***VX*R8***

I'm using them with Nordlock washers and they have stayed tight since.

Yep its a v-band system. I will try and get some pics up when I get a chance.

I have had this exhaust on my car for 3+ months now. I had to remove the cradle to swap diffs anyway so having to drop the cradle wasnt an issue for me. I found it relatively easy to fit (at home on stands) but did have to adjust it once (to be expected) after driving because it was tapping over the cradle once the system got hot. After re-adjusting it I havent had a problem though. I do find it hangs a little low in the mid-section but nothing too crazy. As for sound, I really liked the quietness of my standard catback (with 4" XFORCE dump), so I was really concerned/expexting there would be excessive loudness and drone from the 4" exhaust, but have instead been pleasantly surprised. After first fitting the exhaust it was fairly droney at low revs but after driving it for a few days the drone significantly improved. It is a little loud on cold start but I would expect that. At idle and when cruising I do not find it droney or too loud. Accelerating at low revs it can drone a little but nothing unbearable and no more than I would expect from an automatic car with a large exhaust. The note when decelerating off throttle is very nice. I cant really comment on W.O.T sound because I have a screamer pipe now. I have also had many people comment on the how they like the sound of the car now. Power is at 429rwkw@20psi. I paid about $1200 after EBay discounts, which I believe made this system exceptional value. All in all I have been very happy with the fit, finish, sound and price of the system. Communication with Ultrex via FB messenger was very good too.

Hahaha. I have no idea why it put question marks there.

That's what I was hoping to hear I have a removal tool just like that and a bearing press set that should hopefully have a piece that will work to press the seal on. Thankyou ???

Does anyone know if its "do-able" or does anyone have experience changing the LHS axle/driveshaft seal with the diff in place? Car is an FG TURBO SEDAN. I recently swapped the diff in my G6ET and I believe it's now leaking from the LHS seal. I'm hoping I can get away with not dropping the cradle ? In hindsight I probably should've changed these as a precaution while the diff was out ? Thanks in advance.

Yeah I put a gasket in and replaced the studs and nuts when I changed the turbo (GTX3582R). Very happy with how they held up though. Really wish I hadn't just unbolted the turbo to get the mani machined now though, lol. I thought it would flex and bolt up straight too. Last time I had it off someone told me to get it machined but I figured it would be ok. Each runner face (?) is straight. Just the manifold as a whole is warped. I bought a stud and copper nut kit last time but found I couldn't get the manifold over the studs due to something being in the way (possibly PS), but I will try again. Do you loctite the threads going into the block? I'm guessing no. I'm confident the head is still flat/straight. The bolts would loosen over time but there wasn't a major leak. I already have some Nordlocks ready to go too :D

How common is it for the turbo exhaust manifold to warp where it meets the head? I've been having to tighten the manifold bolts every so often and decided to get the manifold machined flat. The guy at the shop (head reconditioner) suggested buying another manifold as it will need around 5mm taken out. Ford want $1200 and "I have heard" it's very common so a used one will likely be just as bad. Has anyone had this issue and if so how did you resolve it?? ps- the turbo to manifold studs and nuts have held strong and the gasket hasn't leaked there, only from manifold to head... Thankyou.

I've already got the bushes and 3x diffs sorry, haha. THANKS HEAPS!!! for the size. That's exactly what I was after :D

I have 4" dump, no cat, and then stock catback at the moment and love how quiet it is, but still makes noise at full throttle. The car makes 500rwhp (370rwkw?) but tuner says a 4" is a good idea. Also going to be tuning for E85 after the exhaust is on.

I bought the Superpro polyelast bushes for the diff. I know there will be a decent NVH increase but I'll be fitting a 4" exhaust (would prefer to keep the stock catback but the tuner strongly recommended 4") at the same time so that will probably mask it a bit I'm guessing.

I'm swapping the open diff for an LSD and changing all the rear bushes while the cradle etc is out. I have a spare cradle and arms so was going to get the spare cradle, spare arms and LSD diff all bolted up together to minimise downtime. But if I can't get the bolt specs easily it's no big deal to just swap them over once the old cradle is out. Hopefully that makes some sense...

South Brisbane, thanks heaps for the offer though.

Sorry. On the off chance someone has had to buy new ones, somewhere other than Ford. Could someone please tell me what length the diff bolts (more so the large centre one) are which secure the diff to the cradle, in a white, 2011 G6E Turbo sedan? The car has roughly 120,000kms, black leather interior and original floor mats. Oh wait, although I was more specific, I guess I could still just get "yes" as an answer :( nevermind.

Does anyone know the size and thread type needed for FG Turbo Sedan Diff bolts? Thanks in advance.

I'm looking at upgrading the shocks in my G6ET. I currently have stock shocks with King springs all round (SSL/SSSL) . I'm happy with the height it is now so was looking at keeping the King springs and upgrading the shocks to Koni Reds. I want something that handles a fair bit better but still fairly smooth and quiet for everyday driving. My question is, will the Koni Reds handle as well (or close to) as a full height adjustable coilover or would I be better off going with the full adj. coilovers? I'm pretty much torn between Koni Reds and K-Sport or BC coilovers... Thanks in advance ***Before anyone says it*** I would go with Shockworks but am not looking to spend that much unfortunately.

$17 lol

I'm pretty confident they got the CHRA orientation correct, but when I dummy fit again to clock the front housing like you said, I will dummy fit the oil and coolant lines to double check but the coolant return and oil feed did match up... They used an adjustable (slotted holes where it bolts to housing) actuator bracket. And thankfully there is enough adjustment from where they set it that the actuator can remain in the same position when I clock the housing counter clockwise. And the actuator arm is threaded/adjustable. It's a bit annoying cos I was going to set the turbo up before taking it to MTQ but they said not to because they would 'orientate' the housings correctly for the standard manifold anyway...

I decided to get MTQ to make the bracket and set the wastegate up etc but they clocked the front housing wrong. I've clocked it so it sits like this now (thankfully there was enough adjustment in the actuator bracket, but obviously I'll have to recheck the preload now) : My question is before I do the final fit and connect everything up...does this position look right for the front housing now? Thankyou

Ok, thankyou very much

Yeah, I've never even attempted to weld anything in my life haha. I have an MTQ not far away so I might go see if they have a bracket that fits tomorrow. The actuator I have has the threaded rod on the back and I have an angled arm that looks like it will line up well (fingers crossed). Is there anything to watch out for when setting preload?? Thankyou

GAAAY!!! I thought everything was supposed to be a straight swap over :( I think I can make it fit by drilling a new (middle) hole in the bracket and elongating another a little and using an angled actuator rod I have here... Does anyone happen to have pics of their modded bracket, please Thanks for the replies.

I'm fitting a GTX3582R (Supercore) to my G6ET and noticed the standard (3576r) wastegate actuator bracket doesn't line up on the GTX. What has everyone done to get around this? Slot the holes on the standard bracket? Or does somewhere sell a bracket that fits? Thankyou.

I'm from Brisbane Southside, so if you need a hand with anything let me know. I'll PM you my number. PS- I have a used gt3582r sitting here that I was going to use but have since bought a GTX35.

I'm not really worried about the sound, I've had a few Jap cars and have a cammed LS1 (sssshhhh) and I'm actually kind of enjoying the quietness of the G6E. I was even thinking of keeping the stock catback (4" dump and 100cell cat though) if it won't hold power back too much. But I went to the track in my friend's 845hp Supra on the weekend and it got me wondering if there isn't a turbo with a bit more headroom than the GTX35 but within a couple of hundred rpm of the GTX35 response wise...