riptide

Well, I'll start at the beginning. When I was at the drags the other week my engine developed a rattly, grindy, tapping noise which seemed to go away after a while. I thought because the trans went into second and stayed there with my foot flat to the floor until the engine over revved and cut out that I might have done some damage. I checked the boost log and I had hit 20psi :o so thought I might have bent a rod or two or goosed the oil pump. So I pulled the motor out Thursday and guess what? The flex plate had come loose . There were four bolts that hold it to the crank sitting under the torque converter and the last two were finger tight and next to each other. So Friday I put an NA motor in that was lying around and fitted the original actuator back in with minimum boost for now. Checked out the rods in the motor that came out and they all look good, so it looks like the new Spool rods I ordered aren't really needed although I will put them in anyway with the help of the young fella so he can see how an engine works inside. I have noticed with the NA motor that the mileage seems better and it's sharper off the mark, although a bit sluggish up top with the boost backed right off. Once the 'Spool' rods are in the turbo motor I'll pump up the boost on the NA and see what it will do . I was thinking about dropping the change point in the gearbox by about 500rpm and cranking up the boost to about 18psi since it seems to be revs that these motors aren't really designed for. The Spool rods are supposed to be good for over 1,100hp. I think I like driving the car how it is for now. Does anyone know what boost the NA can handle without detonating and what other problems might arise?

Easy way to tell is to blow through the top one and see where the air comes out. That's where the hose goes because they're set up so if the solenoid fails to power up they will let air through to open the waste gate.

I think there is. One is normally open and the other port is normally closed, depending on the application.

What is the oversize valve made from? I might run a few off at work.

I've heard of coils failing as the boost increases and the spark has struggles more under compression. Sounds a bit extreme swapping the pump. Can,t you just get the pressure tested? I made a fuel pump pressure tester which fits under the car where the fuel rail hose clips to the metal fuel line. Most tuners will have one and could test the fuel pressure.

What are you guys paying for the nittos?

What kind of tune do you have? I can't imagine your wagon not spinning up in first with 317kw unless t boost comes on real slow? Or maybe I should get me some decent tyres

Yeah, the boost pressure through the solenoid assists the opening of the waste-gate. If you disconnect it it will take more exhaust pressure to open the waste-gate. It won't open cleanly though and the boost won't be quite as steady. I prefer an electronic boost controller. Gets the pressure up quick and holds it nice and stable. A good tuner can check what's wrong with it fairly easy. Maybe easier than the guy doing the service because it will be hooked up to monitoring gear for the fuel pressure and it may be logged also along with afr's etc.

If it's the actuator wouldn't it stay a lot higher than 2-3psi? If you're running a standard actuator you could just remove the hose from the boost solenoid so it opens on spring pressure without diaphragm/boost assist. Should run ~12psi I think. Be careful though. If there's fuelling problems you don't want to lean out and detonate. Probably better to get it checked out properly if the simple plugs etc don't fix it. You don't want to lose your engine... When you say it has a flash tune is that generic? If so you may be best going for a proper tune to see if your pump and injectors are maxing out anyway.

lol @ 2 weeks A gizmo like that could render the Xcal obsolete

...and some tooth-picks to hold the eyelids open

Obviously you need more power then

I'm kinda the same. I would like to start again on mine and have it look more stock under the hood etc. My mate got similar power with hardly any mods. I talked him into doing it how I would the second time around and it came out real nice. Stock exhaust with gutted cat and lagged dump and cat 42lb injectors pump $17.50 10lb actuator Ported waste-gate PW crossover pipe Standard intake box with back half of aluminium crossover only. Re-painted. HDi cooler Electronic boost controller HP tuners tune With those few mods we netted well over 300kw and it sounded almost stock. Looks great too, just tinted and de-badged. Total cost was around $1500 plus the tune since we did all the work ourselves.

I must be getting old, I quite like those rims

Yeah, that's what caught my eye Steve. I would stay clear of those early models anyway since the later BF2's are a similar price now. I was surprised how much earlier the sticker in the door says on some cars than what they're registered as.

has valve springs... Exhaust is 3". Will that be big enough? How many K's on it? Has the turbo line been checked for blockage and the filter replaced or removed? Wouldn't like to see you lose the turbo and put shrapnel in the engine for no good reason

I would look at something more like this http://www.carpoint....0&Cr=2&trecs=16 You don't want the weaker rods in the older models and you get the good exhaust cam I believe. Oh, and the better brakes. I wouldn't rush into anything Some of those ones labelled BF look like BA's to me...

Hey HERC. If you click on "The Market" at the top of the page there is an advertising section. Maybe you could put the k's and a few more details in there Is there a sad story to go with the parts?

I think if I was going for a V8 of that era it would be a commonwhore. So much easier to get performance out of and performance parts here in NZ. They also hold their resale better for some reason. You may have gathered I don't really go for "brands" but more for performance and drive-ability, hence the XR6T

I suppose it can never breathe too well They offered two in 3.5" s/s when I got mine for my sedan. A loud one and a quiet one. They talked me into the louder one but I should have got the quiet one. I'm trying to go back to stealth (very unsuccessfully so far).

I think the 4" is overkill if 300rwkw is all the power you want. It would probably be hard to install so it doesn't knock. We had my 3.5" up to 420 wkw on one dyno run with no noticeable adverse effects. I still get the odd knock/rattle from the exhaust when cornering when it's hot sometimes. Twin 2.5" systems may have better clearance.

^^^ I use cable ties on most of my small boost lines.

Doesn't sound good. Is the level correct? Also try taking the bung out just a little and have a smell of the oil.

Do you have any gauges to monitor your cars health?

Retired cop at 46? WTF?