Antisocial

Same for me.

I would not recommend using a grinder. It sends sparks EVERYWHERE I once set a car on fire with a grinder. You will damage the headlining, upholstery, dash trims you will even pit the windows. Try and find a metal fabrication place with some hydraulic cutting shears…..or buy a helmet and pay the insurance, or swap the car for one without a cage.

Yep 6 'gold plated' plugs $73 plus gst....

Just had the 60,000 service done on the Hoffoon and noticed I was stung for new plugs. Asked the service manager why as I never had to chenge them on the previous XR6T. Sure enough in the owners manual it says the spark plugs need changing every 30,000k, was news to the service manager too......I checked when back at home and they didn't change them back at the 30,000k service. Do they need to be changed at 30 or 100k intervals on the BF F6's or even the povo XR6T's? Why are they different I wonder? Seems the more you pay the less you get....

Especially if its the same Cerberus that bought Chrysler, which co-owns this albatross with GM....

.....rain? No the Carbon fibre directs the water towards the radiator header tank and the heat shield over the turbo.

I have finally finished my bonnet....and a few guys have asked about it, so here are the what, when, whys. I got the idea about 3 years ago when I still had my 2002 XR6T, first I had to find a bonnet to modify, I got one for $150 that had been replaced with a fibreglass bulging XR8 replica. Then it took me another few months to find a suitable damaged but not completely stuffed Peugeot 206 GTi bonnet. This cost another $150. After numerous fruitless trips to Sydney to see bonnets that were stuffed or 'still ok to repair' all I can say is French car people are very odd folk. My original plan was to use the black plastic vent from the Pug, I even bought one from the local dealership for another $48. I was concerned it would not be up to the job as I then discovered it is only used as a fresh air inlet for the cabin in the 206, and segregated from the engine compartment and I did not know if it could cope with the heat from the turbo. Anyway I made a cardboard template to position the vent as far back and across as possible but to clear the inner parts of the vent from the under bonnet stuff like the rad overflow bottle and crossover pipes. I then cut the outer skin of the bonnet with a Dremel tool. I Cut out the vent section of the Pug and positioned it on the underside of the bonnet and carefully welded it in place, with my mig a spot at a time then cooling it with a wet rag. This process took a month, of an half hour every now and then. At the time I had 2 small boys aged 2 ½ and 4 so spare time is pretty much non existent. Anyway I wanted to take my time so as not to warp the metal of the bonnet skin. The grille dilemma was solved when a elderly blind man driving his crappy XE through a red light tore the front off my car. The plus side of this was that I could use the mangled lower grill to do the job, a saving of over $600 from the insane ford spares dept, rather than the plastic pug vent. I cut the F6 grill into 3 sections with the Dremel again, I only used 2 I trimmed them to size and bent the outer edges to shape. Then I just trimmed off the outer mounting points for the plastic pug grill from the underside of the bonnet and welded 2 threaded mounts between the two openings to secure the centre of the 2 sections of the F6 lower grill. As this was the first time I had ever attempted such a task, the only mistake I made was not to notice that the pug bonnet has a much greater curvature front to back than the BA. This meant that the new bonnet has pulled in a bit at the back of the vent. Once welded to the pug insert. No one else has noticed this unless I have pointed it out, but its still visible. If I were to make another I would cut slits in the inner skin of the pug bonnet so it would conform to the BA shape, then once in place weld up the slits. Or perhaps do away with the inner pug bits altogether and fabricate all the mounting points for the F6 type grill. But I would still need the cutout from the pug bonnet to get the neat curved edges to the opening also adding strength to the opening. I then cut out a small section of carbon fibre, from a traded machine at work to stop water getting onto the brake master cylinder and clutch reservoir, but still with enough clearance that it let the heat out. The only down side is the heat shimmers get a bit annoying when stopped at traffic lights but I can live with that. Now each night in the garage, when you check under the bonnet, the engine block is the only thing that is still warm after about an hour. Compared with before the vent was fitted everything under there was still too hot to touch 3 hours later.

I have a BAII 6 speed manual Lightning strike...........F6, plenty of them about too.

Better be quick ...the 'for the shareholders' NRMA is scrapping the vehicle inspection service this month.

Toyota already make performance RWD cars. But they all have a Lexus badges on them. Fwd's are a cheaper more space efficient car for the masses. From what I have read of the Aurion its chassis is worse than the XR6 or Dunnydoor S, and the TC cannot be turned off. So the car cannot really be driven in an enthusiastic manner. I suspect this is probably why TRD has had to do so much development work to make the supercharged one .......acceptable. It will appeal to the same customers who think a Camry sportivo is a performance car. Another point is that the car will probably at the maximum of its 'drivability' limits (not durability) out of the box. Whereas the XR6T or F6 can have another $3k to $10k spent and get an extra 80 to 150kw and still be driveable and reliable. I doubt the Toyota would do the same. Also FWD cars like an old Laser obliterate the front tyres in no time at all, doing all the acceleration, steering and most of the braking. Can you image how many K's you'd get from a 250kw fwd.

