Yeah that's the main reason I want a better converter, to get the 4th gear lockup. I'm not even going to try it with my current one, I'm sure it'll fry the clutch and cause me more issues.

Agreed. When you get the new converter a good way to find a start point for lock up is do 2 power runs from very low rpms. One unlocked and the other fully locked. The rpm point where the power lines intersect is roughly where you want to start the lockup or just a smidge before. That nets you the best gains of torque multiplication to start with then 100% converter efficiency out the back. You may be even to lock up in 3rd... The timeslip will let you know . Wish you lived out my way, would love to see it at the Calder Friday night drags.  

This is the other territory I did a built motor and final assembly for recently. Initially tuned to about 550awkw, with more to come after fuel system upgrades. I'll run it on the dyno for the final tune at the same time as mine, so it will be an interesting comparison.

 

So yerp more stuff to fix...

 

Today I fixed the rear door lock mechanism, degreased the engine bay, fitted the coil cover and gave the car a bit of a rinse. Yesterday I fitted my flex fuel sensor and my Innovate 4 way gauge, so today I thought I'd show the missus how good it goes. Antilagged it to 20psi in 3rd gear, pulled a rolling skid, briefly touched 40psi, and it was good. Tried rolling on in 4th to show her the torque and it sheared the flex plate to crank bolts.

 

Haha that's a new record, less than 2 weeks before something broke. Anyway you get that on the big jobs, I'll pull the trans, pull the bolts out and go again. Should be 2 weeks or something like that

4 wheel skid ftw!

It's just the front spinning but it is pretty mental none the less.

What sort of bolts did you have securing the flexplate to crank? Did I read you have an atomic flexplate? I have one with their allen head bolts and schnor washers red loctited, hopefully mine stays tight. Must have serious torque to shear the bolts, what you gonna do to stop it happening again? What bolts you gonna use? And turn boost down a psi or 2?

I have an Atomic flex plate and they were the same bolts that were in it before, 8.8 high tensile. I ditched the Atomic bolts cos one tried to rip itself in half before it torqued up. The new old bolts either can't hold the power or they were farked from being torqued twice.

 

I'm just gonna get a better quality bolt and send it again. Boost isn't getting turned down, too much effort

Had to stop for dinner but pulled it out right after. As I suspected all the bolts are sheared off. Do I try and get them out with the crank in the car or do I save myself some stuffing around and just put another crank in it? They have Loctite on them and are mostly below the surface of the crank, so welding something to them might not be doable and an easy out might struggle too. Could hire a Mag drill to redrill and tap the crank??? Sounds like too much stuffing around...

 

Oh well stuff to think about, at least it's a cheap fix despite the amount of work that goes into it. Beer time

 

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Why does it look like the crank has been welded up or something?

Being grade 8.8 they will drill fair easy. I'd pick the worst one, drill it, and try a easi out.

Atomic also dowel there flex plate still?