BRK

Mate, I live in WA so I have no stake in anything east - and it is always your call and your money but, have a real hard look thru the build threads and site sponsors along with the amount of useful tech info businesses share with us. You go with who you think, of course, but people who tell you what worked and did not and get consistent and reliable power out of these cars is where you head. Short list starting to happen right now. BTW, the cat and dump will need to go and you will need to modify the airbox - F6 type snorkel will suffice. Although others succeeded to get a consistent 300rwkw with the f6 cooler, I did not (intake temps too high.) 300 at the wheels is great - just a heap of fun for, really, stuff all bux.

The manifold issue can be checked with some intake gaskets so any alignment issues can be easily seen. I suspect it will fit most aftermarket heads. The valve clearance on the bores is another matter and that I cannot answer without a physical inspection. You probably know but - - Compression is another issue as well - the combustion chambers in the yates heads are pretty small it seems, so your piston type will likely need to be a flat top with deck clearance to suit. Static compresson ratio of more than about 11:1 on 98 octane could be an issue unless you are running a cam with the right overlap and duration - plenty of choices but the small rollers go well (245/250 @ 50 thou and around 580/600 lift). Most hi power heads ( and the yates heads are serious stuff) like quench so the more you come off compression, the less effective they are. The 2011 - 2013 engine masters challenges in usa are really interesting from the view of results and what they use - and don't use.. A1 Hi performance have one of the succesful engines - interesting things in terms of overall approach. That intake setup is a very serious piece of kit - I think the designers might be the best source of info as to the best head combination along with matching the design to capacity and rpm range.

Here you go.. Lifted off an old site - be real careful with clevo stuff. A1 Hi performance in perth has a lot of mileage with clevelands - and it is hard won info as well. Unless you already have a set of Yates heads in your possession, or know where you can get a fantastic price on a set, or plan on building a new engine from scratch using a Windsor block, I do not advise using the Yates heads, because there are very good alternatives that are compatible with any Cleveland components, using all readily available, off the shelf, new parts. The Yates head is really not a Cleveland head. The only thing it has in common with a Cleveland head is the bolt pattern, which is common to all Windsor & 335 series motors. It requires different pistons and specific Yates shaft mount rocker arm systems. The intake manifolds and exhaust manifolds are unique too. However, since Yates heads are not canted valve heads, the pistons in your Cleveland block will not work with Yates heads. Neither will the rocker arms/valve train. The Yates C3 heads have very small combustion chambers, 40cc nominal. Too much compression for pump gas. The C3L heads have larger combustion chambers (67 cc nominal) and are a better choice for pump gas. The only intake manifolds available are the single four barrell, high rise "spider" style intakes. If the application is a street engine, you'll no doubt be using a cam with lift in the 0.600" range, the flow at higher lifts afforded by the race heads will not be utilized. The ports in an out of the box Ford race head are very small, they are intended to be ported by each race team to the size, shape and configuration the race teams desire, it is actually very expensive to get a set of Ford race heads ready to bolt onto a short block. --------------------------------------------------------------- You haven't mentioned what the intended use of the motor/car will be. So its not possible to focus on what's best for your application. Here's six Cleveland compatible alternatives for anyone to consider: 1) the CHI, AFD or Edelbrock 2V heads These are for the guy with a mildly tuned street motor, cams up to 0.600" lift. They bolt directly to a Cleveland short block stuffed with Cleveland pistons, will work with any 351C 2V intake manifold, there are some good manifolds to choose from including the Edelbrock Performer, the Edelbrock Air Gap, and the Parker Funnel Web-2V. The alloy 2V heads have exhaust ports compatible with 2V headers (I'm not sure if all 3 will work with 4V headers, but I know the CHI does). These heads are not for making maximum power, but they'll provide great throttle response, and with all out effort will surely support 600 BHP. Dennis Yogi has a set of the Edelbrock's on one of his Panteras. Sorry Dennis, I forget which one. 2) The good ol' CHI 3V head. The CHI head is a Cleveland head, it bolts right onto a Cleveland short block using Cleveland pistons and Cleveland valve gear. 351C 4V headers will match up too. The intake ports are available in 3 different volumes. The smallest ports are best with a standard displacement motor. The mid size ports are best with a stroker motor. I don't know anyone using the big ports. CHI will advise you which port size to select based upon your motor and your intended use of your car. There are high rise intakes available, and a two plane single four barrel low rise intake too. Any 351C 2V intake can be mated to CHI 3V heads using spacers sold by CHI. These are max effort, serious street heads that can be used for amateur racing too. These heads will support at least 750 BHP, in other words, they are comparable to the cast iron 4V heads in ultimate capability. A whole bunch of Pantera owners are running CHI 3V heads, Art Stevens just built a motor using them. 3) The AFD "SP" (stuffed port) 4V head Like the CHI head, the AFD head is a Cleveland head, it bolts right onto a Cleveland short block using Cleveland pistons and Cleveland valve gear. 351C 4V headers will again match up too. You don't have quite the intake manifold selection as you do with the CHI heads, but the Parker Funnel Web-4V is a direct bolt on. Like the CHI 3V head, this is a max effort serious street head. AFD has a much larger loyal following in Australia than they do here in North America. 4) The CHI 4V head. Everything I wrote about the CHI 3V head applies here as well, EXCEPT any 351C 4V intake manifold will bolt to these heads. That gives an owner very many options, such as the Blue Thunder, the Holley Strip Dominator, the Edelbrock Torker, the individual runner Weber 48IDA intakes, the Ford D1ZX-9425-CA (spread bore) and D1ZX-9425-DA (Holley) intakes, and the Weiand, Edelbrock or Offenhauser tunnel ram intakes.

