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[barnz]

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[.Stripes.]

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[barnz]

^^spam circa 1998

[k31th]

#failboat 

[G6ETNZ]

Ford now say they want to try an engine flush and applying 12 volts directly to the solenoids as a possible fix.

 

He insists that the rattle on cold start it has now (apparently) developed is the pistons hitting valves, goes away when warm. I always thought that sort of thing was terminal. Also said that you can't reset by cranking as the spring is too strong and they're stuck in full retard or full advance???? 

 

I've found the parts (in Oz), you guys don't know how lucky you are. If their cheap fix doesn't work, I'll go down that route.

 

Thanks for the advice.

[barnz]

Its actually fairly simple to confirm contact by taking a plug out and using a camera.

[skidxr6t]

39 minutes ago, G6ETNZ said:

Ford now say they want to try an engine flush and applying 12 volts directly to the solenoids as a possible fix.

 

He insists that the rattle on cold start it has now (apparently) developed is the pistons hitting valves, goes away when warm. I always thought that sort of thing was terminal. Also said that you can't reset by cranking as the spring is too strong and they're stuck in full retard or full advance????

 

The stuffed solenoid I had didn't have continuity when tested with multimeter. Ralph's knowledge is correct with holding foot to floor and cranking for 10-20 seconds to reset them. He could probably fix your car while drinking beer, blindfolded and while still in australia if he wanted to.

 

With the rattle we can't be sure without seeing car, I think more likely to be loose turbo bolts/exhaust/etc.

 

Ask them to test continuity on the solenoids. I replaced both in mine even though only one was stuffed and one is open circuit the other is not.

 

 

Edited 09/06/16 02:05 AM by johnxr6t

[Ralph Wiggum]

1 hour ago, G6ETNZ said:

Ford now say they want to try an engine flush and applying 12 volts directly to the solenoids as a possible fix.

 

He insists that the rattle on cold start it has now (apparently) developed is the pistons hitting valves, goes away when warm. I always thought that sort of thing was terminal. Also said that you can't reset by cranking as the spring is too strong and they're stuck in full retard or full advance???? 

LOLWUT why would the pistons no longer kiss the valves when the engine is hot? Clearance tends to reduce when hot not increase. The rattle is more likey empty phasers as they probably aren't recieving any oil pressure. 

 

I've found the parts (in Oz), you guys don't know how lucky you are. If their cheap fix doesn't work, I'll go down that route.

 

Thanks for the advice.

Let them carry out what the want to do (which is actually what ford suggest, apply 12v and flush with solvent. I prefer to use an injector tester to cycle the solenoid while it's submerged in an ultrasonic cleaning bath.)

 

I think your best bet is a cheap fix then get it home and get a decent shop to check it out if the problem reoccurs.

 

Oh and I know I said I wouldn't commet BUT CHANGE YOUR F'N OIL SOONER!!! 7,500kms Max

[G6ETNZ]

13 minutes ago, Ralph Wiggum said:

Let them carry out what the want to do (which is actually what ford suggest, apply 12v and flush with solvent. I prefer to use an injector tester to cycle the solenoid while it's submerged in an ultrasonic cleaning bath.)

 

I think your best bet is a cheap fix then get it home and get a decent shop to check it out if the problem reoccurs.

 

Oh and I know I said I wouldn't commet BUT CHANGE YOUR F'N OIL SOONER!!! 7,500kms Max

I have learnt my lesson I can assure you re the oil changes. I just kept putting it off and ....... anyway.

 

I asked them to clean the turbo filter while they're at it and they said you don't clean them, just replace.

 

On the oil front, Ford in Auckland put in Castrol Edge 5-30, down here Ford say 15-40?? I haven't had oil of that grade since the '80s

[Ralph Wiggum]

5/30 will be fine given the relativly mild temps down your way.

 

Best way to to clean the turbo filter is to pitch it clean over your shoulder into the bin and either run without (as I do) or run an external aftermarket unit.