exahsix

Sam, agreed about how much boost to leave off the line with. But let the auto do the changing. That takes another variable out of it. It will change at just the exact time - much better than selecting gears yourself. Select SSS mode but let the auto do the shift.

Guys I don't know that I agree with some of the comments re driver's skill reflecting 1/4 mile times. And I'm referring to autos in particular - manuals I agree skill comes into it a lot more. I would have thought the owner of the car knows the best setup for tyre pressures and what stall speeed he can get away with. In terms of going down the strip give the tyres a quick warm up, put it into SSS mode and stall it up to the correct revs. when you see the last amber, floor it and let er rip. The gearchanges are the same for everyone in an auto. I know people have different reaction times but that doesn't affect ET's. I just don't think that there's that much difference in the driver inputs at our level. Sure at the professional level where you've got tyre shake etc but not on 11-12 sec cars. Of course there's the driver weight difference..... In my opinion track conditions, temp, humidity, traction etc make the bggest difference. Anyway, back on topic hopefully I can post dyno sheet and timeslip next week when the car is back

Hey Hiddeous, now that you've got the Nizpro plenum on, can you sent me your old, unwanted Ford plenum - I want to do a little experiment. I'll pay for the postage.

Geez good job of stuffing up the hoses Ford. Looks like you'd have to TRY to put it together that badly!! I haven't replaced those rubber bolts that hold the crossover on. The hoses hold everything in place.

nup don't like it. Especially as a fellow black XR6T owner. The rest of your car is awesome but the scoop......it's a pooper scooper

Give Warren williams at Finrent a call 02 9959 5448 he will put you in touch with their car finance team. They did a great job on my car.

We just booked fiji for our honeymoon in August - same criteria as yourself. Found a resort that only has 11 huts and no kids.

Dammit I have to pull out of the drags because I have to go to Melbourne for work Tues and Wed. Not getting back till midnight Wed. Is that a good enough excuse fill? Upside is the tuner can have my car for a day longer and make sure all is perfect. So I'll be running at WSID 24th May instead.

Well done F6Bf - I am getting my car tuned on the Mon and Tues so will be looking to see how it goes on Wed 17th. Loving the private lane Idea. Get to meet everyone and have a chat about our cars.

Doesn't the phoon have a larger cat?

Flukeyluke - damn straight if I find a suspension joint that will fit them for $80 I will be getting it done there. But pedders will surely quote $800 so I'll have to dig around. Anyone in Sydney got a recommended place near Alexandria area?

Hey all I just picked up a set of lowered springs for the T and considering fitting thm myself. What tools are needed for the job? I assume just a set of coil spring compressors? If this is the case - can anyone lend me a set next week so I can do the job. Am located in Sydney. Will pick up and return.

Sam when you fit the intercooler you ought to get it retuned as the engine can now get cooler/denser air into it - and do it more consistently with less heat soak. I would say there will be MORE strain on the gearbox as you will put out more power. Wouldn't think there will be any difference to the valve springs.

Tops pics - love the Mandarin colour - sweet

I'd agree with Hiddeous above - the first thing you need to do is get the edit so that if you make significant changes to the exhaust - the computer doesn't go into limp mode. The stock system is twin 2.5 inch - which has the same cross-sectional area as a single 3.5 inch system - so the stock exhaust PIPES themselves have the ability to flow plenty good. The mufflers have been tested as not being greatly restrictive either so you're best off upgrading the cat to a more free-flowing cat and then upgrading either the mufflers or just the centre muffler. This should get you over the 300rwkw mark with other mods so it all depends on how far you wish to go.

Then there's the ballistic cat I just had fitted. Have a look at the sureflow exhaust website and see how much it flows according to tests. Might cost a bit more but it's the best.

wow you are going from ordering a T or phoon to getting an SC400? WTF? I can tell you from personal experience that you'll most likely be disappointed. I went from an SC400 to a T. Why? Because I had the V8 SC400 with all the hot-up bits (it was also the limited with Leather and EMS screen etc) and I took it to WSID only to run a high 15. What a slug. In terms of performance if I was to get another Lexus I'd get the twin turbo 6 instead - atleast they can get up and boogie!! "Having said that the SC400's are getting pretty old now - the CD's skip, the heaters don't work, the radio reception sucks because you need to fit an FM expander, the touchscreens are starting to go etc etc. Biggest drama is usually the suspension, especially if fitted with the air suspension. Anyway - the best forum for good advice is soarercentral - it is absolutely chockas with info and ask for Neil in the ACT if you want a good car. If you want a really good car get a T off someone on the forum that has spent the money to get all the good bits on it.