Mate - For openers - and no disrespect - what do you want to use this engine for?- the forum can work miracles but the think tank needs context.

High pressure cooling system are common in Nascar. That bumper to bumper drafting they do causes a lot of heat build up in the rear car. They run 30lb in the systems I was told - and I have a vague idea that the rules for 2012?? restricted the pressure levels allowed in the radiator. That is a lot and I wonder who does their systems. Those housing issues are a damn nuisance in the ford. Frankly, some sort of remote or in-line thermostat housing would be better. You could machine it up and at least get some precision around the sealing.

Good luck with this. Not much space to increase radiator capacity and the more core thickness the harder it is to get the air thru. There are very few fans on the market that could be fitted in the space that are better than the factory units. However, maybe some electrical changes might help. The fans use DC motors and so perhaps you could up the voltage to 15 ( or so) and increase their rotational speed. There might be a bit of "design space" in the blades to allow for better airflow at higher speed without producing stall. Mods to the A/C condensor is something else to consider but not sure how that would affect its performance.

Its a good question and never stop asking them. I am with Kroozin and only wasted my dough on one intercooler ( The factory BF / F6 ) and one retune after it was fitted. Lucky, actually. I now have a PW stage 1. It keeps the stock engine piping so the cops don't bother me ( the main reason for not going any further). It works well, supplies repeatable power and is a neat fit. Bux wise, it is affordable and the kit arrives on time, complete and with all instructions. There are competitors of course but good welding and finish makes me excited... exit two from the list Do your sums, find a tuner. Then: Change the I/C for a good unit that is named on the forum, big time injectors, change the pump, do the F6 intake ( cheap as these days) and do the dump and cat with a stock system. Unless you are used to hi-po cars, the end result will make your eyballs stand on end.

Yep - for 450 at the tyres, it is.

Yes - good old oz........... Football, meat pies, kangaroos and Expensive Daewoo car= gone.

Check the pitlane page - I think Ratter commented on it. Why do you need a 100MM exhaust - it really is for the 370RWKW Plus group.

IMO, drive the car until you get rid of the fuel. Testing the fuel will cost you a lot of money and now that the tank contents are aged the final result may not be accurate. Modern fuels are stable but time does lower the quality. The car makes over 300RWKW as best as I can see from the threads - nice numbers It seems to me that a detected top end ping in your car is not something to be concerned about unless there is something mechanically wrong with it. Just because a certain set of tuning parameters produce detonation in one car and not in the other is the very reason why we go for custom tunes. 100 octane fuel is different to 98 and not just in the octane rating. If you tune for 100, you will have to stay with that. Density and chemical composition is different.

IMO, do the following in one hit: Fuel pump - drop in total replacement pump and swirl pot kits are now an easy install. Injectors - 1000's are now the benchmark but there are others (smaller) of course Intercooler ( a good brand ) Cat and dump (will be debate on this as well.) 12lb actuator. Depending on the car and the tuner you will get ~300rwkw - which can be adjusted back to suit your needs. I know some get the "300" with the F6 cooler but I could not. However - for a bux down list, a simple touch up and tune with just 440cc injectors and a fuel pump will see you gain an easy 40 KW at the engine. Opinions vary on the need for a fuel pump but for no more than ~ 500 dollars for a drop in kit it is a real good idea. Fuel starvation and aged fuel delivery components in these engines is a guaranteed formula for a blow up.

Ford says good bye to the Falcon - the enthuisiasts just say F/off - we'll go it alone. I like the look of that project!!

