NathanB

The second wheel is billet alloy not cast like the stock unit. Honestly without the larger wheel and comp cover I've been told it's not worth the effort or time to replace the stock wheel.

Would you then recommend if doing it to then get it balanced after it's been re-assembled? And is that just the Chra itself? I did read that thread turbotrana where you did yours and it got me interested. If you look up billet gtx 3582r wheel you'll see that mamba and kinugawa and other Chinese suppliers sell the wheels and also comp covers with backplates. Probably 400-500$$ all said and done.

Have many people just smashed on a gtx style billet wheel and .7 4inch cover on their factory turbo? Or is it not the done thing? Seeing how cheap some of the billet wheels and covers are makes me curious

Lol wow what a joke. Yeah knowing markup now kills me anytime I have to get price on anything for my car. Especially ridiculous things like Kia Rio spark plugs at $50ea rrp iridiums....'pass me those Bosch double platinums over there please on staff'... haha also currently running the same Bosch platinum plugs in my xr right now. Couldn't say no for the price.

Having worked at a major auto parts store it's amazing what classifies as oem equivalent. Lol

In terms of swapping from b series to f series intake manifolds is there a huge difference in vac lines and/or fittings?

Seems odd that they're selling it at such a high price. That's a Johnny tig cooler (without piping) lol

Anyone used one of these before?? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252580250268 Never seen it before and I've been looking around for a while. Just curious to know if anyone has had experience with it. For the price I don't see the value but interesting none the less.

That sounds mad. Build thread and photos would be amazing

Yeah I'll be getting them through my mate very cheap that I used to work with so it is only the labour that hurts as I don't have the time or energy to do the big jobs like that. Next might be rear blade arms and ball joints/tie rod ends etc

Yeah I love it when you fix certain things only to find it doesn't really help the initial problem and if it does it potentially creates a new one. Now my diff mounts and engine and tranny mounts are mint the other bushes and potentially ball joints etc are now noticeably worn/bad

Did I read that this has been fixed up through@JETURBO already?

What's the story behind this build?? First car on p's and now want a turbo or was a cheap purchase and want to slap it all together. Might be worth chatting to those mentioned above and seeing if there are any other mods that would be more easily done whilst motor and box are out to make it stronger long term? But what sort of power are you chasing, just stock ATM I assume?? Would be great to see a build thread [emoji846]

Sounds infuriating mate. Hope you get it fixed though and are able to enjoy some time of smooth running

I was told that a tiny bit of movement along the shaft can be normal wear and tee depending on k's but not too worrying. However any lateral movement is instantly a cause for concern. Can anyone confirm if this is correct. Eg my old 200sx s14 with an sr20det had its original turbo and 130000+km and it had more movement than yours and I was told that was acceptable. However that was a journal bearing turbo though.

Wasn't Expensive Daewoo rumoured to be doing a v6 twin turbo or something??

Nice one! Any pics??

That looks awesome man. Are there any legal requirements around relocating a battery. Just as I know how hard it is having a modded car in east/south east suburbs in Melbourne I'd hate to get pulled up one night on princes hey going home if I copy this sort of thing. Haha

Haha always such good late night reading on here. Thanks for the info guys. Yeah always asked myself that when comparing Pw to nizpro to plaz etc. eventually I'll bite the bullet can't take much more of my current 55 degree intake temps when it's 18 degrees outside lol.

I keep reading conflicting info on which core type is better than the other. I would love for someone who has been through a few cores and types to go through real world applications as this is why I would buy one. I'm not one that is going to go down the quarter mile much if at all or to the track. So day to day driving is like to see my iat stay below 30-40 degrees if possible. So realistically is that effected more by pipe routing (no x-over pipe) or is it also to do with the efficiency of the cooler (especially at low speeds). Because I don't want to have to buy a Johnny tig or plaz 1000hp cooler if I don't have to (when I'm trying to be realistic about my goals)

Never a fan of the bf mk2.5 until I found this one. Slightly lower and clean.

Any updates? This car and engine will be a powerhouse. Very jealous

Any more news on your beast?

Did this end up happening so curious to hear results if it did

Pics and vids when it's done would love to see and hear it!