xrdreaming

12.518

Yep thanks for the help guys, the front bar is off now, the APS intercooler looks mighty fine under there. It was very easy to do.

Thanks guys, so are there any bolts from the wheel arch side or does it just unclip from the sides?

Hi all, I am having a better auto trans cooler fitted tomorrow and as part of the deal I have told them that I will remove the front bar so they can just fit the cooler. I keep hearing it's not that hard to do, obviously disconnect the driving lights and so forth and I know how to get he top grill with the ford logo out, but can anybody help me with how many bolts there are to remove the actual bar and roughly where they are located and how to get to them. Thanks in advance, Dean

See, I could have bought an N/A and saved myself a few grand!

Are you sure it's not your bottom end, conrod maybe? Sounds a lot like it. Loud bang, lots of oil and crap on the road, instant loss of oil pressure, have you stuck your head under the block to have a look? I would be checking the bottom of the block and sump around number 1 cylinder (Bottom front of motor) for starters as the engines that have failed tend to go there.) I hope it isn't but it sure sounds like it to me. If your engine has blown the good news is that there is a very fine mesh on the turbo oil feeds that will stop engine particles fouling the turbo so it should be ok. Good luck with it and let us know how you go.

I'm not getting in the back with the video camera for that trip Craig, your on your own. Looks good Brian

Yeah I did the black plastic lugs myself too. I painted them phantom cause I have some spray paint for them. I lost one though and I couldn't be bothered getting the spray gun out for 1 plastic plug so I just painted it with the little bottle of touch up paint from Ford and I'll be stuffed if I can notice the difference.

See now if only it would fit the ute, the colour is perfect.

Well I don't want to spoil it but I am sure I am doing the right thing with the numbers but it's tell me the numbers are wrong so I am stuck

Wow that's fully MDF

Thankyou Professor Julius Sumner Geea

Speaking of the grill mesh, I like the top section, did you just buy mesh and do it, and if so where from? Well done on the look of the car, I like what you have done.

I am with Julian, the APS car at 307 was all over the runway at Avalon, at 400kph you would need a new aero kit to give you enough down force to keep it on the road! It is coming along great Brian, congrats on the numbers you are finally getting after all of this time.

I am not sure about the MkII T56 but the auto was the way to go with series I. The T5 won't hold the phase III power for long, nor will the auto. $700 won't get the auto strong enough either for any length of time. It will get your line pressures increased, however you will certainly need a trans oil cooler and Kevlar bands and better clutches if you don't want to be rebuilding the box every six months or so with fresh bands and clutches. Allow about $2000-$2500 for the auto mods. If you want Phase III power levels of 300rwkw + then that is what it will take. I think you will find that APS would also recommend putting a few thousand k's on the engine before fitting your Phase III kit.

From this day forward he shall be forever known as "The Man" (Who was to chicken to every get in the ring with Danny Green) The girl ran for 2 years and now he has nowhere else to hide he wants to play league again.

Mal Woods is your man, has done auto to manual conversions, I sat in one at the Expensive Daewoo V Ford show and the box felt great.

Most likely unburned fuel.

Guys I installed mine in my ute and it is fine with no background whine, exept in the audio aux which is normal for these BA Falcons but the cd and radio are fine. My amps are behind my passengers seat with two subs across the back, splits in the front and cadence speakers in the rear. I have used stinger line level convertors and my earth comes from the seat mounting bolt under the passengers seat. Direct power off the battery and remote power from the fuse box to an acc power fuse. I have not driven my rear speakers through the amps though, only the front splits and the subs, Maybe try that earth point or disconnect your rear speakers and see if that makes a difference? Just trying to throw up ideas to help out.

No I am not doubting you mate, I am glad yours works well, I will get mine soughted soon.

that's interesting, mine goes straight into limp mode if I try and stall it up. The difference between manual mode and auto is amazing though as far as reving up goes. I have a friend who also goes into limp mode with a 3000rpm non lock up stall same as mine.

You will need an edit or limp mode will be the result. Trust me I have had a stall for 2 months now and can't use it yet. I know of 2 other T's with stalls that do the same thing. Anything above 2750rpm will cause this.

Have you had an edit done? Cause there are plenty of people in Melbourne who have high stalls but the car goes into limp mode if you try and stall it up with your foot on the brake

A "Kit" is more than 1 mod