For 10 psi maybe about right with no fuel pump upgrade or actuator? Maybe the tuner thought that was enough with what was there?

Like it. To run ~120 MPh with such basic mods is excellent.

Cash with no trade? Yep for sure, but don't expect miracles with reductions with Factory accessories.

Is 6rwkw all that came from the tune because all the mods were done first and the number 1 power run was done and THEN the tune just tidied up the factory settings? BTW - 195 rwkw is a good outcome.

I was told Monsta torque are also evaluating one of these applifier units at the moment - no information unfortunately ( re-read hard data) but the comment was passed that plug gaps can be set back to 1.1mm in hi boost applications and idle quality and part throttle response improve. Nothing said about outright power changes. The units are on back order as Herrod have no stock of them.

The BF that ran at wylkatchem made 275 with a reported detune from 600RWKW. The aero on the BF falcon seems to be pretty good to about 260 or so - after that there is a bit of high speed wander. If you think about a basic aircraft, this where you are heading. The cars eventually go side to side and then pitch and yaw. The early stock bodied commodores ( VB - VK) used to start this sort of stuff around 190 - 195 and then get to be a real handful after that. The front end used to lift first and that is no fun at all.... In terms of speed it is a pretty basic cubic equation. Staying away from drag calculations (which can change if the car is moving around or the road surface is causing suspension movement ) and frontal area measurement, to double your speed it takes 8 times more power. In a limited event - 1 kilometre - you really have to get the 60 foot right as well. Accolades to all who have a go at this - it really is a worthy test of the cars and driving skills to get the shift points, tyres and power delivery all aligned for that all out run.

It is a one-of automatic built under sub-contract in France. Have a real good think about just who will know anything about this thing if it plays up. The zf is one of the worlds most used auto's for a damn good reason. It is made by a company that predates the second world war and also made transmissions for Tiger Tanks. Issues with the ZF are usually all about the dumb-ar*se cooler that is used both by Ford and Jaguar. Anything French has a shelf life of a croissant. Citroen really means lemon!!! IMO - the answer is no.

These things are very deceptive in terms of speed. The Wylkatchem airport runs do show a thing or two and the above logs are really worth thinking about. Remember, a BF at that event made 275KM/hr in a standing kilometre. Once you get a bit over 300RWKW, and assuming a bit of traction, you can make zero to the XR6T factory speed limiter = 230 in around 1100 metres. Forgetting all the downloads you see on U-Tube with people doing high speed runs on public roads, the now very old stuff done by Air Power Systems on a 5 Speed BA gives you some facts. Ignoring the debates about dyno readings, that car was advertised as showing around 330 RWKW and APS claimed around 390 flywheel KW. It did 307 Km/hr (191 MPH) at Avalon airport in good weather conditions with a high speed diff in it. By all reports from the witnesses it was both a real handful at that speed which is not surprising - along with the colossal air roar it made as it went by at close to top speed. Vevapower's estimate for a high two is right on the money IMO.

Thanks for letting us know.

That sorts out the beer from the bourbon. The Aston is a great car - 420KW and 620NM of torque in a 5.9 litre V12. Costs as much as a house . . . Heavy thing though. A N D as that occasionally entertaining fellow J. Clarkson might say.... " running right next to our very costly super-car, with a slipping ZF and a local chap at the helm is a turbo BF Falcon with 200,000K's on it ( oh, and slightly leaned on, shall we say, by XFT). Interesting.... IMO, it might be a 5.2 second run if the shift points were played with and the name of the game was the best possible 60 - 100 MPH time. Lotto win ( and a big one please) - yep, I might buy an exotica. Back to reality......... the Ford is pretty good - and in the 60 MPH to well past the hoon laws, you need good gear to get past them.

Yep - well done. The engine bay pipe kit looks good. Did you do the hot side and the under battery pipe as well?

It is not like the early turbo cars where a few simple add ons could change the performance. ( Like the S15 Nissan ). The factory ecu does its very best to defeat all of that. The ECU gets reflashed. Add-ons have had their time. Go and see Mick at pitlane and I am 100% sure he will sort out what you want. If you get retune and put a lower feed extension onto the factory airbox, ( plenty on ebay) you can get a bit above the old typhoon figures of 270 odd KW at the engine. It is a difference you can feel, it is a budget option and is pretty safe for most drivers. If you decide to do this, make sure the fuel and air filters are new + the plugs new and gapped at 0.8mm. It is actually really worth it. The cars just drive so much better and provided you do not beat the hell out of it, the drivelines do last and cope with the occasional burst. {I am assuming the car has reasonabvle k's on it and in good overall shape.}