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I have Pedders Extreme adjustable coil over fronts with pedders sports rider in the rear lowered. The first time I ended up scrubbing the rears with approx 50% left on outside edge. Had new rubber fitted went back, told them also how it wanted to follow the road contours since they installed, The person who adjusted said it was out badly, and asked it I had taken back for the post adjustment. I said yes and that they must have stuffed it up last time they set it. Anyway it seems to be tracking alright now and driving straighter, I think my centre rear bush will also need replacing which may help driving straighter. I agree there is many susspensions shops out there that actually know how to set these Barra's.

Just curious if it leaves a fault code in your ecu showing it has been tampered with? Been wanting to fit a FPV facia to my cluster but havn't done so because of this fault code.

I wrote up a topic on this awhile back, it seems most modded T's that have reached around 80 000k's end up having coil failure. My verdict is the extra heat generated from the engine in high output tunes causes the coils to fail. You need to thing of how they are at the top of the engine where the heat rises and the fact that they are sealed in with nowhere for the heat to disperse. I to learnt this after looking over every other possible cause. I had also tried to check the resistance unsuccessfully. I would think the reason it doesnt show the resistance is because they are failing under pressure trying to ignite the plugs under compression as it is harder for the spark to travel the more the pressure rises. eg smaller gaps on plugs when running higher boosts unless you upgrade to a more powerful ignition system. This explains why they can still idle smooth but as boost rises they start to fail. Another thing I have noticed is there is atleast 3 part numbers for these coils that I know of, is this because Ford is aware to the coil problem and have tried to improve the coils. I have currently fitted a set out of my low K stock I6 engine which is for my Hi Po project. These have been in there now for approx 15 000k's with no probs. I also Have a set of new coils from ebay ready for the hi po engine once I build it. I have a scooped bonnet and have also been thinking of setting up a ducting system to flow cool air through the coil cover, at the same time I need to design it so it only allows air through without miosture.

Not siding for the F wits, but dont forget the media will run with anything they can to try and destroy our owning hi po cars. For christ sake the driver is known, they should have locked him away last time, not gave him his gun back and said hay why dont you go and fix the pollulation problem. Have they at all mentioned race?????

So its quicker than Gtech then. Love the front panels, not one that even lines up. Typical gmh build quality.

My toilet just blocked, need to find a plumber that can get here real fast, I am busting to go. call for super fast Plumber. Mate that is just orsm, na dont really need a plumber, bet your never late to a job. Wouldn't mine having a look in person at your car, let me know next cruise you are heading on or hitting the street on the coast there. Also PM me about the Manifold, maybe interested.

I will try to make it, bit short notice. Where is the meet up for us logan residents at what time, or just meet at nudgee. Is that the huge truck stop with Maca's etc just after the bris airport.

Please change his decission to quit, it is so good seeing him take out his team mate. Go FORD. 6 in the top ten race 1 7 in the top ten race 2 8 in the top ten race 2 And we are still using a older chassis, suppose snoozers decission is the right one as he is even going to do worst once the new falcon hits the track. Cant get away with cheating anymore so he retires.

One down and atleast 2 more wish would follow as in Girly voice Kelly who cant win without punting and his mate Smurphy who also stoops to the punt them off if you cant beat them. Love it how people can live a lie Big nose only won races because of gmh's dictatorship. Most of his wins where against the AU falcon that was not allowed to run the same undertray as the crummy due to the Ford always making more power, there for the falcon was handicap with frontal downforce. Falcon 16kg to crummy 60kg just a slight differance. As for the greatest - brock, even his first Bathurst win was with a xu1 that ran a alloy engine block and remade steel wheels. he admitted using the alloy engine block and firth admitted to using the wheels. the wheels kept cracking and breaking the block would crack. So much for the Gaint killer xu1. Info Australian Musclecar mag. And that's just the start of gmh's cheating ways. Skaife was found to be using illegal suspension in the vr-vs crummy but was also let off. they even used illegal cylinder heads one bathurst, I was told that Dicky lodged a protest and the officals just kept stalling till the hour passed. that I had it comfirmed with a co worker (HSV Parts manager of QLD). not to mention the 4 or was it 6 car team.when the rules only allowed 2 car teams. Not even a single point penalty. Then you have the numerous times the lead ford was taken out at bathurst by a back running crummy. and even a rock. then the underwear fiasco with the greatest driver australia has everseen Markus Ambrose. it just goes on so how many honest wins have big nose or brock ever won. Brock is probably in hell now wishing he wasn't a cheat on the track and off the track on his wife. Atleast someone smacked him (Husband of the married women he cheated with) for cheating before he past. He is not going to be missed, but I am sure there will be more puppets that gmh can control.

