ScatterBrain

Slip on spacers are ok, But with a 8mm spacer you may find your studs aren't long enough.

This could be a cheaper option http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/190732370623?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

If you after a comfort option go Superpro, but if you have brembos or race the car get the Whiteline bushes. I've gone through 3 set of Superpro bushes racing.

Well mine is a Gopro HD 1080p, But anything that's 720p and up should be ok.

It's a Nolathane adjustable top control arm, Currently I'm running -1.5° camber.

I thought I'd give it a go mounting the camera under the car too.

What camber are you running in the rear ?

The new fury tip

Another possibility for the scratched rim, There could be excessive free play in the wheel bearing.

Excessive toe in or negative camber will cause inner tyre wear. Maybe also check you lower front control arm bushes, see if they're split. In regards to the marks on the inside of the wheels, turn your steering to full lock and see if the rims are touching the swaybar

Best picture I've got of my exhaust tip, 3.5" single with no rear muffler. Only problem it keeps melting the bumper.

I can't remember off the top of my head, but it's always best to start small and work your way up. My suggestion would be to pull the spring out and put one washer under it, reassemble and test. One thing you must watch when shimming it is you don't cause the spring to coil bind before the valve can fully open. If that happens the pump can over pressurize at higher rpm.

To make the steering lighter you can boost the power steering pressure. You'll need to disassemble the pump and shim the relief spring to up the pressure. I think from memory 500psi should be achievable without having to worry about other seals leaking.

I know from experience if you get a hole in the oil cooler no matter how small, It does not leak slowly.

Also If you interested there's a set of wheels and race tyres on Ebay that you may be interested in. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Work-XT7-Rims-and-Semi-Slicks-18x9-5-20-/221172896113?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337eee9171

On my BF 18x9.5 +30 cleared everything but on a FG I'm not sure because the upright is different. Also If you concerned about brake clearance send them an email with the brake template attached and see if they can check the fitment. I run a 5mm wheel spacer on the front when I race never had any problem going through corners @160kmh, Also don't use alloy wheel nuts.

Wolf S36 will clear brembos easily, I had Gold S36's as my old track wheels. I don't know about clearance on the front with the FG's but I'd say you may need a 5mm spacer on the front, 3mm at minimum.

I don't know about Melbourne but in Queensland, you can have any size rim provided 1. The load and speed rating of tyres are no lower then the factory minimum spec wheel on placard 2. The rolling diameter in no more then 26mm bigger or 13mm smaller then any factory tyre listed on placard.

Check your intake manifold gasket, I could be split. Usually they go on one of the first three runners.

The more g-force on the car during high speed corners could compress the bushes in the rear control arms causing the CV to move in an potentially maxing out their travel. If It Is the CV the amount of throttle applied would have little to no affect on the vibration, It would all be related to cornering speed and grip. Just on a side note if the cars too low your roll center goes through the floor and your handling will get worse and you may end up with heat issues.

Yeah that's a bad vibration alright. How low is the rear of the car? maybe your maxing out the CV's travel.

Whens you next track day? Maybe see if you can do a run in the track with your road tyres and if it still vibrates than it's not the tyres. I doubt it would be to do with wheel bearing or the hub. Also do you have any in car footage of the car when you get the vibration?

Sure it's not your tyres sliding? What hot pressures do you run?

Have you checked you alternator connection and if its charging correctly?

That's going to be an expensive fix