Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Member
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 20y 4m 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Sydney NSW
Posted

Bought some new Cadence splits on the weekend ( yes, impulse buying haha ) and thought I could just rip out the JBL 6in driver and drop the cadence 6incher in... nope, no chance of fitting as the baskets are heaps bigger.

So, Needing to build new baffles to mount the 6s on I decided to make them as big as possible and seal up the doors for the best bass I could get from them.

Some 16mm mdf and a roll of stick on sound deadening stuff from bunnings ( yes, too tight to buy Dynamat ) and this is what I ended up with...

It sounds awesome, so much better than the poorly mounted JBLs I had in there. Theres loads of bass up front from these new speakers and they work well with the subs... the subs accually sound heaps better to so there must have been so massive cancelation at cetain frequecies.

First pic is the JBL 6 waiting to be evicted!

post-8749-1156753741_thumb.jpg

post-8749-1156753818_thumb.jpg

post-8749-1156753857_thumb.jpg

post-8749-1156753887_thumb.jpg

post-8749-1156753941_thumb.jpg

post-8749-1156753971_thumb.jpg

post-8749-1156754010_thumb.jpg

post-8749-1156754041_thumb.jpg

  • KILL,KILL,KILL,DIE,DIE,DIE,
  • Member
  • Member For: 20y 4m 22d
  • Gender: Male
Posted

Hey RAP1D did you have premium sound to start off with because I have found with my 15 in the boot that the rest of the standed speaker's are ok, apart from the front splits?

Cheers

Michael

  • Member
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 20y 4m 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Sydney NSW
Posted

Yeah I still use the premo, just the subs run off a mono block. The amp in the premo has ok power and sounds very good

  • Colossal Member
  • Member
  • Member For: 22y 1m 2d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, WA
Posted

Cool, I cant view the pics cos of mozilla (wtf) but sounds like you are on a winner there. How much was the sound deadening? How rigid is it?

  • Member
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 20y 4m 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Sydney NSW
Posted

60 for a 144mm by 10m roll. its thinner than dynamat but its nice and dead, heavy too

  • Colossal Member
  • Member
  • Member For: 22y 1m 2d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, WA
Posted

Sounds good, I'll have to go have a look at some for mine... I get a fair bit of loss in the doors with the MBs...

I might also look at putting some in the sub box to make those walls a bit more dense.

  • Member
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 20y 4m 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Sydney NSW
Posted

Yeah its definatley worth the effort. I'm going to cover the boot lid and boot walls on the weekend

  • Member
  • Member For: 22y 4m 18d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Newcastle
Posted
Yeah its definatley worth the effort. I'm going to cover the boot lid and boot walls on the weekend

Let us know how the boot goes with this cheaper deadening... im to tight to buy the real thing so a cheap effective alternative is the way to go for me...

ahahahaha

  • Colossal Member
  • Member
  • Member For: 22y 1m 2d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, WA
Posted (edited)

RAP1D: Did you have any issues with re-fitting the door trim after adding all the shizzel? That piece holding the woofer is quite large... any reason for making it go all the way to the bottom of the door?

And what dit you mount the crossover to? Did you have any dramas running those wires? It's damn fiddly pulling apart the grommet that goes from the door to the cabin :spoton:

Edited by XXXR6T
  • Member
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 20y 4m 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Sydney NSW
Posted

Yeah I had to trim a bit of the door trim, just all the little flap like things that stick up 10mm.

I made the panel fit into the cut out section of the door trim, basically wanted to make it as big as would fit to stop any flexing. Its needs to be as solid as posssible for the best sound.

Wiring wise I used the stock wiring into the doors and extended it to reach the xover... just used the wire that came with the splits.

I mounted the xover with the deadening tape... so once I had covered the big gaps with 2 layers of deadener, its was stiff enough to suport the xover and I just used more deadener as tape to hold it on, and its on solid but with a bit of give to absorb bumps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...