dashturbo

Victoria has one of the lowest road tolls to populations in the world, after a few crazy european places like sweden.. I wouldn't be looking to America for help.. The roads need work so that drivers can see what is coming.. no surprises.. otherwise good signage pointing out the issue would be a start..

well, I was nearly killed yesterday, at a ped crossing when a gave his hyundai everything after his light went red... I couldn't hope for anything more than him losing his licence or having the same thing happen to him. The light was red for like 5 seconds before he booted it, he was about 50m away and then auto kicked down and he flew past... this is when I wish there was a camera on every set of lights. there were kids everywhere, it was across from an ice cream shop! damn idiot!

Thank god for that, that would have been an expensive vacuum..

1 yes, and it needs to check that the switch works before switching on cruise.. 2 you can't move it out of park or into drive without your foot on the brake. However you can move it from drive to neutral with no other inputs, drive to d3,d2,d1... etc 3 you can turn off the ignition, but not the acc or remove the key. which is brilliant because it means your steering lock cannot come on if you turn off your ignition while driving, which could have saved his life in this situation but not forced him to keep going. that's how I understand it.

it might be beneficial to ask ford for the part that failed.. either the conrod, end cap or its bolts... Then see if there is a porous cavity (manufacturing defect), you might be able to get a metalurgist to look at it, or if there are signs of over-tightening or somethin... dunno.. on 2nd thoughts it might just be hard work..

or turn off the ignition, or push into neutral, or proper push of the brakes (like he did when there was actually some danger)..

What is FMIC? .....Massive Intercooler? oh... got it Front Mount Inter-cooler

Stupid Labor! hope they get booted..

This story is the most bogus story I have ever heard.. I can't wait until the truth about this comes out.. must be trying to get out of a speeding fine I reckon. So all at once with no warning, the cruise control switch on the brake pedal worked before he turned on the cruise (it checks). then stopped working. Okay that is possible once in the history of the universe.. His brakes didn't work.. except for when he needed them at the end.. right.. that's likely... he couldn't turn the ignition off? I still cant work that out, why not? was he retarted? so then he couldn't slip it into neutral.. yes some auto's wont let you move the shifter out of park without the key.. but again for the first time ever his shifter jammed at the same time as his ignition, brakes, the cruise control switch, even the coast and cruise buttons stopped working simultaneously. This dude is the dumbest person I have ever heard a word about.. ever... my cat is smarter..

1. not really, I've been told vehicles really only throw rods if the big end bolts come loose, or snap.. if they snap it can be from extended periods of high revs, but not over powered/boosted. 2. no idea, I'm sure our sponsors could help you out, Nizpro supply savage motors I think. FTG autosalvage have some interesting stuff (2nd hand) 3. Ring FTG Autosalvage, they might offer you something, but it would be worth heaps more with a working motor in it, which they could supply. if you wanna sell the thing.

its seems unlikely that it is due to over-boosting two years ago.. I tend to think it is more likely gudgeon pin problem or something like seduced suggests... rods don't go through blocks unless something went wrong.. that is not considered normal wear and tear.. unless it was massively over-revved.

that's Mashed!!

I wouldn't be too quick to dismiss the clutch. I haven't seen a falcon one since EA, but all the clutches I've seen have take up springs, that supposedly smooth the application. Basically four normal springs (look like valve springs) between the clutch material and the input shaft... Sometimes, they get damaged, crack, break, fall out. Or in general are too soft and can cause the kinda thing your talking about. It may get better with a new clutch..

Hey Aaron.... I think we need some pics.

yeah well, I took mine to the dealer... they told me they removed the mirror and re-glued it.. now its worse than ever, plus now I have the some dodgy black goop visible on the window seal. I love my car but..every dealer is the same For the moment the best fix appears to be black electrical tape.. although I haven't tried it since the "repair".

but really.. is the power fluctuating? or is it when the throttle comes on and off your getting jerking? My FG has always been jerky since I got it. even when the cruise comes on or off on the freeway. and when the engine is cold (open loop) the power feels jerky.. but I can live with both.. oh and what do you mean by jerk? a thump through the drivetrain?

haha, So when using your auto as a manual you get upset about the gear changes you make on rough roads... = use it as an auto; it holds the gear, and changes almost instantly anyway.. This thread ended with complaints about poor fit and finish.. but bashing it with a torch is what fixed the tight tolerance.. that is irony yeah? P.S. get a manual..

