boost69

From experience sounds like a bent rod...even though the ticking doesnt sound too loud and quite harmless allot of times it hides something much more sinister...if it is a bent rod and you keep driving it hard you will literally knock a hole in side of the block...I have seen this happen on my brothers car...you will literally be picking up pieces of piston and block casting off the road...get a compression test done so you can at least eliminate or verify that possibility...hope you get it sorted it out...

Regardless if the car is stock then it will be covered under warranty unless the damage was caused because you were trying to mount a curb etc and broke something...(unlikely I know but if it was an ex police car this wowuldnt be so unlikely...) Just make sure that if you have had oil leak from the tranny that it is topped up...

If the car is stock it will be very hard to damage it due to overboost mostly because if it does overboost it will go into limp mode... Usually the turbo will make unhealty noises if it is on the way out...but you wont feel any vibrations as such...

I have one in the boot on the left side...its an ex chaser so im not sure if its a Ford thing or a Police after market thing...if you want photos let me know...

Guys on cold starts ups there is a vibrating noise comming from under the bonnet near the tubo...when car warms up the noise goes away...the turbo boosts properly and makes no noise on boost etc... How can I pinpoint where the noise is comming from...if the turbo bearings were worn etc...would the turbo make a noise until the oil warms up etc... Anyone else had this problem??

I have the same bracket and I can tell you its not going anywhere...otherwise Police Fleet Managament would have taken it off...I think its the bracket that the front camera is anchored to...

The BF ones are also $79.20 each + GST...

Mine is a Nov 06 BF Mark II XR6T too...its an ex highway car...bought it two years ago for 19K...still had around 18 months warranty on it...bought it from Fowles Auctions in Sydney...will definately be upgrading to the FG XR6T ex chaser when they hit the auctions...

that's what I do after some hard braking I just put the handbrake up and put the car in neutral and take the foot off the brake...

I have got DBA 4000 series slotted with Bendix Ultimates at the moment and mine still shudder...and apparantly they are rated at 650 dedegrees celcius...to be honest I have just accepted that they are going to have to shudder...though im not sure if its because of the disc warping or the transfer layer of brake material not being applied evenly hence causing uneven wear...I have cleaned wheel hubs before installing the rotor and have followed the bedding in procedure but still slowly and gradually the shudder comes back...has anyone that has had this problem actually permanently fixed it???...If so let us know how you did it...

I use the Ford factory ones in mine...but mines stock standard...from memory the ones I got for my BF were already pregapped at .80....actually the Motorcraft ones are made by Denso which is a Japanese company...from what I have heard Denso are used on allot of factory turbo cars like the WRX...

Changed the O2 sensor but the idle problem is still there...not sure if the computer needs time to recognise the new sensor...though I am noticing my average litres/100KMH has significantly improved... I might try my fuel filter next as this needs changing anyway... Any ideas are welcome guys...

Do a search for Ford O2 sensor on ebay...I found a seller that sells the (NGK NTK)ones...mine got delivered today and it has NTK and the Ford logo engraved on it...it was arounf $70 delivered...

Thanks mate just ordered one...does anyone know if the pre cat O2 sensor is the same as the post cat O2 sensor?

Guys I rung around and was quoted $107 for an NGK O2 sensor... f-wolf I read your link and I know of the problem with the TPS on the BA and im quite sure this TPS unit was changed on the BF model...I have also experienced the TPS problem on my borthers BA with the revs going up and down and the car even staling at the lights etc...though my revs dont go up and down etc...my whole car starts to shake at the lights but revs are constant...im not doubting that it still could be a TPS problem but the TPS problem I have previously exprerienced on my brothers car felt quite diferent...at the end of the day its a process of elimination...I think you have a valid point regardless and I will check it out...

Sydney NSW...

Guys I got quoted $290 for the O2 sensor from Ford (the O2 sensor that sits between the turbo and cat)...is there anywhere alse you can get an O2 sensor?...Or does it need to be genuine...

My engine light isnt comming on but I guess it can still be faulty and not trigger off any codes?...My average fuel consumption is around 16.5L/100 which is quite high for a stocker...I might take your advice...and change it as I do have the tell tale symptoms of a faulty O2 sensor... Rough Idle and higher than average fuel consumption...

It used idle rough when the engine was still cold then by the time it wamred up it idled smooth...now its gotten progressivley worse where it idles rough even when its warm...

Im siting on about 115,000KMS...(plugs changed with genuine plugs at around 105,000KMS) The car performs well all through out the rev range with no hessitation or flat spots or missfires etc...its as soon I stop at a traffic light you notice the car shaking...appart form that there are no other symptoms...

Fair enough its the stock Denso Motorcraft plugs I have in the car...I was told by the Ford parts guy that they are pregapped to 0.8mm...maybe he didnt know what he was talking about...but the plugs I was given were for a BF Mark II XR6T...the same plug model number that came out of my car went into my car...though I am contemplating getting another new set all together and see if that makes any difference to my idle problem...

Guys my car idles very rough and in my attemt to solve this problem I have done the following... Changed the plugs standard Motorcraft plugs (they are gapped at 0.8mm)...as my car is stock as a rock... I have cleaned the throttle body and also used the Subaru Upper Engine Cleaner (this didnt fix my idle problem but the car does seem more eager to accelerate...) Should I be looking at cleaning injectors and changing petrol filter???

If your gears werent slipping etc...then you should have had enough oil from what I know...why dont you call C&V as they do tranny oil flushes with new pan and filter...

Most likely blew a CV joint or you busted up your pinion gear in your diff...though its all specualtion until you jack the car up and have a look...

For those that have used this stuff...where do you spray into the intake from? The BOV hose? Or did you guys take off the the whole intake and spray through the throttle body?