All the pistons have carbon deposit on them with little clean circles where the intake valve is (fuel cleans them). I don't believe that the firing ring was leaking yet, oil/coolant were still clean and the engine was running fine. Number 6 where the external leak is happens to be the dirtiest but I think that's just a coincidence.

There was a lot of oil in the intake runners when I was pulling it down which is probably contributing to the carbon but it compression tested about 180psi +/- 2.5PSI across the board and the bores look good so I'm just going to in pretend that is normal

When I throw it back in, I might bypass the PCV system and make a road draft tube to help reduce this.

Mine leaks coolant externally from the head gasket, rear driver's side of the engine too. PITA!!!

Mine leaks coolant externally from the head gasket, rear driver's side of the engine too. PITA!!!

I think they all do

Pulled the sump off last night and was happy to find the missing piece of chain guide. I'm curious to know how long it's been down there.

Wheel cleaner works really well on aluminium, I figured the sump is basically a large mis-shaped alloy wheel

Started cleaning up the block. Used a scraper to get the remaining head gasket off, cleaned with some brake cleaner, then lubricated with inox and used a sharpening stone to tidy it up.

The sharpening stone exposed some pitting around the affected area. It looks worse in the picture than it actually is. I'm going to return with some fresh inox and give it a few more hits with the sharpening stone and see what it looks like. In a perfect world it should probably be machined but I really don't have the time or money at the moment. I'm going to be using a MLS gasket which should have more give than the single layer stock gasket and use Hylomar on installation to help fill the gaps.

We just repaired a car with weeping coolant at exhaust side No 5 at the head gasket. I picked it up within a week and the block was like new.

Looks like you have left yours to long, the head gasket may not seal. Just get the block decked. Or you maybe pulling the engine out again.

Dont forget to get new head bolts.

mmm, I regret not doing it sooner but that's life. The photo makes it look worse than it is. You can feel the pitting but can't catch a nail in it.

I'll remove the dowels and give it a good hit with the stone and make a decision from there.

Do you know if the block can be decked with the internals installed?

EDIT: ARP studs should be in the mail today

Edited 29/08/14 12:45 AM29/08/14 12:45 AM by timwds

I would do all the core plugs at the same time. Use stainless steel plugs

A stock Ford MLS with no sealer will not fix anything. MLS really need a sealer IMO.

You said you are going to use Hylomar which people have used with success. The spray one is easiest to use and I read the other day its like loctite, it dries hard in the absense of oxygen. I never new that so although I tried it many years ago, I didn't have confidence in it cause I never saw it harden.

I have used white 3 Bond 1211 but its very hard to use and you worry about sealing up passages. But it does work well when done right.

Even on freshly machined surfaces MLS will leak around the water passages. There is a gasket I saw the other day with a black coating that might be OK but pricey at about $250. But in anycase I like a sealant. If you use a sealant I wouldn't worry about machining the surfaces unless really bad. Many times if not a good machininist with a good machine they will make it worse thant what you already have.

+1 for hylomar. If it can get range Rover head gaskets to stop slobbering it'll work a treat in you application.

I just looked at the Hylomar website. There used to be a spray one but couldn't see it.

Have you a link to the spray one? or the one to be used.

Nah, but I bought a can only a couple of months ago from cov's