It helps to start at the beginning.. because ABS, Brake Assist, Stability Control and Traction Control all work in unison sharing parts and tasks.. A.B.S. Anti Lock brakes measure the speed of each wheel separately (through wheel sensors you can see on the inside of brake rotors). If the computer deems it necessary it can stop the flow of brake fluid to each wheel using the ABS module and therefore prevent the application of brakes to each wheel. for example; If you hit the brakes really hard and only the rear right wheel locks up.. The speed of that wheel will be slower than the other three, so the ABS module restricts the application on brakes on that wheel, until it spins freely again, once it is going the same speed as the others three wheels, the module lets the fluid flow through and apply the right rear brake again, then it may lock up again .. etc. the cycle continues.. and you feel a pulsation through the brake pedal as the fluid is let through to apply each brake then blocked. Traction Control V1 it works by measuring the speed of all four wheels (from A.B.S. and steering wheel angle). This system is on AU Falcons.. and some BA's In most vehicles that have Traction Control but not Brake Assist (description later). The computer can only stop your braking effort from getting to the wheels it cannot apply the brakes without your help. This means that the system must cut the engines power, in an AU it does this by cutting spark to cylinders (because there is a cable connected to you foot it cant lift the throttle), this is very obtrusive system although simple and cheap to build. But because BA falcons have fly by wire the engine power can be controlled without cutting cylinders, a bit nicer than AU but.. example; in your AU fairmont you spin the right rear wheel at the lights. The computer with the aid of A.B.S wheel sensors notices that one wheel is spinning faster than the other three (it accounts for the steering wheel angle when turning). So it cuts spark to a number of cylinders until the spinning wheel slows to the speed of the other three (accounting for steering wheel angle). For the driver this usually results in a abrupt loss of power, painful when pulling out into traffic! Traction Control V2 When incorporating Brake Assist and Dynamic Stability Control. FG systems and some BF's? Brake Assist: In these systems the addition of brake assist means that by using a pump it can effectively apply the brakes without your help (not all the way though), the direct advantage of this is that when an old lady is not hitting the brakes hard enough in an accident, the car can decide to help out. Stability control is the logical evolution of traction control on steroids. With the addition of a YAW sensor (measures rotation) the computer can measure the actual direction of the vehicle using wheel speed sensors (ABS), steering wheel angle (trac control), and theYAW sensor. Once it can work this out, it can apply the brakes (brake assist pump) and then control which wheel is being braked (ABS module), as well as intervene in any throttle, ignition, boost or injection process. So it can watch your inputs and the vehicles movements and make sure they align. For example. You come into a corner at speed, and turn the wheel and accelerate, only the car starts understeering (going straighter than you wanted) and begins to spear off the road. So the ABS sensors notice the back left wheel spinning.. the YAW sensor compared to the steering wheel angle shows the car is not rotating as intended.. the computer ease off the throttle slightly until that spinning wheel grips.. the Brake assist pump applies the brakes the ABS module decides the only wheels that need brakes are the left front and rear wheels. this is what you get... a pumping noise (Brake assist) a flashing light abs module vibrating as it switches brakes on and off stopping them from locking up the braked left wheels will make the vehicle turn as intended even when the front wheels are sliding. So, if you are always relying on traction control, it could eventually wear the brakes, and some of the traction control parts, but I wouldn't expect anything else...

hey bunna, congrats on the promotion Well the car is at the dealer now.. Courtney and Patterson in Heidelberg.. I'll let you know what they do. Thanks for the offer though, might still take you up on it. I did send john an email with all the details a few months ago. Speaking of which, got any ideas on how I can wriggle my way into an interview over there? Midnight, I placed some tape on the top edge, drove along the freeway at 100km/h then put the window down and took the tape off... made a big difference to mine.

Hey Guys, I have an FG from August 08, I always had annoying wind noise from the drivers side, thought it was the door seals/windows seals... however I found that with 2 inches of electrical tape I could get rid of 90% of my noise. The noise is coming from the gap you can see in the following picture.. I have looked at a fair few older FG's and they all seem to have the bow out at the top.. however, I recently drove Ford's press XR6 and the mirror mount was perfect and no wind noise.... So I'm off to the dealer tomorrow, hopefully I'll get it fixed under warranty... I'll let you know how it goes..

haha! that's wicked.. in that case.. perhaps ford R&D wasn't harsh enough.. I think warranty is void if taken on a track anyway.. I know it is on a Nissan GTR, I drove one the other day and had a look at the owners manual.. warranty is almost totally void if you turn of traction control

Yeah the gates are much closer, movement is lighter and faster (still no fiesta), although there is still some clunk in the drivetrain its nicer than I remember with BA BF. I have no clutch problem, and its had a hard time... I thought a clutch would only just have been bed in by 11,000km, let alone worn out. My understanding is that anything else is mechanical failure and should be covered by warranty. pressure plate, throwout bearing etc.

Username: dashturbo Realname: Daniel Carsname: Goblin

I had exactly the problems you described with the old 6 speed, and I found the T5 alright but not great. The FG 6 speed is in a whole new world. triple synchros, and other crazy shifter stuff (can't remember what).. feels like my MGB gearbox (that's a good thing), only issue is that it can make rattling noises in neutral.. go drive one...you'll love it.

It can work, doesn't need to cost $450.. latest software update (v10 or later) should work with iphone, and iphone 3G. For iphone 3GS you need latest (since October I think) bluetooth module (rrp parts $370) part number 8R2Z19C112CA there is some really good from here; Australian Ford Forums - iPhone 3G S compatible with the FG? Australian Ford Forums - Bluetooth Problems on FG Tech Pack