The aftermarket is so much bigger in the states yes. I wouldn't say the gm has the majority over ford aftermarket though as I have many a clip on Twin turbo Ford GT's, and heaps of clips of very tuff Stangs. I would say on majority the Ford is the quicker car. a few good clips to search. you tube Ford GT-TT - Texas Mile 2007_0 This car is just so dam fast hitting over 220mph by the mile from standing start. not to mention having bad traction probs, see run number 3. Then theres a number of heffernan built Ford GT Twin turbos. Also search for Bad ass stang, Blown Black Boss Stang. That stang is so quick and sounds so horn. good clip by Mofo Mofo Productions- TT GTO_Turbo 5_4 Stang_Turbo 4V Stang_0 Looks like the stangs all kick ass here. N/a 408 stroker Fox body Stang even kicks a 2005 GTO running 7psi APS Twin Turbo setup. Then same GTO Gets flogged by a 2000 Stang with 5.4 boosted In answer about that MK1 Cortina, Sorry the Cortina Mk1 was full time drag car so lag was not a problem he just made a wrong choice with power plant.

what u say about capri's with big block chevs then?? Not as fast as capris with Ford big blocks - Manswetto

Agreed price wise, but there is reasons- so many parts available. So many parts available because the OEM parts are low quality, and fail before they even get to their first service hence the need for so many aftermarket parts. Euro 3 what a bugger - I wouldn't buy or build a gt40 replica and fit a gm product to it, I would rather look for a early prebuilt car with a Boss engine and then twin turbo it for a easy 1000hp like a lot of yanks have done with the Ford GT. Backwards alright. I remember some guy a while back with a 10 second 2.0l turbo mk1 cortina, he went and put a chev big block in it and it went near 1 second slower. Some people you just cant tell they have to learn by there mistakes. cant wait till this guy gets nailed by a standard xt falcon or goes broke trying to keep oil up to it. SIN SIN SIN - Needs to be stoned to death.

Thursday heading home from work I spot this 888 toyota. Just though it would be funny to share. Sorry of picture quality as rushed photo as the road ahead is common revenue raising area. It is Cab number 888 incase you cant make out the number, QLD Yellow cab, was at Park rd Underwood. Hope they dont go the Toyota option, as we want to make sure we can rack up most consecutive bathursts wins. if they do Hope lowndes stays with ford and can continue the win count.

Just like my wife carries on, but whenever we take her mum anywhere she loves it as her mother freaks as soon as boost comes on, and the wife keeps encouraging me to keep doing it. Gotta stop using boost though with her in car as I am sure she will end up having a heart attack. Then again no more mother inlaw LOL. The wife also loves, and encourages me to run other cars when she wants to flirt with what she finds attactive guys. Funny how the fear goes when something more distracting is happening.

Ok dont use sand paper on alloy as apparently the sand impregnates them and the finish wont be as bright. Best way is to machine them then hit them with buffing wheel. I had Wheel Revelutions here in QLD Moss Street do my lips and dish, WILL NEVER GO BACK AGAIN. Charged me $100, suppose to have been machined with a diamond cutter. Well you could feel the machining marks with your fingernail. And where they finished the machining they had left a double step which was different to each wheel. I then took them to Ray Billeau at labrador Gold Coast, he fixed them for me for a further $130. He could not beleive the crap job revelutions had done. So beware of Wheel Revelutions, Not recommended.

