rollex

If the plates are bent am I going to know about it?

Take up point is 1cm off the ground and he has given up and said come pick the car up. What do I do?

Apparently it would not engage reverse unless you turned the car off and first was hit and miss.

Did you have issues getting the crush/take up point like the mechanic I am using is? Or is the issue the mechanic?

Any issues with it?

Please explain ?

Apparently they only put extreme clutches in so this is the first time the mech has had to do anything different I think they like doing cookie cutter setups so they don't have to try new things. I still can't believe they hadn't heard of ID1000 injectors.

Well he has done countless boxes before so I'd hope he knows how to bleed a clutch, surely they would have a vac pump anyway.

Seemed pretty confident that was not the issue. Oh well.

He said it was measured at 16 and would engage on the floor, added a spacer and it doesn't feel much better. I told him to call the NPC guy as NPC said adding spacers won't change the pickup point anyway. Why wouldn't adding spacers move the pickup point? Surely if you space the entire slave out then it has an offset once it starts pushing? Sigh.

Just had the NPC installed, had to take the box out and add another spacer as their instructions say between 14 and 17mm crush, had it at 16 and clutch would engage on the floor and couldn't get it into reverse unless you stalled the car and started it in reverse. Glad I paid someone to do it as f*ck doing the job twice myself. Going to pick it up tomorrow morning so will report back how it drives.

I don't trust anyone these days when it comes to engine building, so many horror stories and seen the sort of stupid mistakes builders who make motors every day make. just buy another short block second hand, can't go wrong with the ford seal of approval. So many "pros" who build 1 motor a month lunch things these days. The guy who built the motor at ford probably builds 10+ a day, always going to end up with a higher quality build from the factory as there are so many things you can f*ck up imo.

I agree perhaps just take the car to a reputable place that is interested in looking at it for you

What is causing the motor to stop making power, is it air temps getting too hot and the tune is pulling timing? Is the engine pinging if you add more boost and the tuner is simply limiting boost to stop this? Is it running lean and causing pinging? Need to know exactly what the limiting factor is, ask your tuner what it is. Lean fuel? intake temps? or just simply pinging with good air temps and rich air to fuel ratios, not pinging but just wont make power? the latter two will be hard to diagnose but if it is either of the first two then you know where to start looking. Lean: Look at injectors, fuel pump etc. Air temps: could be something simple like a rag stuck in the intercooler piping. etc

Knock sensor failure will absolutely put the car into limp mode. Not sure if that code means sensor failure or high knock detected, if it means the latter then get someone else to re-tune the car as the limp mode is it trying to stop you blowing it up.

If you use the standard computer (easiest way to get the auto working) you will need to transplant pretty much everything from the car or it will not start, being an old car this will be a huge headache as you have kilos and kilos of loom and modules that just are not necessary for an older car. If you run an aftermarket ECU you will not need to transplant much more than the engine/turbo/intake and can run whatever sensors you want, personally this is what I would do as there is just so much stuff you would need to transplant, also means you can make your own simple loom from scratch. The issue with this is your automatic transmission will not work so you are better off going either manual or an automatic box from another car that can easily be run from an ECU. If the car is going to be a daily there are some 3 and 4 speeds that you could easily get a custom bellhousing adaptor for, otherwise the manual would be the easiest option. Any new ECU will do the job eg adaptronic etc are decent, much of a muchness. Personally I would ask whoever is going to tune the car what they prefer as this will make their life easier.

This will be a huge waste of time and money, just buy a turbo model from day one. Are you going to take it over the pits when done to get it registered as a turbo? I do not know why anyone would bother.

Everyone who goes twin turbo uses 2 of the same sized turbos so you don't' get any benefits over a single anyway. Twin turbos are only better if you go compound or 1 small 1 large turbo, however if you don't size them properly you end up with all sorts of issues, subaru liberties for examples have a big dip between the second turbo coming on with millions of dollars of tuning put into the car. The only benefit from going twin turbo of the same size is you get the twin scroll turbo effect due to putting 3 cylinders through each turbo, this can improve spool slightly. Though if this was the only reason for doing twin turbo you could just get a twin scroll single turbo which is almost as good as twins. Twins will have huge amount of piping that has to be custom made and will most likely look ugly as you don't have that much room, not to mention you then need to do funky stuff with the air metering and filters or try and combine them back into one intake. So for a huge outlay of cash you end up with a cluttered engine bay that costs a dikload and offers minimal advantages. This is not true at all, twin identical sized turbos don't offer any real advantages at all over a single. Where did you get the idea of high rev power gains? That is purely to do with turbo sizing and not if you run 1 or 2 turbos, if you ran twin gt25 turbos you would choke the motor and have peak power at 3k, it is the compressor/turbine maps that determine your power curve not the number of turbos. edit: If you have an NA car just sell the damn thing and buy a turbo, unless of course you like burning money. Converting a non turbo to turbo is super expensive, will not be as good as the actual turbo car (brakes along with all the other options etc) and then you get all the registration issues, eg it requires a full inspection to be legal however if you've added any mods they won't pass it now. Sell it and buy a turbo car that someone else has already tipped money into, buy their money pit and it will only cost you a few grand instead of 20+

Almost ticked over 190,000, with new bushes all round it drives close to a new car, only thing I notice compared to a low km model is the gear syncros are a bit harsher.

I'll see how I go. Also now I know why bruce is so cheap, the total bill was a lot less than the sum of all the items! LOL

I don't slap the gears or do clutch kicks. He basically said is it going to be a track/drift car, if so then we can make an alloy one up for you otherwise the stock one is fine.

NPC said they find they are fine as long as you don't go racing the car on the track or doing clutch dumps regularly.

Good call, bruce only wants ~350 to do it, said he has a spare stock muffler as well I can have for free. Winning.

Anyone recommend anyone to do this job in Adelaide? I'm guessing performance shops will charge a premium, I might even call up a ford dealership and see what they say.

I've got between 300 and 338 depending on the dynos. I don't really dump the clutch at all and it is a daily driver.