Puffwagon

Ten litres of ULX oil acquired, will get out there in a bit to drop the oil and fit some brake pads. See how I go, I'm sick as a bastard with the flu so I might die out the arse. Still gonna get it on the dyno tomorrow afternoon, so oil and filter will be done at a minimum. I've driven 124km and used half a tank of fuel...

Looks to be integrated from my 10 minutes of googling. Also chinese whispers are the new comments

Here's the rest, hope this helps some guys doing this stuff by themselves at home ZF_-_TechServiceMan.pdf ZF6_Webinar-FINAL.pdf ZF6HP26.pdf

@k31th can you give me some more file capacity so I can upload another 3 files? Shouldn't need much

Here's a bunch of PDFs related to the zf series of transmissions, mostly 6 speed variants. They range from simple connector seal installs right down to complete rebuild procedures, including the adaptation procedure after a trans reset. ZF.Trans.Mechtronics.pdf ZF_Adaptation procedure.pdf ZF6-GEN2-ZIP.pdf ZF_Workbook-transmission-6-8HP.pdf

The torque converter just pulls out, when you reinstall it you need to spin and push until it goes in enough. The spigot on the converter will be inside the bell housing, if it isn't just spin and jiggle some more. If you don't seat it properly you run the risk of breaking the trans pump gears. I have a pdf or two that show a bit about the zf, I'll dig them up for you. There is one on a Jaguar forum, you'll probably find it if you google it.

Because a lot of work has gone into the base fuel map, there isn't much left to do there. Much the same for the stock pcm. Having wideband correction is a nice thing to have for when things aren't perfect. Live tuning is a plus but having gotten used to flash tuning, there isn't a lot in it. In some cases it makes it miles quicker but not always. I sat in the driveway spooling it up and could adjust the timing on the fly to see if it would spool more, you can't really do that with the stock pcm, unless you have custom hardware to integrate into it. The ignition map is a bit optimistic, I think I already commented on it a few weeks ago. There are a couple of issues with it right now, the cruise control doesn't work and the knock control doesn't work. I can see the knock sensors are hearing the engine noise but they don't actually pull any timing when it knocks. Maybe I'm a dumbass and just missed something in the setup? I emailed them but didn't hear back, I need to give them a call and see when they have time to have a chat about getting it sorted.

Actually surprisingly little left of tuning, the Haltech does a lot of the heavy lifting for you. Just gotta fit the boost solenoid and work out a duty cycle ramp, pretty easy stuff to do. It should come on a little earlier and quicker too cos I can hold the wastegate shut for longer.

$200 later and I have a full tank of E55 due to having some 98 left in the tank, and 2 jerry cans of E85. Told the Haltech the ethanol percentage and it started and drove, it's nearly that simple. Gave it some more timing, will leave it at 15 degrees for now and give it more when the ethanol content is higher. Could probably just give it all the timing now but will wait until Friday. It goes better but still isn't too crazy, will be with more boost though. Injectors are sitting at nearly 50% so there's some left in it.

Siphoned out the 98 from the tank tonight, missus has got a full tank now and I'll be filling mine up with E85 tomorrow. Will refit my 4 port boost solenoid tomorrow, have an appointment to pick up some ULX oil for an oil change before dyno work, will road tune the car before dyno to have a solid base to start from and have some brake pads to fit as well. I have a number I want to see, who's got their guesses? For the record it ran up 449awkw to start with last time, made 495 and ended up with 470. We should see a significant improvement with E85, so another 100kw overall would not be unreasonable

Well the car is back to the way it was last week before I took the trans out. It has another fresh filter, more fresh fluid and a billet flex plate, so that's good. It drives the same as it did last week, no surprises there. Got the car booked in for dyno time on Friday, just gotta frig around swapping the fuel over to E85 and refit my 4 port boost solenoid then it'll be ready.

Went fishing on Sunday, 7 yo daughter caught a Port Jackson shark and I caught one too. I reeled hers in for her, that was fun with one of those tiny kids rods lol

Too late for that, it's attached to the crank and has a trans covering it up now. If you go back through this thread and see a pic of my flex plate, you'll see that there's a bit that was damaged from the factory. I just went around the whole thing and evened it up. I am pretty decent when it comes to being neat with a grinder, it will actually be miles better than it was before.

Out with the na trans and back in with the built trans. Just gotta do the usual buttoning up but I'll do that later or tomorrow, got a couple of sick kids that need some looking after for now. Also unwelded my stock flexplate, balanced my atomic flex plate with a grinder and fitted that cos I don't think the stock unit would have lasted with it making more power.

Yes, anticlockwise aka upwards, unless you are removing your trans with the car on it's roof.

Push the connector tab upwards. Give it a tap with something if you need to get it moving, but usually you can just thumb it up there. It gets tight at the top too, so do it in one hit.

Was gonna drop the trans this afternoon after soccer. Got a case of CBF and did housework instead. I need a break from it anyway. Not a territory but a 4x4 so similar, I retimed my Landrover this afternoon. I wanted more timing but the dizzy was all the way cranked. I moved each plug lead around the dizzy one position and then moved the dizzy back a whole bunch. I gained 45 degrees of potential timing from the plug movement, 360/8 cos it's a V8 etc. It might have had 8 degrees of timing before and now it's around 18 base. It goes heaps better and sounds angry lol. I will get it on the dyno and dial it in properly soon. I'm guessing it'll make 85awkw but we'll see.

You forget whom you address sir

Yeah nah

Ftfy

Answers are: 1. Don't undo those ones, undo the other ones. Leave the rubber donut attached to the tailshaft. 2. Through the starter motor hole. 3. Undo that bolt for the black bracket on the trans. From there you can lever the lines out from the trans. Move them to the side, no need to undo the heat exchanger side to remove the trans. Those quick connects are easy to undo though, spray them with WD-40 and move them back and forth a few times, then you can undo them by hand. There's probably a tool for it, I know you can get quick connect tools for fuel lines etc. Google is your friend

There's two questions there mate, learn to count

Yeah nah yeah nah yeah nah yeah nah yeah? Or nah?

Indubitably. Here's a pic from Tuesday

Roll racing ticket acquired, plans to put the car on E85, dyno to get the tune dialled, fingers crossed it all works out. I'll be as sensible as I can be with the power level, I'm thinking around 900whp should be nice and safe