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Who Like`s Tools? (Merged Topic)

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DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly-stained heirloom piece you were drying.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned guitar calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "YEOWW SHOOOT...."

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age.

SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. Most often the tool used by all women

BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of.

WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 inch socket you've been searching for the last 45 minutes

TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle.

TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters and wire wheel wires.

E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit. It snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible future use.

RADIAL ARM SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to scare neophytes into choosing another line of work.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.

CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A very large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.

TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws.

AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts which were last over tightened 30 years ago by someone at VW, and instantly rounds off their heads. Also used to quickly snap off lug nuts.

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent to the object we are trying to hit. Women primarily use it to make gaping holes in walls when hanging pictures.

MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.

DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "DAMMIT" at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.

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I've been looking around recently for a few things but all the usual places just seem to carry rubbish. Where abouts would one go to get good quality tools?

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I get most of my stuff through my wholesalers, and are mostlt sparky related... but,

RS Componets - any sort of metering gear, or electronic stuff.

Trade tools - Just got a MASSIVE discount off a hitachi 4 piece cordless kit.

Glenfords - got my first ever drill through them.

Felix

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most of the cheaper tools are OK if they are not being used day in day out

bit like the jack and wheel spanner in your car they do the job but if you are using them every 5 minutes they are cheap crap so depends what you want

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I cant go wrong with kincrome, every "tool" out there has a good and a bad story but I figure for the price u cant go wrong...

compared to sumthing like "snap on" u can buy 3 kincrome sets for 1 of snap on... good quality yes but hardly worth the cash their asking for their gear!!

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king crome usually have specials on socket set and mosty toolds really but you can buy kits off king crome which comes with the tool box and trolley and all the comonly used tools these kits start at about 1400 but well worth it

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I bought a Sidchrome kit and have been really happy with it. The only real difference between Kincrome and Sidchrome is the way the metal is tempered.

The Kincrome are a softer metal, and will 'bend' and will lose its shape if u apply excessive force, whereas the Sidchrome will snap as they are harder and more brittle...

I am pretty sure both brands come with a life time replacement warrenty anyway, they will replace it with a brand new spanner/socket etc. except if u lose it...

Edited by Mr Man

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If you do not use Tools a lot, then I would get the SuperTool brand from supercrap auto as a good starting point.

I have heaps of Sidcrome and Snapon brands in the toolbox and bought some Supertool extras. I must say they are very good quality for the price. They fit well and also are strong.

I bought a whole 96 piece 1/2" socket set for the cost of one sidchrome 1/2" rachet.

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I know what your saying zap but I would prefer to have something that I know is accurate and know that will last especially when it comes to measuring tools.

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I'd rather buy something that I know is accurate and is going to last rather than have something cheap that will get you by.

Bear in mind that a torque wrench is only as accurate as the last time it was calibrated.... :spoton:

i cant go wrong with kincrome, every "tool" out there has a good and a bad story but i figure for the price u cant go wrong...

compared to sumthing like "snap on" u can buy 3 kincrome sets for 1 of snap on... good quality yes but hardly worth the cash their asking for their gear!!

Very true but the quality of Snap On has pulled me out of the sh*t many a time. Nuthin will touch a rusted half seized rounded off bolt like a Snap On flank drive...and i'd sell me missus before i'd give um my 36" 3/8 drv Snap On transmission extension...worth its weight in gold..! :spoton:

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