You are probably right, but I wouldnt run that power and boost without a surge.

 

1 hour ago, Puffwagon said:

I have a 460 in a modded stock pot which is all you need until you do a "proper" external system. It supported over 20psi on e85.

I have the same set up in the BF Nizpro car (on 98 ), Once we change to E85 I will get Simon to throw in the ID injectors and see how much power till it runs lean. I reckon at not much over 450 it will be done, but I may be surprised.

 

Then we will throw in twin pierberg and crank the boost right up. see how much over 500 we can get the factory turbo. Then larger turbo and hello 600rwkw.

Edited April 28, 20188 yr by arronm

Yeah I had to have over half a tank if I wanted to floor it when it was hooked up.

 

Not ideal by any means but it works.

 

I never checked the return flow so for all I know it could have been close to being pegged.

 

I wouldn't recommend it unless you have a wb installed and know your car.

 

Can you do it? Yes. 

Should you do it? Probably not. 

Yeah they say 680 (98) for single 460 and 540 E85. But they also used to say 500 on E85 with single pierberg.

 

I see now plazmaman has revised it. Bothe romulus and myself in Perth ran lean at high 460s.

 

https://plazmaman.com/product/ford-falcon-babf-fuel-system-single-pump-700hp/

Hope ya pump works well mate.

Worst comes worst, buy a direct drop in. Good luck mate.

Hmm well there you go. I've only road tuned and can only compare my parts with other setups to estimate power and reflect what the pump/pot has done.

 

Onto pumps and pots, it's like anything when modding. Buy parts to build a foundation so you don't spend twice.

Haha all good guys. I'll look into modifying the pot as I hadn't really gone there yet and I will have another go at the hoses then. Current setup should be fine in the meantime.

Unless my fake pump dies first... [emoji3]

Looks weird but after thinking about it , it will probably work 

 

Do the measure like puff said.  Then you will know how much it will compress.  If there is ample room and your clamps are good dont bother re doing it. 

 

 

When I said measure I meant measure from the bottom of the tank to the pot bolt face.  Then compress the pot that distance and see how it looks. 

 

 

Edited April 29, 20188 yr by arronm

Thanks. It may be the only downside of this approach is the installation, but that's done now. And all that meant is 3 mins rather than 3 secs to get the unit in.

I checked the depth from the bottom of the tank to the bolt face (just with a long screwdriver) before I installed it. I can compress way past that point with no kinks.

As long as it's the correct hose and good clamps,will be sweet 

Finally downloaded the PCMTec software, hooked up my cable and sucked out my stock tune.  Happy times ahead!  Or so I thought...

 

My first problem is my desired boost table (auF0306).  It looks like this:

If I look at the stock files for my strategy (HAANFHZ), the table looks much more like what I would have expected:

Similarly the wastegate duty cycle table is a flat 0.45 across the board.  

 

I was of the understanding that the car was unmodified when I bought it, as was the previous owner (who seemed very legit, but who knows about its life before that.)

 

My boost gauge only ever reads about 6 PSI, so it is obviously not even trying to reach the sort of boost that is in the map.  So I'm thinking that maybe the car has been tuned before, but in a very unusual way?

Now that I write that, about 2 and a half years ago I had a new turbo core put in.  I had previously fitted a new boost gauge teed off the BOV and removed the hose from the old gauge to a contraption I assumed was a boost pressure sensor specifically for the gauge. The turbo place that did the CHRA replacement said there was some sort of weird boost control device hooked up to the turbo, which he removed but couldn't work out how it functioned.  I said nah, its just the sensor for the old gauge.

Maybe the car had some sort of boost controller hooked up (I'll see if I still have it floating around the shed for a pic) and the tune boost tables were just zeroed out so that this device did the boost control?  And now that the device is out, the boost I'm getting is just a function of load/WG spring pressure and the WG duty cycle table?

 

Any thoughts or suggestions would be great!  I'm thinking I probably need to reset my boost control tables to match the stock strategy, flash that and see how it behaves?  Or any thoughts on why else my boost tables would be so whacky?

Base fuel table is untouched compared to stock strategy. AFRs are bang-on what I would expect too, so I don't think the tune has been beaten-up too much otherwise.