kawerx

no,you can get currant in the water.evey time we buy a radiator it comes with instructions on how to test for it.its real and its out there man!

capa recomend bkr6e11 gapped to 0.8mm these are a group 2 plug at about $4 ea. iridiums about $20ea I think iridiums last a LOT longer though

Sorry mate, its funny hearing someone trying to explain electrical principals. Sounds like someone has been feeding you Entertaining though ← ask a radiator joint about stray currant.usualy comes from a bad earth on one or more eletrical curcuits.any more than .5 volts can be a problem. spoke to our radiator suplier about a stock BA xr8 which had gon through 5 radiators.fixed by fittin a copper core radiator and running earth straps from the radiator to the chassis.

autoxtras in tullermarine(vic) are working on hard lids for fords with central locking also. you can find their add for canopys in the trading post.

that's rotten.how can they get it so wrong so often? I think they may give you some bull reason why they dont have to give your money back. I dont think the tech guys at the dealers are given the time they need to find/fix and then retest such problems.all about time and money. I'd love to be a fly on the wall on tuesday.watch them squirm.good luck.you will need it.

its called a phantom

Dont bother with Tectaloy Steve - walk into Coventrys and ask for the Ford coolant for a BA XR6T. You will get a 500mL (I think its 500mL..) bottle of genuine Ford coolant concentrate. You simply add the concentrate, and then add distillled water. Ross ← this does not sound right!ford recomend 33% or 50% for extreme climates.500ml is not enough.sounds like a corosion inhibitor not a coolant. ← No - it is coolant. Also it is 500mL of CONCENTRATE - not 500mL of premix (Eg. Tectaloy). This is why you only require 500mL. Ross ← does not add up!IMO does it raise the boiling point and lower the freezing point like other glychol based coolants?

thanks heaps guys!just the sort of stuff I was after.it sounds like you would only be busted if they had to get you for something(being a d**khead) think I will go 18 or 20% on next car.

its all in your owners handbook

Dont bother with Tectaloy Steve - walk into Coventrys and ask for the Ford coolant for a BA XR6T. You will get a 500mL (I think its 500mL..) bottle of genuine Ford coolant concentrate. You simply add the concentrate, and then add distillled water. Ross ← this does not sound right!ford recomend 33% or 50% for extreme climates.500ml is not enough.sounds like a corosion inhibitor not a coolant.

A few Ba's are getting stray currant(volts in the watar) this can chew through radiators and heater cores in a mater of weeks.

yes ther is a drain plug.no you dont have to take the fans off(on a standard car,dont know if you can reach it with all that top gear on your ute). I recomend you flush with clean water 3-4 times as there is always water trapped in the system(heater,in the block ect). in between flushes I run the car up to operating temp, to ensure the thermostat is open, to get water flow though the system.then drain.Repeat. I think the Ba takes closer to 10 litres of coolant. I can casrol concentate at 50% ok so far.

what window tints are people using? I dont care about the metal crap effecting radio reception. I think 35% is the darkest legal tint. has anyone been put off the road for being too dark. I dont mean in an old cortina but in a new car? Is it the lower the numbers(18%) the darker the tint?

you may be on to something with the throttle. I dont think ford would be negative about working on a modded car.many of them are car nuts too. If no luck at ford try and find a good workshop that does efi diagnosing and repairs. many workshops now have scan tools able to read the CAN set up on the BA's. dont be scared to ask a few questions.find someone who is not going to just start changing parts.make sure you tell them what you have already changed or checked. it is possible tps has gone again.I think there is another thread tonight about this on another T.

If you are going to scan for codes why not plug it in and take it for a drive as mercuryT did.you can learn a lot from a scanner.most of them log data so when the car plays up you hit a trigger button and it has already recorded the data. return to the workshop and look at the data just before the trigger.BINGO. it will give you pressures,temps,rpm,throttle position and much more.

I dont think it will look quite like that. I think it will look more like an audi A6 in the rear glass, quarters and tail.

a well equiped workshop may be able to help. just changing parts will be expensive.

oops. I meant spot on. $2000 at 200:1 very tempting

sounds like ignition. I could be wrong.

How many kays? what plugs?plug gap? another member just han a similar problem with hid T.it would break down at about 2500-3000rpm as it came on boost. ford diagnosed fuel pump,changed it,no differant. turned out to be a coil pack. check for damadged wires going to the coil packs.

are the gtech units as accurate as they claim? 0.1sec

looks awsome! make sure you check you oil!

yeah your right.but I dont think its in the tune if it comes and goes? when does it happen?

maybe try an efi expert.it may take a couple of days.you need to take the car to them when it plays up. does it play up on factory tune? describe more about when it does it and what happens,how does it feel?