Best of the old and new. Turbo barra with a tricked up C4 backed up by a bullet proof 9 inch I would be guessing.

Brings back memories of my XY ute

2 pac with with turquoise grille and highlights 351 C4 9 inch with 4.11's detroit locker. Memories.....

11 hours ago, JETURBO said:

The old C4 hey, should take a mild beat up ok  

Will get it done. Billet 4 gear roller front planet set, billet c servo 2nd gear, chrome moly forward ring gear hub, hituf input shaft, roller thrust bearings, 6 clutch top gear, torque power bellhousing. The trans builder is extremely well respected. He has many living happily behind Barras.

 

Just couldn't do the two speed thing and TH400's are heavy and the tunnel would have required a massage and custom cross member. This will bolt straight up.

Well, after nearly getting shafted on what was meant to be a 30k FG XR6T MK2 engine - that turned out to be a green top with a lick of red paint, I'm considering my options.

 

The BA mock up dunger in the car at the moment was intended for scrap eventually but... I have access to some FG Turbo rods and was thinking maybe just put some half decent slugs on them. It's done 170k so hopefully would just take a quick hone. 

 

Either go full povo and just check piston and rods weights or, get the rotating assembly rebalanced. Clean the head up, fit PAC springs, head studs, oil pump gears and new guides. Bare bones basics.

 

Given the amount of people I see using $200 N/A engines in X series conversions now with low boost, I'm sure a freshened up one with FG rods and say Ross pistons would get it done. 400rwkw is seriously as much as I want or need to run in the old girl.    

 

My question to those that really know these engines, is what's really the difference between N/A and Turbo heads and Cam profiles? I've been told something about the valves but haven't got a definitive answer.  

 

Found this interesting too:  

Conrods and Pistons
Q: Do I need to rebalance my engine if I fit Atomic conrods to my XR6-T?
A: As the engine is an inline configuration, the conrod and piston weights are not a function of the balance factor of the engine (as they are in a V configuration engine), so they can be installed without rebalancing the engine.

Edited 06/01/17 02:27 AM06/01/17 02:27 AM by Bomber

cams I'm not sure about (pretty sure they're different, but maybe not ) , but the head is the same between N/A and Turbo except inconel exhaust valves in the BA.

Ba cams are different to Bf.  The later are better.  FG cams fall to bits......

 

With rods and pistons, just match weight to the lightest.

Do you spin the crank up again if changing rods and slugs?

Have sourced a decent BFII Typhoon engine for the nugget

so soon?

 

 

 

The purists aren't going to be happy but all going to plan, I'm hoping to run the Haltech IQ3 Street display.

 

I've chopped into a spare facia to get an idea of how I'd make a flat area for the panel, plus create space for other gauges such as eboost2, start button, etc. 

 

After doing the mock-up in cardboard plus putting some photos to scale on it, I'm happy with how it would look.

 

I'll now get an aluminium infill made with the intention to glass it in then blend in and refinish as close to factory (in black) as possible. I'll back mask and do some chrome highlights around the border etc. The original warnings (park brake and so on) I'll probably leave dead as the IQ Street has them incorporated. 

 

       

 

                              

Edited 19/03/17 12:36 AM19/03/17 12:36 AM by Bomber

loving the progress updates, bomber!