Normal...thermosiphon...try a search, or look in your owners manaul.

A pic from an old ZF truck truck tansmission for sale on ebay.

I would not be concerned about a toyota with compressed fuel injection. My 3.0L TD was a pain in the ar$e.... however if it wasn't then I would not have gone out and bought a brand new 6sp turbo xr6 My mates 3.0L GU was also a pain in the ar$.... however if it wasn't he woulf not have put a 6.5L diesel V8 in it A 3.0L diesel is just way to small for a 2.5 tonne vehical. ← My 3.0L GUII was brilliant and worked faultlessly for the 95,000ks I owned it. Toyota is alway last to the market with almost every new technology. Prado CRD turned up last year 6yrs after it came out in the Patrol and Navara. They now sell the same car as a 4cyl Camry that uses more fuel and has less grunt than the 6 cyl Avalon, sorry Aurion. Didn't even get their super dooper Hybrid cars to the market first, Honda beat em by about a year. They are all about marketing. Hoiw many toyota adds do you see each day? If you want a car with tried and proven technology, that everybody else had in the previous decade then buy a Toyota.

A lot of the stuff from overseas is cr@p though. At the end of winter the Mrs bought each of our 2 boys some gum boots. I got up her cause one pair was made in china. She said they were the only ones that would fit him. Now get this.. The ones for the 3 year old have a picture of an elephant on them but are made in Australia. The ones for his 4 year old brother have Koala's on them but are made in china. They both cost the same price!!! After 3 months the chinese ones are all cracked and splitting on the outside and the linning on the inside is coming away so he cant even put them on himself. The Aussie ones are still going strong.

Nice car Rob, suits you..... Don't let all that Boss V8 grunt, spread from 3800rpm all the way up to 5000rpm get you into trouble.

...so Ford would be the last place to take your car then...

I would argue the exact opposite. I have tried driving at night with the ‘foglights’ on in addition to the headlights and even high beams. All they do is illuminate the area immediately in front of the car, up to 5m away. This reduces the eyes ability to discern objects further away, and make it harder to see pedestrians and roos on the roadside. Reducing your chances to stop in time. When driving at 110 or even 60km/h. So if you travel everywhere at about 10km/h, then by all means light up those foggies.

Ok I have 2 questions... 1 I read somewhere else on here of a few guys having problems with changes in the T56 AFTER changing to Transmax Z.... I find the T56 in my F6 dificult to change gears in the morning, particularly when the temp has been below zero overninght. I was going to use Transmax Z until I read of the dramas other were having, I have since bought some Redline ATF, but have not put it in yet. I can use the redline in my other car so what do you recomend? 2 The shift quality on my F6 was crap when it was new, then with the replacement lutch it was brilliant. After a while it got worse, then they bled the clucth when they had to replace all my pedals (check engine light). After that it was great again. It has slowly been getting worse especially when changing into 5th. I notice that the fluid in the clutch master is very dark brown. I remember folk complaining of 'clutch mud' in the 5 speeds. Something to do with the heat from the turbo turning the hydraulic fluid to crap... Is this also an issue with the T56?

And Mick has left out the most important fact...its not even his Territory. But when Kirsty finds out what you have done to her car, its sure as hell gunna be your problem. Wonder if you will walk with a limp....with a boat trailer shoved up your @rse....

Not so cheap in the end........ $4000.01

The red Konis' are the 'cheaper' ones aren't they?? The Yellows have the adjustable knob, as do Brians', as per his post pix ← that's what I was getting at, in his original post SausageD said he was quoted $1500 for a set of Koni sport, these would be the externally adjustable ones not the "remove to fiddle' red ones Zip_F6 has for $1250 with springs. As I understand it there a 3 levels of Koni's. 1 Special Red, remove from car to adjust, designed to compensate for wear over time.. 2 Sport, Yellow, externally adjustable with giant knob (no not solean) on the top. However, hard to fit on the BA/BF as on the fronts the PCM and rad overflow in the way. Then inner boot lining trim in the way on the rear. 3 Money no object type ones as fitted to BCL's car with little knob on the bottom of the dampers outside the car. But I could be wrong.....but probably not.

Zap are the Koni's you have Red or Yellow in colour?

....well that's time well spent eh.

I'l let you know. I'm gunna test the speed of my rc helicopter this arvo. ← So how short is the range of the thing, was the clown decapitated by his own RC helicopter today?

Yeah why not....