Iam waiting for a fix to this problem from my supplier but if you can help before he can let me know. I have purchased a SCT Racer Pro package. It is a tuning package for the individual similiar to the Workshop version Advantage 3. I have it installed on a Laptop that is running Vista. The problem is that I have no value's present in the tables. When I open the Advantage 3 program it comes up with a error that says: Warning Errors occured while loading data. Some items may not be available for edit. There is no values anywhere. If I try to load in other perimeter files I get: Advantage Version 3.3 Build 72 Unhandled exception has occured in your application.If you click Continue the application will ignore this error and attempt to continue.if you click Quit, the application will close immediately. Index was outside the bounds of array. I have ticked all boxs in Tools/Options/General and still no value's showing. I have also done all updates and done all procedures for it to be complied with Vista that I have found. Eg run in windows XP S2, turned off Admin account. extracted RockeyRegVista into SCT folder. When I load in say Injector value file as I mentioned before it doesn't show any values but in history it shows it has been done. when I go to close program I get: Confirm Tune 32GJ - 1 has been modified and is not yet saved. save before closing? Please help if anyone knows or if anyone is local to Logan City that is prepaired to help me get it sorted let me know. PM for contact or leave contact.

Ok without reading through 30 plus pages, I will add what I have seen from logan city to the goldcoast. White XR6T with towbar - numerous times around browns plains, closest was at Westpoint while waiting to pick daughter up. Also at westpoint a WRX plates 60 rxy black in colour. A few VY ss, One dark Blue near loganholme hyperdome, White one logan motorway. VE ss ute middle rd, had pulled over a guy in a VT clubsport. Honda Accord marone in colour logan motorway. Toyota 380 black in colour outside Australia Fair Gold Coast, nearly went to run him "phew" it had big chromies on it. Toyota Aurion Marone in colour pulled over someone on Beaudesert rd. XR5 Logan motorway Also been informed by a person I work with that his best mate a senior sargent had told him of a black XR8 ute with surf boards on it plus another XR8 with plates 'catch me' on it. Should start up a listed page with photo of all unmarked cars.

Ok need help. I purchased a 2003 XR6T sedan with t5 which I upgraded with a t56 6spd. Currently tuned via a cappa flash tuner with 275rwkw before I fitted a X-Force exhaust. fitted was Nizpro Valve springs, injectors and Walbro pump. Now I have since approx 10 months ago been trying to be able to tune it myself so I can start to do mods of my own. I purchased a Sniper Commando package which would not read my ecu, it was exchanged for the next updated version which I had to wait for some time, the next unit also would not read my ecu but tried on a friends BA Fairmont and it worked, So was waiting for a solution for some time to which I was offered a exchange ecu once one become available, still no ecu as of june 08 so I requested the alternative in a Xcal 2 as long as it would be fully unlocked so I could make chances whenever required. I received this Xcal 2 and the tunes where suppose to suit my car but had wrong injector calibrations and I was unable to edit tunes or create my own tune as just kept getting errors and locked messages popping up. I was able to run the data logging (Live Link3) which was fantasic. dam 1900 F exhaust valve temps. I could data log the original Capa flash tuner tune but didn't even bother trying to run car for data logging with the custom tunes supplied as it was that rich as like changing back to factory tune. I have informed the workshop of the problem and they have agreed to a full refund. this however does not fix my problem of being able to tune my own car. (Before I have anyone asking if I have the equipment to do so It is yes, I have a dyno I can use) I am waiting on a reply from sct about the Pro tuning software and weather it is compatable with the Livewire tuner for use on my car. If it is I will purchase it. Does anyone know of another option or knows of the Livewire Pro Package to function and allow me to do full adjustments via laptop. I have numerous goodies waiting to be fitted but cant till I sort the tuning out. Iam not going ahead with my engine build until I can do the tuning. Dont fancy paying a workshop $300 plus evertime I change diff ratio or any other changes. if workshops want to protect there tunes allow it, but dont stop everyone who has the know how to create there own tunes on there own vehicle's. keep the vin lock but allow freedom to tune. Instead of capa charging $2000 $2500 for workshop version why dont they do a $500 tune that locks to the vin number so you can tune it only on your car. Workshops would be safe from back yard tuners, the do it yourself person would be happy. Or is the Pro package from SCT just that.