Yep agree with the comments above. I've had my mk1 '03 t for 6 months now after getting sick of my slow Lexus. This car is the best bang for buck ever and how easy is it to transform the performance with Edit!!!! No major issues with fit or finish or blowing anything up and it's got 97,000 kms on the clock. I am gonna thrash it for another few years....

yep love it - only problem is I've seen every episode atleast 5 times now. Same for Seinfeld. I guess that's what happens when you haave all the episodes on your hard drive as well muahahahaha

For another option tr sureflow exhaust out liverpool way. They do the 5" ballistic cat which is the best flowing cat out threre from what I could find out there. They also have their own dyno so you can do before & after power runs. Yes you will need edit if you significantly change the exhaust to make it flow heaps more.

I'll be there for sure - put me down. Be good to meet the other forum members in person and have a nag about our cars

the cleansweep can do 6 channels if needed but at $1000 I would say no way and get ASL to convert the head unit to RCA

Came across a product from JL audio today, the cleansweep http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_cleansw...php?page_id=193 Until now, summing filtered OEM audio signals has involved using products intended for other applications in creative ways (typically involving lots of cables, y-adaptors and other complicated means). Here is a better way... The CleanSweep® CL-SSI is the industry’s first dedicated signal summing interface and is easily configured to merge 2-way or 3-way OEM signals prior to sending them into a CL441dsp for response correction. This makes it the perfect choice for integrating with “premium” OEM sound systems that do not present full-range audio signals. This thing senses when the oem heasdunit turns on and it then turns your aftermarket amps on. Makes all the OEM signals into RCA signals to drive the amps. Sounds like bliss.

Fitted the APS intercooler yesterday - here's a guide for anyone considering fitting the same or similar aftermarket cooler. This is fitted to an 03 Mark 1 XR6T Auto. First thing you see when removing the grille is the location of the std cooler, the upper power steering cooler and the dual horns Upper pwr steering cooler Remove the front bar by undoing all the screws underneath and 3 in each front wheelwell as well as the two that hold it on at the front radiator support. Note the location of the lower power steering cooler. Remove the white eggshell plastic at the front you can see here - makes it easier to work on things. Remove all the clips and mounting bolts for the std intercooler. Remove all the mounting bolts for the upper and lower pwr steeing coolers and move them out of the way. Slide the std intercooler out and discard or sell on Ebay. The std piping from the exit of the intercooler can be discarded. This is attached to an aluminium pipe that winds under the headlight and battery, back to the crossover pipe. To remove this aluminium pipe, unbolt the headlight (4 bolts), then unclip the intake air temp sensor attached to the pipe and undo the mounting bolt/earth bolt. Now the pipe will slide out. Discard and immediately bolt those earth wires back on. Install headlight. Unbolt the sensor from the pipe and mount into the top of the APS intercooler. Now you will see some airconditioning pipes on the front left side. These will interfere with the intercooler so you need to bend them out of the way a bit to create clearance. Jack the car up a few inches, slide the new intercooler in and lift it into place, using the standard mounting holes already provided. The mounting brackets for the pwr steering coolers require a bit of modification to fit - they need to be reversed. I ground the sport welds that hold the nuts and botls into them off to make life easier but you could probably get away with just grinding the retaining nuts off. This is so the bracket can be reversed and used with the intercooler mounting brackets and bolts. Relocated the horn to just between the headlight and the cooler. Didn't have enough room for both horns. Extended the horn cable using the wire from both horns and solder. The bottom pwr steering cooler brackets were easy to modify. Hammer the tabs at the back of them flat. Drill an extra hole in each bracket to line up with the bottom cooler mounting holes. Attach to bottom of cooler. Now crawl around under the car fitting up all the hoses to the cooler and pipes etc. Get those hose clamps nice and tight. Extend the wiring loom for the intake air sensor from under the headlight, across the front bar to the top exit of the cooler where the sensor is now mounted. I just used 3 core electrical power wire as this sensor only has 3 wires. Cut the plug for the sensor off the original loom and re-solder to the end of the extension. As long as all your colours remain consistent you will be fine. To install the pipe that goes from the exit of the intercooler to the intake crossover pipe you will need to undo two exhaust manifold bolts and a bolt at the front of the engine. This has a star-type allen key pattern so you will most likely need to go to an auto shop to get a tool with this special head. Re-install the bolts once the pipe is there and do all your hose clamps up tight. Reinstall the front bar and grille. As the std snorkel from the radiator support panel needs to be removed (it fouls on the new pipe) you should install a CAI on your air box to ensure you're not sucking hot air on from behind the radiator. Now - retune and enjoy!!

Yep count me in. I'd say Drive to Melbourne from Sydney. Have a day/night to meet all the Melbourne forum members and have any Melbourne members that are coming to Tassie join us. I'd say the way home for Sydneysiders should be to catch the ferry direct back to Sydney. Too long a trip home to do Devonport/Melbourne/Sydney etc. 7 months gives me time to start burning appropriate cruise CD's woohoo