stee3

Cheers

Whast interesting about that picture is you can also see very fine metal in the water jacket just behind that piston. The piston in that stuffed cylinder looks like its been cleaned but look at the crown in the piston behind it. Block also looks like its been decked recently as well. Did you try honing it yourself?

Dont know of any that have failed yet only time will tell. If your rail is dual feed you will need to do like what I have done and use a y fitting to split into 2 lines and have each side going into the fuel rail.

You dont really need to run a fuel cell you can use the standard tank even for E85 it will be fine. that's a nice setup and will easily support 350rwkw easlity and the best part about it is if you decide to up the power later your fuel system is already setup for it. You could use -6AN fuel lines if you use a dual feed rail. Just make sure the fuel line you chose are E85 compatible. I have a similar setup with -8 fuel lines up to plazmaman trin entry fuel rail, turbosmart fpr 1200 but I have 2000cc injectors and a 2500HP magnafuel pump work a treat.

UNIVERSAL MUFFLER DUMP VALVE SIMULATOR TURBO BOV SOUND BLOW OFF NOISE WHISTLER Does it all! http://www.ebay.com....=item2c68934083

Nice build mate... I remeber seeing this car on ebay and thinking I would love to put my engine in this. Keep us posted..

Was your car starving of fuel (surging) or was it just running lean? At 333 it wouldnt of been starving of fuel. I would say you were seeing 13.0+ AFRs right?

I couldnt help myself I had to throw in a Simon says. But If im going to provide some proper input then lets face it. The best cooler by far if your not goin to worry about a little cutting and for maximum power is the Plazmaman 1800HP cooler. Cant beat it! Mine has 3.5" inlet and 3.5" outlet with one off 3.5" cold side pipes from Plazmaman plus and the core is second to none you need to see this thing on the inside. Also its very light in weight and more suited to a big HP setup using a large frame turbo. I think qik1 has one as well..

Probably because Simon said!

Agreed! If your going to spend money and put new injectors and a new surge tank into a car why not complete the system and fit a proper lift pump as well? For this guys requirement an intank pump is fine but a surge tank with a single 044 with a new intank pump is the best way to go. You could get a away with 350-370RWKW on 98 or 100 octane using a single pump or dual pump surge tank and a standard lift pump if you want to be a tight ass but that's about as far as I would push it.

Bolt a fibreglass seat and a tacho in it and take it down the track as is. Following this closely as I'm considering putting a roll cage in mine too.

Thanks Ninka, normally I would mark them but this head was a spare at a mates workshop and I got him to send it out for me I assumed he would of marked it. The photo reflects what the manual indicates as well. Much appreciated guys.

Thanks mate!

For the expriences engine bulder or someone who knows lots.. Some how I mixed the cam caps on my new head. Is there anyway to identify which side went where?

Bummer man I know how it feels, mine broke about 4 weeks ago. Big$$$ build only lasted less than 500km. I'm assuming you had oil pump gears in it? With pressure dropping like that maybe the pump has hydroliced and craked the housing. Could be a number of things. How long did the motor last before it broke?

Nice work guys... With 25degs timing at full noise and -10AN fuel lines Its defenatly E85 probably drum E85. Either way great setup!

Should read: Incorrect your theory is not right. You need to look at turbocharger size and the efficiency of the turbocharger as well. Intercooler efficiency is measure in more areas than just "cools better" On an engine with a GT35 or similar frame turbo I could agree that a BAR AND PLATE intercooler would be more efficient for daily use and abuse. On a larger frame turbocharger like a GT42/45/47 which has higher flowing capacity you will find that a tube and fin intercooler will be more efficient. Its not about how well an intercooler cools, its matching the right intercooler to the rest of the gear. After testing and data logging all my mates coolers and trying about 3 different types of intercoolers on my last car I went with a tube and fin on the street. I sacrificed 2-4degrees of cooling for an intercooler with less pressure drop meaning more response. I would rather sacrificed 2-4degrees of cooling making my turbo work less meaning lower engine bay temps. Lastly we could debate this all day but all bar and plate coolers are not made the same and the same goes for tube and fin. Some will be more efficent than other, other will be worse factor that in as well.

Incorrect your theory is not right. You need to look at turbocharger size and the efficiency of the turbocharger as well. Intercooler efficiency is measure in more areas than just "cools better" On an engine with a GT35 or similar frame turbo I could agree that a tube and fin intercooler would be more efficient for daily use and abuse. On a larger frame turbocharger like a GT42/45/47 which has higher flowing capacity you will find that a tube and fin intercooler will be more efficient. Its not about how well an intercooler cools, its matching the right intercooler to the rest of the gear. After testing and data logging all my mates coolers and trying about 3 different types of intercoolers on my last car I went with a tube and fin on the street. I sacrificed 2-4degrees of cooling for an intercooler with less pressure drop meaning more response. I would rather sacrificed 2-4degrees of cooling making my turbo work less meaning lower engine bay temps. Lastly we could debate this all day but all bar and plate coolers are not made the same and the same goes for tube and fin. Some will be more efficent than other, other will be worse factor that in as well.

With the motor out and at the machine shop I was pondering doing some cylinder head work to the new head seeing as my last head was rooted after the bearing failure. I was going to extensively port the exhaust side and change the exhaust cam to a slightly larger cam to increase flow on the exhaust side reducing pumping loss on the exhaust up stroke. The engine made good power but want to make it more efficient and perhaps get 550-570RWKW on premium fuel. What gains ahev you guys had with ehad work? No doubt the efficiency will increase power output but wanted to get some feedback from someone who has actually had head work done.

I had a look on the Manta website and didnt see the twin 3" do you have a link mate?

Looking really good mate love the way that turbo intake pipe flows into the airbox. When are screwing the boost up into it?

that's what I would do and use silicon around the gasket.

Brand new turbo sump is $300 for Ford. To replace the sump the motor needs to come out. Like GTXXED said just retap it with a slightly larger tap or screw in a larger bolt. Most mechanics can do it any workshop.

Yup sorry PATS not VATS, makes it easier to get your ride flogged..

If you can wire it up id use the WOLF over the standard ECU but you would really need to know your sh*t to wire one up. Then will be able to use a proper throttle body and tune the car in real time. But as stated above its not an easy job to wire one in and probably not worth the time or effort unless your going for an all out race setup. By your first post it doesnt seem to be the case as your wanting to retain the ZF and make 350RWKW. Your main problem will not be running the engine that actaually the easy part you wont be able to control the ZF. Sell the V500 (to me ) and get an X3. Also as stated above use the search function lots of good information here mate. Guys here making 600RWKW+ on standard ECU but they have there limitations as well. BTW - VATS can easily be turned off