A Rough 0-100 Time For 286Rkw Fg Xr6 Turbo Zf?

[mike0819]

I'm making 286rkw on a 2010 xr6 turbo zf, done 44k, with nitro 275 35 18 tyres rear and bilstem spring, I never got a chance to test out the 0-100 time, would any one give me a rough time for a car with this kind of power level? and one more question, best time should I keep the traction control on or off? do I just let it stall to 2000rom and floor the gas? does it kill my transmition driving this way?

[Bizkets is Drunk?]

get in your car, find a private road and time it with your phone. its not going to be exact but a rough idea as everyones car is different.

[barnz]

The torque app does a reasonably accurate 0-100

[discostig]

Better yet use a laptop and live link if you have an xcal unit. If I was at home I'd show you a nice graph where my bf ran up 4.6 seconds on standard road surface.

Edited 22/05/14 10:50 AM by -SteveR-

[Never had any say Panda]

Buy one of these:

http://www.vericomcomputers.com/Runway%20Friction%20Meter%204000X.html

Charge all your mates to test their cars too.. Use the friction app to calculate what it could have done in perfect conditions.

Then have scientific bragging rights on all car forums online..

[Phoon508]

Anyone still using the g-tech gizmos? I was always meaning to buy one. But if there are better and cheaper options ill look elsewhere.

[Panda Eyes]

5 secs

[22470]

I've got a standard untuned FG XR6T Auto (December 2009 build owned by me since new) and it made 262 RWKW on a Dyno Dynamics machine. The engine was treated fairly agressively on the Dyno and it seems clear that the Overboost feature was working, the boost was around 10.5 lbs (it's around 1.6 lbs lower without the Overboost). So if the Dyno's were similar (and that's hard to know of course) that means you've got around 9% more power. This machine was no "Happy Dyno", I've seen quite a few car's run on it.
On the subject of the transmission. At just above a 2000 rpm stall up, it seems to move from one mode into another. In saying that I mean that the brakes are likely to creak and you can notice the car pulling harder. An expert tuner has confirmed that this shouldn't hurt the transmission (I'm talking about a standard untuned car here) and that's supported by the acceleration data from the cars first two runs at WSID last Wednesday night, see the 0 - 100 kph data below.
The first run was done with a second gear launch (keep in mind that second is high enough to run to over 110 kph) and the stall up was as described above. The next run was carried out in Drive so it was a first gear launch, but the stall up was just a fraction lower. However in spite of the very different gear ratios involved, both times were almost equal to 40 kph, so I think that shows how effective the slightly higher stall can be, provided there is enough grip of course.
But does it hurt the transmission in a standard untuned car?
Well, notice that the second gear launch 0 - 10 kph time was 0.43 sec, and the acceleration rate improved after that even though the torque multiplication from the Converter should have been reducing, and between 40 and 50 (the point where I believe the converter would have locked up) the acceleration rate was only slightly slower (0,44 sec) and there would have been at least some wind drag at this speed. So the gearbox input shaft appeared to be getting a similar torque load at this point to what it was handling at the start. With your car being modified though, you might want to check on what your tuner has done with the torque management system and what he thinks is safe. I make sure that the stall up is as brief as possible.
The times below were measured with my GPS based Racelogic Performance Box. These units are commonly used by car testers around the world and they are very accurate.
The Dragstrip 1/4 mile timing system recorded a 12.731 sec time for the run with the second gear launch, and 12.509 for the run in Drive, there was no apparent wheelspin on these runs.

92 kg driver, no burnout before the runs, total load was the equivalent of just over half a tank of fuel, full sized spare tyre and jack etc in the car, temp 18 to 19 degrees C, new Goodyear Eagle F1 Directional tyres at 38 psi.
Just prior to arriving at the track the car was driven more agressively than normal to make sure that the transmission would hold onto the gears as long as possible at the dragstrip, and while waiting for the runs the bonnet was up.
Also I've found that it's best to have a fairly low fuel load and if necessary put some ballast at the back of the car in the boot. A relatively small percentage of weight at the back can give a good grip yield.
Another point to note is that on one occasion just prior to a 0 - 100 kph run, I gave the car a high stall up and the brakes failed to hold, so I eased off and and tried again. The result was a 0 - 100 time that was at least half a second slower than it should have been. It seems to me that the Overboost feature was disabled by what happened.
SECOND GEAR LAUNCH............................LAUNCH IN DRIVE
0.............0.............0................................0...............0................0
10........0.43.........0.64............................10............0.45............0.64
20........0.85.........2.40.............................20...........0.84............2.25
30........1.24.........5.13.............................30...........1.23............4.95
40........1.64.........9.01.............................40...........1.61............8.65
50........2.09........14.64............................50...........1.98...........13.29
60........2.61.........22.54...........................60...........2.37...........19.37
70........3.15.........32.35...........................70...........2.88...........28.49
80........3.70.........43.78...........................80...........3.43...........40.07
90........4.25.........56.88...........................90...........4.00...........53.50
100......4.85 sec...72.51 metres...............100.........4.62 sec....69.68

To get an idea of the cars potential (grip permitting of course), I am posting 0 - 40 data from a 0 - 100 run that was carried out at high altitude (0 - 100 in 4.56 seconds with the higher stall) and I'm combining that time with the above 40 - 100 data from the second run.
0...........0
10........0.28

20........0.64

30........1.03

40........1.41 in 8.41 metres

40........1.41

50........1.78

60........2.17

70........2.68

80........3.23

90........3.80

100......4.42 secs to 100 kph in 69.44 metres.

