riptide

This makes HP Tuners look a bit more preferable. Do Xcal 2 owners get a special price on Xcal 3 ??

I drive mine like that. I'm sure someone more informed will give a proper answer

I have a breather hose on my engine where that fits on and it runs down behind the manifold to no-where. You would have to block the hole in the crossover.

Running 325wkw 680nm @ 14psi & 4600rpm as of this afternoon. Had it up to 420wkw last time on the dyno but not for a sustained length of time. My ugly plenum made better power and had very good response but I will stay with the standard one for now because I'm not sure if the other one had rich or lean cylinders.

Haha yeah, I've had that a couple of times. One of my pipes needed flaring and fitting with a decent hose clamp. I also added a bracket and hose clamp to hold the pipe.

I expect it's so the novice driver doesn't end up facing into the traffic

I cut my sump clean in half when I blew mine. Cut the lower half of the motor in half too. I ended up sticking a BA motor in for $1,000. It's hard to get decent Ford gear over here at the right price. If I had some spare cash I would probably do a rebuild on an NA block with rods and pistons.

I don't think any movement is required for torque, like a torque wrench it can be loaded up and held still.

I'm with you Gonadman2. All I can think is that the figures given in the ad are assuming total traction but in reality the tyres are breaking traction a little and releasing torque/load but not picking up speed fast enough to go into full-on wheel spin. I see where you're coming from. It seems acceleration is missing.

Maybe you could upgrade the back brakes but it seems like an expensive way about it...

Doh!!

Ford always rip people of on part prices in my experience. I priced up the rubber bits that go under the rear springs today and ford want $85 each for them. So $340 for the set of four just for the rear :o So I will make some rubber packers to go under the existing ones. Maybe they are trying to make it so expensive to maintain that I'll buy the new model??

There will be plenty of guys local to you that have a set of stock injectors laying around that want little or nothing for them and they would have been working when they came out.

I have the standard Bosch one that I fitted back on to get rid of the flutter and a 50m/m one I have converted to a pressure relief valve. Was just wondering if I'm evacuating enough air quick enough? It's fixed that infernal flutter though

With the after-market air intakes is there an increase in induction noise? I know there is with mine but it's on the drivers side in place of the battery.

What about running two standard Bosch BOVs? Might try it myself.

I think Henz would be on the money. He has better mods than me (Plaz Plenum, BF engine etc) and I made 420wkw on the dyno while tuning for the new exhaust. @dragonf6 Not sure of the exhaust on the F6 but I would do the exhaust first if I was to mod another BF because I think it's important to get all the used, hot gases out easily and avoid constipation with less turbo heat and lower boost/power ratio. I tried pushing more in than what could escape easily and it didn't end well. 330-340wkw is a fairly respectable goal so the safer the better in my opinion.

Non tuned? So you upgraded the exhaust without a tune and made good gains? If that's the case does it mean the engine is getting more air so running leaner? Just wondering because I upgraded my exhaust recently and was told not to go hard for long periods until it was tuned.

Have you monitored the fuel pressure? I would change the fuel filter anyway. Cheap and easy.

I haven't done this yet but I will be giving it a go. Just a word of caution if you have an AFR gauge. Silicone based products may damage your wideband sensor. Not sure about the narrow band sensors or what other products may do damage.

At the back of the fuel rail. It has the vacuum line connected to it. What about the pump?

I would consider an actuator at that power. If you decide later that you want to add one you might have to pay for another tune? You may make power easy enough but holding it while coming on and off the gas may be another thing. Mine feels stronger and more consistent with the bigger actuator on. I have run it both ways at just over 300wkw.

You need something on the back that the SS's can appreciate too

Looks good on the BF. Mine's already black all over so not sure what would look good. My fogs have been removed so I'm still working out how to finish it. 3" cold side piping under the headlight took priority

It might depend on the exhaust. What is it? Also what actuator?