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  • Colossal Member
  • Member
  • Member For: 22y 23d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, WA
Posted

My tweeters are mounted in the stock position, and yes it is fiddly getting the speaker wire through the doors. As the crossover is in the doors you need to have two wires going through the grommet.

To get into the grommet, you need to do the following...

Remove the rubber surround from the plastic connector in the door frame (it slips off like a franger :tease: )

Feed the grommet back along the wiring and poke it through the hole in the door

Remove kick panels on the inside of the car. It is VERY tight to get your hands in there.

The plastic connector can come apart from the metal of the door frame, it has a clip at the top and the bottom

Feed wire from the outside to the inside of the car, through the connector (there is a gap at the top and bottom of the connector), feed lots in til u can feel it coil up inside the car.

Feed the other end through the grommet and pull through to the door subframe.

Once you have both ends of both cables where you want them, replace the grommet over the plastic connector BEFORE reinserting it into the door frame. Then you can simply click the connector back into place and it will be nicely sealed. Dont forget to put the grommet back into the hole in the door also.

Sorry I dont have pics of this proceedure, but if you sit there for half an hour and fiddle with it you will see what I mean. It's a :spoton: of a job.

I used 12mm MDF, and it has to be quite specifically aligned to allow the door panel to be replaced without obstruction. From those pics u will see u need to trim some of the plastic away with a stanley knife (I used a pair of chunky pliers also, make a slice and it will snap off with the pliers).

I hope this helps and doesnt confuse you :spit:

  • Like 1
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 21y 1m 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melb
Posted

Yeah.. I was thinking along those lines anyways.. just gotta get myself a 4ch amp to power up the front bastards first :)

might make the 12mm mdf brackets first.. Got a tracing router bit, so I might make a number of them if anyone else wants any..

dan.

  • Colossal Member
  • Member
  • Member For: 22y 23d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, WA
Posted

I wired mine to my head unit, it wont be hard to run new wires to the fronts when I get an amp for them... just tape the new wire to the old one and pull it through. Dont even need to take the grommet off. Alternatively I could just solder the new wire to the existing wire... bobs your auntie.

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 23y 13d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Townsville
Posted

I did a mates boot on his Mazda 6 sedan with the cheaper stuff and it worked great, stopped all the rattle in the boot lid anyway with a Jona Lomu 15" bashing 140db alone!

I also used this on my 3 door diahatsu charade that I used to own and it also came up great and lost its tinny sound when closing the doors.

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 21y 1m 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melb
Posted

So where do I find this deadening stuff from bunnings? What section is it in, and whats it called?

or do you recommend dynamat instead ?

dan..

  • Member
  • Member For: 19y 10m 23d
  • Location: Perth
Posted
So where do I find this deadening stuff from bunnings? What section is it in, and whats it called?

or do you recommend dynamat instead ?

dan..

Flashtac I think is the name

youll find it near the building supplys. itll be close to all the roofing supply stuff such as Whirlybirds and skylights.

  • Member
  • Member For: 21y 11m 5d
  • Location: Sutherland Shire, Sydney
Posted
So where do I find this deadening stuff from bunnings? What section is it in, and whats it called?

or do you recommend dynamat instead ?

dan..

I have a roll of - THIS - on the way.

Looked like pretty good value compared to the dynamat stuff...

Chris :blush:

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