I intend to get the car tuned when the hot weather returns and I would be interested in buying a EURO 4 Cat to go with the tune and some F6 injectors that I have purchased. If anybody has one to sell, I'd like to hear from them.

[22470]

I've got a standard untuned FG XR6T Auto (December 2009 build owned by me since new) and it made 262 RWKW on a Dyno Dynamics machine. The engine was treated fairly agressively on the Dyno and it seems clear that the Overboost feature was working, the boost was around 10.5 lbs (it's around 1.6 lbs lower without the Overboost). So if the Dyno's were similar (and that's hard to know of course) that means you've got around 9% more power. This machine was no "Happy Dyno", I've seen quite a few car's run on it.
On the subject of the transmission. At just above a 2000 rpm stall up, it seems to move from one mode into another. In saying that I mean that the brakes are likely to creak and you can notice the car pulling harder. An expert tuner has confirmed that this shouldn't hurt the transmission (I'm talking about a standard untuned car here) and that's supported by the acceleration data from the cars first two runs at WSID last Wednesday night, see the 0 - 100 kph data below.
The first run was done with a second gear launch (keep in mind that second is high enough to run to over 110 kph) and the stall up was as described above. The next run was carried out in Drive so it was a first gear launch, but the stall up was just a fraction lower. However in spite of the very different gear ratios involved, both times were almost equal to 40 kph, so I think that shows how effective the slightly higher stall can be, provided there is enough grip of course.
But does it hurt the transmission in a standard untuned car?
Well, notice that the second gear launch 0 - 10 kph time was 0.43 sec, and the acceleration rate improved after that even though the torque multiplication from the Converter should have been reducing, and between 40 and 50 (the point where I believe the converter would have locked up) the acceleration rate was only slightly slower (0,44 sec) and there would have been at least some wind drag at this speed. So the gearbox input shaft appeared to be getting a similar torque load at this point to what it was handling at the start. With your car being modified though, you might want to check on what your tuner has done with the torque management system and what he thinks is safe. I make sure that the stall up is as brief as possible.
The times below were measured with my GPS based Racelogic Performance Box. These units are commonly used by car testers around the world and they are very accurate.
The Dragstrip 1/4 mile timing system recorded a 12.731 sec time for the run with the second gear launch, and 12.509 for the run in Drive, there was no apparent wheelspin on these runs.

92 kg driver, no burnout before the runs, total load was the equivalent of just over half a tank of fuel, full sized spare tyre and jack etc in the car, temp 18 to 19 degrees C, new Goodyear Eagle F1 Directional tyres at 38 psi.
Just prior to arriving at the track the car was driven more agressively than normal to make sure that the transmission would hold onto the gears as long as possible at the dragstrip, and while waiting for the runs the bonnet was up.
Also I've found that it's best to have a fairly low fuel load and if necessary put some ballast at the back of the car in the boot. A relatively small percentage of weight at the back can give a good grip yield.
Another point to note is that on one occasion just prior to a 0 - 100 kph run, I gave the car a high stall up and the brakes failed to hold, so I eased off and and tried again. The result was a 0 - 100 time that was at least half a second slower than it should have been. It seems to me that the Overboost feature was disabled by what happened.
SECOND GEAR LAUNCH............................LAUNCH IN DRIVE
0.............0.............0................................0...............0................0
10........0.43.........0.64............................10............0.45............0.64
20........0.85.........2.40.............................20...........0.84............2.25
30........1.24.........5.13.............................30...........1.23............4.95
40........1.64.........9.01.............................40...........1.61............8.65
50........2.09........14.64............................50...........1.98...........13.29
60........2.61.........22.54...........................60...........2.37...........19.37
70........3.15.........32.35...........................70...........2.88...........28.49
80........3.70.........43.78...........................80...........3.43...........40.07
90........4.25.........56.88...........................90...........4.00...........53.50
100......4.85 sec...72.51 metres...............100.........4.62 sec....69.68

To get an idea of the cars potential (grip permitting of course), I am posting 0 - 40 data from a 0 - 100 run that was carried out at high altitude (0 - 100 in 4.56 seconds with the higher stall) and I'm combining that time with the above 40 - 100 data from the second run.
0...........0
10........0.28

20........0.64

30........1.03

40........1.41 in 8.41 metres

40........1.41

50........1.78

60........2.17

70........2.68

80........3.23

90........3.80

100......4.42 secs to 100 kph in 69.44 metres.

I intend to get the car tuned when the hot weather returns and I would be interested in buying a EURO 4 Cat to go with the tune and some F6 injectors that I have purchased. If anybody has one to sell, I'd like to hear from them.

[Panda Eyes]

well done