I had purchased a Sniper commando package from BPT and it would not read my ecu, they exchanged it for another with newer software version, still wouldn't read my ecu, tried it in my friends BA mk2 Fairmont and it read it in 30 seconds. Strange thing is my XR6T works with the Capa flash no problems. Any way been near 10 months trying to sort it, just changed it for a Xcal2 which allowed me to data log, and load tunes but I could not access extreme tune or the other 2 programs as it was saying locked and cant read error messages. It would even data log my existing capa flash tune. But the whole reason was to be able to full tune not just data log. Barry BPT cant seem to help in finding why it wont allow me to access the tune files or tune programs. atleast he has agreed to a full refund. But it doesn't help me in being able to start doing my mods I want to do. If I purchased the pro package from SCT would it allow me to tune my car and also allow me to use my existing tunes as a base for my new mods? Getting very dishearten over this as I have always tune my carb v8's for years and I want to start doing mods to my BA. Not going to pay a tuner 300 plus everytime I change a diff ratio or alter my setup. Any help appreicated. PS I also need to know procedure to reprogram my spare key fob remote as battery went flat

I can tell you right now in a single brake application my ap's would sh*t all over the standard setup. Never made a passenger even look like they where going to hit the dash under braking with the standard brakes. But with the AP's I have had a few that have scared me causing me to lift off the brakes so they didnt hit dash. I have tested braking at over 200kph and can tell you that the standard brakes didn't even want to know about stopping. When you say the brembo site comfirms it, was the test carried out on the same average tyre's. If you fit a say like me a pair of ultra high performance tyre's that have great braking ability the standard brakes will not activate the abs unless you suddenly slammed the brakes on, Which you could do even on slicks. So what Iam saying is with the right tyre the big brake package it will out perform the factory setup hands down. The reason I purchased the AP's was because the factory setup was the worst I have ever driven on. This was the First thing I did after purchasing car. Looked into Brembo's but where more exspensive and replacement pads where ridiculess in price. Car Purchased with 275rwkw. Next was Exhaust then Pedders adjust fronts and sports rear susspension. I have had v8 Falcons with over 500hp flywheel and have gotten away with a disk rear and pad upgrade which worked well, but this heavy falcon I would be still thinking the brake differance by just upgrading the pads would not be good enough for my liking. I would have preferred to spend it on building a strong bottom end if I though a upgrade to pads or even upgrade to the bigger disk pbr caliper setup would be enough. Totally agree with the suspension & tyre being most important as if you dont have the traction you cant use the braking abilities of the big kits. What you get with the multi piston calipers is more braking pressure and more even pressure over the brake pad hence should work better. Think about one large piston pushing on the pad then multiple pistons. Can anyone tell me the pad contact area's on the factory pads,Brembo 4pots, brembo 6pots,AP Racing 4's and 6's. Another thing would be piston volume, less volume less pedal movement more effort, more volume more pedal travel less effort also gives better feel. The bigger the pad the better the braking ability. Cobrav8 The 8 pots you are talking about I think are available for I think it was $1500 on ebay. What you need to find out is if they are complied to be fitted to a BA/BF as the brembo's and AP's are. You will need to know if pads are available and at what price. Another thing would be the more pistons the more chance of piston seizing which would occur on poor piston to bore clearance's that could be on inferior quality parts. I feel that the brakes are very important and the tried and tested part should be chosen. Mind you these could be as good in every way a name brand is. If you where to purchase them try to find out what materials are used and what maching process's and tolerance's manufactured to. If all seems comparable to a name brand part or better than factory go for it. Make sure you get full details, if they tell you the caliper is made out of billet find out what grade material is used, find out if the bore's are heat treated, sleeved with Stainless liners, as a soft bore will wear and leak's will be a problem. Piston material as cheap metal will wear and pit quickly. that's the advantage of using a name brand. these brake manufacture's compete for the market share so that means you get a well engineered product. So you wont need to be concerned with materials or manufacturing of the name branded brakes. I choose to go with the 2 piece ROH disks basically for cosmetic reason and could have saved $400 dollars by going with a one piece disk. So around $2850 you could have a great front brake package. I have seen full front & rear AP Racing packages for around the $4500 to $5000 as well. I would not mind upgrading my rears to the BF vented disk setup just to give a little more braking power to the rear even though I dont require it. In doing so may give better balance in a wet emergency situation. Something very important to look at is if you upgrade rear brakes and dont upgrade front suspension you will have your rears locking up due to the weight transfer. Make sure you get advise from a qualified brake specialist before doing changes as if you miss match parts you will end up worse off and be liable. Keep in mind 1 small change can cause many problems and may make your car perform worse. It doesnt matter if you buy the dearest and best parts, if it all doesnt match it wont perform. The more research on changes the better, dont cut corners. Think about what your change can do, like the stress it will put on the next part inline eg big brakes will require better tyre's which inturn will require a stiffer suspension, from there you will have added stress on suspension joints and chassis points. Sorry for long thread but hope it helps some.

