Tyre Pressuress

[XR6TOLDIE]

18's with Dunlops

Bob Jane advised me that in QLD, Dunlop recommend tyre pressures to be 32. He also advised it was different for other states.

I had previously been running 40 in all and switching back to 32 made the car feel like

I have since got another opinion from a different dealer who suggested 38. I have gone back to 40 in each now, rightly or wrongly.

[Eugene]

38psi all round, cold pressure, good gauge, not the at the servo.

I over inflate and check cold in the morning, drop to the correct pressure, I only have 8500km but there are zero signs of scuffing or wear so far.

17" standard tyres/rims

[ENVY-T]

I was also advised that anything less than 38 psi would give me premature wear. I have 39-40 psi and all seems fine.

My main problem isn't with pressures in the tyres but the pressure I put on the go pedal!! Alas it is such fun.

[Silverbullet]

17 inch, 40 PSI all round, nearly 40000km with 1>10 great burnouts....lol. Rotation every 5000km and wheel alignment every 10000km, all is good!!!!!

Edited 02/11/04 09:43 AM by Silverbullet

[DallasQLD]

Having done two sets on my T the ideal pressure for the weight of the car is

42 front

40 rear

There is a science to this. These pressures will give a good ride crisp turn in and good wear and very good handling.

The car is heavy and it will squirm on lower pressures.

I use the same formulas (and software) to work this out. We use maths to work out presure for each stage on rally cars.

If you run lower prssures you risk overhaeting the tyre and frying it. Heavy cars on underinflated tyres do that!

I have used the same formulas on my new car and I have got great tyre wear.

[Turbo6man]

Hmmm ... very scientific is OK. BUT, what about different brands of tyre on the XR6T? What about differing tyre construction/compounds across the different brands? What about the different aspect ratios and rim sizes?

[exar]

Having done two sets on my T the ideal pressure for the weight of the car is

42 front

40 rear

There is a science to this. These pressures will give a good ride crisp turn in and good wear and very good handling.

The car is heavy and it will squirm on lower pressures.

I use the same formulas (and software) to work this out. We use maths to work out presure for each stage on rally cars.

If you run lower prssures you risk overhaeting the tyre and frying it. Heavy cars on underinflated tyres do that!

I have used the same formulas on my new car and I have got great tyre wear.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Well I'll add this. When I got the car it always seemed to me that the tyres looked half flat, especially when parked on an incline, the downhill tyres looked underinflated. Increasing the pressure from 32 to 38 has them looking OK.

Just the feel when driving would indicate that 32 is too low.

It's nice when reality backs up science :lol:

[Lawsy]

From previous knowledge on the topic, 35 - 40 is where you should keep your tyres for them to perform the way the manufacturer wants them to.

35 is usually for rear end grip in a strait line, 40 is for winter or highway driving, 38 is just an alround good pressure for best handling, wear in most conditions.

In really hot weather, about 36 - 37 would do the trick to be safe.

[RAPHOON]

I've got 18's and I run 41psi in the front and about 38 in the rear. I run higher in the front to try and stop the edges of the tyres wearing out due to roundabouts and brisk driving at times. If I had 17's I think I'd run about 39 front a nd about 37 rear.

[NighEve]

I actually checked my pressures again today (still 41 front, 39 rear SP3000s and BF Goodrich ZR Sports 17s).

The fact I have done 44500kms and my front SP3000s look like they still have a good 25-30K left in them suggests these pressures are ideal (I still can't believe how well these tyres are wearing!). Shame the same cannot be said about rears (something to do with the right foot?).