rollex

Going to stick with ROTAs from what I've seen, cheers. unsure of offset though, 8.5 at front and 9/5/10 at rear, with +30 and +35 ? Will that stick out the guards? Can I fit 9s on the front? I've heard conflicting reports.

Someone actually did that on SAU

I've spent years in the nissan scene hence why I keep comparing, just trying to get my head around the way tuning etc works in the xr6 arena as it seems quite different.

I am getting an SCT and getting it tuned by someone, I can then buy HP tuners if I want but probably won't due to the price. Not sure why you are getting annoyed? I'm just asking questions to learn, sounds like you need a hug.

A corporate nistune license was also well over $1k, Xcal software etc obviously are designed for tuning houses so it is fair to expect the $5-10k or whatever licensing is, for a single car customer license that is limited it would be reasonable to expect that you could get a license for under $1k, it seems as though they don't cater for the average joe and all their pricing is aimed at workshops that will make a profit out of their software. Nistune for example recognise there are at home tweakers and hence sell a simple license for $200 that can only be used on 1 car. What do you mean? It will add fuel etc to stop it pinging, or it will not pull 14 degrees for some reason and will continue to ping?

Absolutely, some cars run widebands from the factory and do this. I guess my point is there is no harm in not limiting it, so why put a limit in place? The issue is trimming has lag time, so an open loop tune is obviously better, I'm just asking purely from a point of curiosity. There are ECU packages that offer auto tune though, where you put in desired afr at all the load points and it will tune the cell to suit, pretty cool providing you give it some half decent numbers to start with.

Interesting so the closed loop will only trim a max of 25%? I wonder why it is limited, I know other implementations will just trim forever and just raise an alarm (check engine light etc) if it has to trim excessively.

Yeah normally it is from a tune without enough buffer, extra load due to getting awesome traction and high IAT from sitting idling in traffic on a hot day. 14 degrees retard would surely stop almost all pinging though yes? I mean for example my skyline which ran 15 degrees base timing barely ran more than 20 degrees at peak torque, pulling 2 deg out was severe enough let alone 14. What I'm getting at is providing the tuner didn't tune with knock retard enabled, and inadvertently had it retarding timing ALL the time, 14 degrees should mean it is almost impossible to blow a donk up due to detonation yes? I made a thread about HP tuners vs XCAL recently, I think once I get my car tuned I will consider getting HP tuners, however at $1k it is a bit expensive, nistune for the skylines is only $200 edit: Team viewer is awesome, I use it to log into my work pc -> vm -> into random control systems at work via my phone when I'm away from work and get asked to change something important.

The cranking maps are open loop that's why, but normally even if it is massively rich/lean it will still eventually start, it will just take ages, then the closed loop kicks in and sorts things out.

So... any answers to my post?

Is NPC7442-3 the 410kw option?

NPC heavy duty coppermix 11inch $1386 inc gst for the complete kit (NPC7442-3), NPC said it will hold 350rwkw fine. vs malwood option 3 / 3+ closer to ~$1850 I don't think the car will see much over 350rwkw, would the NPC kit NPC7442 suffice?

If it is that simple I'll ask the tuner if he will do it for free.

Captain I believe delay time would be like a deadband, eg it keeps the retard at x degrees for that amount of time, if no knock is detected it adds the retard back to the timing. Recovery rate would be how many degrees it "recovers" each delay time seconds. I imagine each time "knock" is detected it increases retard by 1 degree as there is no table to specify how much it pulls each event, perhaps it is multiplied by how bad the detected knock is. How is my guess ralph? 14 degrees of retard at peak torque is a sh*tload, that should stop even the worst pinging, if you've got a lean out bad enough to still ping with 14 degrees taken out then I doubt the car will even be running. Do you agree? I know in old nissans they disabled knock detection over 5500 rpm as the amount of engine noise they make they could no longer reliably detect knock, old motors with rattling heads and noise from the bottom end due to forged pistons etc may also generated false knock readings. Personally I am of the opinion you should do your tune with knock detection turned off and with knock ears on your head so you know if it is knocking, then when everything is finished turn knock detection back on, confirm it isn't active all the time, then save the tune. Otherwise how do you know if your tune is only working because the knock detection is pulling timing constantly? you definitely don't want that, then you have no protection as the tune has been pulling the max knock retard the entire time. I would absolutely not be surprised if there are aftermarket tunes getting around that only work because of the knock detection.

Ok sounds like it may not crank but if it does run it may not trim enough to drive, I will almost certainly trailer it, was just curious. I might just sign up to RAA and get the "free" tow, I don't think they need to know my injectors have been swapped. I'll report back with if it does run just for lols. Thanks for the replies. Yeah there are lots of 2 runs of WOT tuners out there, I think the guy who tuned the car before I got it did that as it is rubbish. Probably a few hundred at least, installing injectors is easy, plus I've only ever done other cars so would like to learn my way around the 4L engine bay for future. A Saturday afternoon is free for me if I learn something out of it.

I don't understand why there would be a limit, surely if it keeps knocking the ECU would be more than capable of going "GOTO: sh*t bricks mode" where it pulls timing and fuel completely so you can't rev over 2k. If I ever designed an ECU that is what I'd do anyway.

Could you explain in more detail? It sounds like you set a knock retard degree limit, once it passes the knock retard limit if it is still knocking it will literally vent the block via a conrod punching a hole? By default what is this knock degree retard limit set at, 1,2,5,10 ? When is limp mode reached, what is required to go there aside from complete sensor failure, is knock ever considered a condition to go into limp mode?

Would consider rolling the guards if required. Also does staggered rims make the car understeer?

What size rota grid R should I get for a BF xr6 t that is 18"? I want the largest tyres I can fit without scrubbing or rolling the guards, would a 18x9.5 with a 245 front 265 rear fit ?

What model are these and how much did you pay?

Ok good that is relieving, I've blown up a few skyline boxes before and when the input shaft bearing goes (ALWAYS f*ckING GOES!!!) it sounds like marbles and gravel being flicked around in the box, similar noise the XR6 box makes though it is not as loud.

Do you guys know personally as a fact it wont start, eg you have tried yourself? Or you think it won't start, I thought the closed loop O2 control would sort the injectors out pretty quickly ? Reason I say this is my skyline with a primitive 1980s ECU had good enough closed loop control to run fine even loading it up (well out of closed loop afaik) and then went 8:1 rich as soon as you got any decent boost into it (massive black smoke and misfire). At idle and cruise there was no black smoke, missing or issues at all, literally as if it had come out the factory.

Anyone know what rims these are?

How good is the stadard knock detection, eg if my car has been tuned for 98 and I put 91 in it and it starts pinging hard, will the ECU pull back timing sufficiently to save the motor? Or does it simply put it in limp mode? What about if my fuel pump starts to fail and it pings it's tits off, will it save the motor and put it in limp mode, or does it have a maximum amount of timing it can pull back and if it still detonates after it has done this it will just blow it self up? What about with an XCAL SCT4, does this just utilise the stock knock detection, or does it implement something new, if so how does it work? Looking for any information at all. Thanks guys

So my BF XR6T I bought came with 20x35x245s on it, they are too big imo with the ride quality suffering and the tyre prices being astronomical for a size that doesn't even offer better grip over the stock rims. I'm looking at going back to an 18" rim but want something that I can fit a 265/35 or 245/40 on so would need to be about 9.5" wide with the correct offset. The car is purely a street car so looking for value over anything, don't mind if they are heavy and not forged. Can anyone recommend something else fairly cheap that looks alright in this sort of size? Currently looking at rota grids (pic below) which are under $1k for a set.