe a good idea to do a log on an all-Ozzie website, maybe someone with BF/BA Falcons can use some of my ideas. Goals: 1) Most important is the factory look! The mod must/will not detract from original factory looks... 2) Powerful system, doing multitasking without ANY hickups. 3) Deadreckoning GPS system, using Gyro and GPS input (this might not happen though) 4) Capacity to play MP3's, DVD's 5) Internet Wireless connectivity. 6) Infrared (IR) control of computer 7) On/Off activation either manually, or selectively ignition controlled OBD-II (onboard diagnostics) display and logging of variables. 9) Quiet operation, minimizing powerdrain. 10) High-quality Touchscreen - 5-wire resistive or capacitive. 11) Afterthought - I want to add a GSM modem/phone setup, which will be housed in the same carputer enclosure, so if I dial the simcard number, it will start relaying GPS NMEA strings - in other words, positional data, from the GPS, via sms messages, to my cellphone - or something similar - will need to think about this one a little. So, as you all can see, the goals above will determine plenty much what components I select for this Project, as I have realized early on although a Via Epia "may" work, it will not do so to satisfy my unique requirements. I need a machine that can multitask, and do so without effort! a Few pictures to follow.

Seems I'm the only South-African supporter on here :( G'luck to you guys though, it's sure going to be an interesting 1/4 finals.

Ha, No problem, enjoy your vacation Thanx for the linkie!

Thanx for the update Glad the lo_bat sorted it for you, I am using the relay anyway...hehe - call me paranoid...lol Which ground-loop isolator did you buy?

@ Ritzy: Visit my Project Log at Mp3 Car to see how I am fitting the largest possible screen to a F6 Dualzone system - I have linked to the last page, look at the bottom somewhere for some initial fascia pics - you can also study the log from the start to look at my trials and tribulations Plenty info, and pics for diy types. The LCD is a 10.4", and you won't fit a larger LCD to the original fascia.....good fun...

It's an integrated unit. You cannot easily seperate the radio from the Climate Controls. a Lot of reverse engineering would be required. You can, however, move the LCD somewhere else, and extend the wiring, as it is external to the ICC enclosure. Have fun.

Good going, Adam, glad you got it all sorted Just one thing you may want to do though - install a relay on ther main-supply to the Carnetix, with a switch to power it on/off - for thos eperiods your car will be sitting for a week or longer, the Carnetix will drain the battery. Trust me, I have been there So, basically the ign will still shut the Carnetix on/off, provided the relay on the mains is energized. Realy off, Carnetix don't power up.....easy solution.

I guess I am to late then to join you guys at the infield? Bloody hell.....wish I could go in with you :(

I am with Dingah on this one, you want a car, you like it, you buy it. Things change a few days later, tough luck. The lesson here is to always study the market, and the specific brand/model, and ask the questions pertaining to near-future upgrades etc.

I will probably end up putting some decent aftermarket Recaro buckets in mine - I have one seating position, once I adjust my seat, that's it, so I don't need all this fancy adjustments/memory seats etc - but, then again, it's only me driving the UTE, the Missus always a passenger

Here's direct linkie to the Paddles I mentioned earlier Who's gonna be brave and fit them?

Hello Guys, I have a simracing setup at home, with the ECCI Trackstar steering wheel, and very decent paddles. Before you go on a giggle-trip, the paddles that ECCI have developed for this wheel, they also sell to a few Nascar-teams - yeah, they're that good. I have a spare set, and might consider fitting these onto my UTE, should not be too difficult, but I will need to take of the steering wheel to see if it would be possible to do this. They do sell these paddle-shifters as a kit though, something $300'ish if memory serves, I can't confirm because I am behind a corporate firewall - will post a direct link tonight though, otherwise you can browse their accessories page.

Fark me...you're a big bunch of Ozzies. Remind me to never look for trouble with you guys. I am only 6'4 and 106kgs :( Beanie off to get some steaks, eggs, potatos and Spaghetti. I have the same problem, feels like I am sitting higher than I should, tilting the seat rearwards at lowest setting seems to help a little (F6 Tornado with leather)

Back home I used to call this delays "Africa Time" Sad really that such a beautiful country is driven into the ground by incompetence, and lazyness. :(

Nice link, Newl, ta

All my grounds re: Carputer are directly connected to bat (-) Anyway, as stated above, it is working fine powering LCD from the Carnetix, which is anyway the best way to go (filtered to all components), so I have no interference from the alternator. No worries, I am sure someone else would find a different way that works too, for me this was the easiest and cleanest since I had the Carnetix controller anyway, so might as well put it to good use

I am using 2 different PC's, one a Apple MacMini, then a Commell-based system. 3 Different DC-DC startup/shutdown controllers, M2-ATX, Carnetix P1900, and Carnetix P2140. Same result - problem is the Factory LCD powered by raw DC from battery, and no good filter implemented. I use a Xenarc 7" LCD powered by the secondary output on the Carnetix controller, and no problem - if I power the Xenarc with the same raw 12Vdc from the battery, I have the same issues. At least in my case it is the quality of the power causing an issue. So, I am now permanently running the Xenarc, and off the secondary dc-dc controller output. Just thought I'd clear that up.

I had a good chuckle at this one He still had the bolz to chirp you when you stopped...hehe

Nope, it still goes sideways with TC on in the wet, feels like there's no TC active I have "only" 360+rwkw's, and at this level it is dangerous in the wet. Once you hit boost at any gear 80kph, she will let go. I am use to the UTE now, anticipate break of traction, and I can also control kickdown, so no problem. The point is getting used to the car before you play, remember it will bite you if it can. I would say 300-350rwkw is a max for reliable street use, the lower limit safer for allround conditions, while approaching 350rwkw is getting on the wrong side of silly Be careful with this power, and in a UTE with live rear and LSD, be extra careful. Have fun, post us your expereince when you do the upgrade. Br, Beanie

Why won't it work on our cars? That device works on CANbus, and uses as physical layer standard RS-485 based differential signalling communications, and as protocol supports CAN 1.0b. It may not support all our PID's, but the standard SAE-Pids will be supported, things like RPM, Speed, MAP/MAF and a few other sensors. Have fun.

If you have a Falcon, make sure that device supports CANbus 1.0b (11-bit) protocol Otherwise it won't work. Br, MrBean