Trans Cooler Install

[arronm]

Bypass it all and join with 5/8 heater hose.

 

[hawlass]

Arronm , on the back of the valve (center of the above diagram )  it has a hose joined to the block, which is where the 5/8 heater hose will connect - correct?

So, what I really would like to know IS..    what is that fitting on the block behind the valve I am connecting to?

Is it a metal pipe/ barb or something less useable?

[arronm]

It will just be a metal pipe.  Slip the hose over and use a worm drive clamp. All the rest of the ancillaries just runs in series

[hawlass]

perfect, thanks mate.

[Ralph Wiggum]

Engine pipe sizing is closer to 19mm aka 3/4 Engine oil cooler pipes are 16mm aka 5/8

[hawlass]

Cheers Mr Wiggum, dont suppose you have an image of the pipe exiting the block behind the valve thingo?

[arronm]

Metal pipe coming from front of engine joins to metal pipe coming from rear of engine.  I think ralph is correct 3/4 ID

[hawlass]

So I battled the heat exchanger on the weekend and won! Heres some pics to help the next poor sod who wants to try this.

I had the use of a hoist, cant imagine doing it without one. The hose clamps on the exchanger valve are a bairch to get off- just crap access. 

 

These are the two pipes you're left with after removing the milkshake factory/ heat exchanger. (red arrows)

The chromed one comes from the thermostat housing, and the other one disappears around the back of the engine, to the heater taps I guess- didn't bother to check. Both 19mm.

 

 

This is the pipe I used to join them, its just a universal 19mm z pipe.

Its a Mackay ZHB19 . I cut the right angle portion to match what the heat exchanger valve was end to end and on she went.

 

 

Its easy enough once you get the factory setup off.

 

Next I dropped the trans sump to replace the mechatronix cable plug/shroud that was leaking then all back together with a new filter and hooked up the feed hose to the new oil to air cooler.

I was advised by my trans guy when replacing this part, to NOT touch any of the electrical pins etc so as to avoid static electricity munting the computer inside.

A mate loaned me his trans fluid pump which screws onto the 20l drum, made life much easier.

I had the return from the cooler in a bucket and once I had filled the trans with fluid I started the car and kept pumping more fluid in until I was happy with the colour of the fluid from the return hose.

 

 

These are the fittings I used on the trans end, hose barbs are 19mm (1/2")

 

 

Pro tip- the bottom hose is the oil out to the trans cooler, Top is oil returning into the trans.

If you get that wrong and start the car with nothing in the bottom port you will be scrubbing concrete with dergreaser for a while - Trust me!

This is what you should see if your doing it right first time ( not like me)

 

 

 

Once the fluid was clean in the return line I hooked it back up to the top port , adjusted the fluid level as per ZF specs and started the clean up!

 

 

I used a bunch of zip ties to keep the hoses away from everything to avoid chaffing/cutting the hoses on anything.

 

 

Many thanks to Arronm , Jeturbo and Ralph Wiggum for their input.

Edited 31/10/16 08:48 AM by hawlass

[ROB83R]

That valve is a kent of a thing to get out. My hands are too big to get in there. I might have another stab at it soon. I think mine is starting to weep. 

[hawlass]

Your not wrong Rob, if I did it again I think a small pair of needle nose vice grips along with a pair of poly grips would be your best bet.

And a knife to cut the hose off once you get the clamps off. I found it easier to slide the clamp back onto the steel pipe rather than try to get it further onto the hose.

 

Also, when draining the trans- make sure you have a 17mm hex key / socket for the drain plug otherwise its pretty messy.

The fill plug is 8mm , for some reason I thought the drain was too- wrong!