I have had fitted front 4 pot AP Racing with 330 2 piece dba slotted rotors and SS braided lines. I could not beleive the differance in braking power. Has anyone been in both a car fitted with these and one fitted with brembos? Would be interesting in seeing if any was better then the other. Had fitted for approx 12mths and still on original pads. and I do use them regularly. Had a emergency once which involve a severe brake workout over approx 10 minutes , had no fade at all, no smoking disks but mind you turbo was glowing more than I have ever seen it before and this was during daylight. I was very impressed. I have had a few people in the car that have been caught unaware of a hard brake and have nearly hit my dash with there head. You need to tell passengers before hitting the brakes hard. Passengers first impression is man this goes, then sh*t I didn't think it would pull up. I get alot of praise on the brake performance. Braking effort is so much lighter as well. I am running Yokahama advan's on the front in 245x35x19. I have never had to use full pressure on the brakes and it worries me a bit as it feels like it would launch the engine/box straight out the front if I used my full strength on the pedal. I know it wont but just get that sort of impression. They cost me $3250.00 fitted by the Brock Shop here in QLD. I have seen plenty of AP Racing packages cheaper since as you always do. The chick who owns the brock shop tells me they own race brakes Australia as well and my replacement pads at time of fitment would cost me $160 for the front. Not sure if it was there pads in my kit or the ones that come with the kit. the pads are very good cold and dont make any annoying sounds, They do give off minor brake dust. They also bleed my fluid out and put the AP Racing fluid in ,Bloody hexy at $45 a 500ml bottle and needing 2. butr I think it was worth it as I said earlier, no fade. At how amazing I have found them, I still cant get over how poor the factory brakes where. If you have the money I would suggest going with the best as you never can have enough brake power in a emergency. Keep in mind you will need rubber that can use the braking power or it will be over kill. Also going with a pad upgrade on your pbr calipers will result in trade offs of cold braking and excessive disk wear.

Very sad news. We are so lucky to have had his impact on our Fords we drive. It was looking very bad for us and he gave us something to be proud of. You will be missed dearly. Thanks for all he has given us. RIP

Good one, was the female sales rep in the car at the time. now that would be a great vid seeing her face under hard breaking and turning.

I had a sunroof in a I had years ago, it was making approx 500hp and the roof was rippling down both sides. this was due to the torque of the car being able to lift the front left wheel clean off the ground. Not sure if the sunroof was the reason for the roof rippling by making it weaker or weather the chassis is not good for the power level I had, prob should have seam welded chassis and fitted a full cage. The Sunroof that was fitted to it was one of those glass slide back jobs with a acrylic deflector at the front. The hole was not rolled edge which may also been the reason to it not having enough strength. I would think if you are not over powering the car it should not hurt it pending if bracing is needed to be removed and if so to be rebraced to give back as much rididity as possible. Make sure the roof gets rolled on the cut out to keep the strenght in the roof skin. My step dad had a factory fitted sunroof in his xy fairmont since new and had no end to seals leaking and cables breaking and by approx 5 years old he siliconed it shut. I think the seal design and quality would be of a far surperior quality and design now though. the person who mentioned the optioned extra Ford rattle, I know how annoying it would be as the roof mount DVD I have in mine rattles a little when on rough roads. Going to remove it as it is a annoying and also a vision blocker. Disadvantage - Extra weight - extra maintenance and costs. - interior gets wet when battery dies and roof open just as the storm hits - flying rubbish may blow in while driving - may affect fuel milage pending how clean the finished fit is advantage - Adds value - if you drive into a river you can escape out of it as the doors wont open due to water pressure. - see police choppers tracking you when running from the police - purve at chicks on walk over bridge's

See Mal for a 2nd hand reco & blueprinted unit, little dearer than a second hand as is unit but worth it, I Have done the same thing and this was my choice. turbo 6 BA-BF are the same. Mal supplied me with my purchase everything required, crossmember mount, tailshaft imput yolk and oil. You need to wire in the reverse shut out solinoid.