Rda Rotors Are Garbage.

[Pazzo]

Has no problems with the RDAgold on my BF.. On there for 30000+ Ks.

[Bellato]

Waiting for Bomber to chime in here. He's been running the RDA slotted and did have remsa pads but I think he has qfm's now. Pretty surehe did powercruise with them and rates them as good value for money. I'll let him confirm that though

[rednose]

Ever gone to the track and done hard stops from 200kph?

I have the RDA with HPX pads and have had to pull up the car from speeds in excess of 128 MPH, over 50 times.

Cannot fault the combo.

Edited 17/03/13 11:30 PM by rednose

[Impellor]

Same combo as Rednose, no dramas either. HPX pads are bloody good, and SFA dust.

Cheers

[FPVF6355]

Had the brakes apart a few times, everything seems fine, no seized calipers or slides etc, car not pulling harder on one side.

will have another look this arvo, if no conclusion I'll ditch them.

These aren't rda gld they are the cheaper ones, street use only.

If they are not up to the job, beacuse they're not 'gold' why sell em.

[FPVF6355]

Ok, they are both blueing between the slots.

Any chance they are on the wrong side and not cooling properly ?

Slots are sloping backwards. which is how they were marked L, R. (stickers)

My thought is maybe they were marked L and R incorrectly ??

pads are green stuff EBC from memory, definately green.

[rockafellqeinstien]

rda cheap slotted here with QFM A1RM‎ - flog the crap out of them and I just have to re bed them every 15,000 kms (a few solid stops from 90kmph) to stop glazing.

I have never seen a warped disc (put mine on my lathe all the time to check) usually always glazing or hotspots - which is pad or pad/disc incompatibility

[gsd112]

had my rda rotors and remsa pads for 10,000kms know and love them no issues other than a s%&t load of dust from the remsa pads.

[FPVF6355]

Ok, I found a brake guy, who makes brakes for race cars, and builds race cars, and also sells his own brake systems UPC.

I showed him the issue, and what he said made alot of sense.

"The problem with falcons, first is the wheel bearings are small (same used on ford lazers)

The hub is also cast, and the bearings are rolling in the casting, not a second race.

He showed me one.

He said what happens is the undersized bearings get hot and warp the hub face, this inturn transfers a runnout to the disk, and causes pad drag,

Secondly " The RDA and DRB rotors are too hard, with hard pads, the heat build up is too much"

He said you are better off with softer pads, and preferably softer rotors. (I get hardly any brake dust on my front wheels)

He also said he use to sell the 325mm rotors, but they are not that much in demand, so he had none left.

So his advice was get new hubs / bearings (genuine with Jap bearings), new rotors, and softer pads.

[rockafellqeinstien]

interesting

So you can get a non-cast replacement HUB for our cars from Jap?

I like the theory but still - every case I have seen of so called warped disc has been glazing/hotspots. they have all been true when put on a lathe. I have also mesured run out whilst on the car - even easier with a magnetic holder with the dial caliper mounted. this makes sense because the shudder occures at high speed and also low speed when pads are bone cold but still have basically zero run out

not saying he is wrong but if it is warping rotors you'd have to see run out somewhere (unless it only warps at high speed and then back to normal - but then you wouldnt get shudder at low speed which ever one does)

Put a dial caliper on the rotor (while the wheel is on) and check your run out first and foremost

on a side topic - I have had my rotors glowing red more than once - no ill effects