exar

Yes well, thanks for that Unfortunately, none of the above apply to the way I drive (didn't I mention that in the original post?), and some of them don't even contribute to tyre wear (1 and 5) and others are debateable...

Might be a suitable tyre for me then, thanks, I'll look into it.

Well this thread has convinced me that we are not all driving the same tyres. I mean, even if they have the same number on the wall, there has to be some physical difference if I only get 30,000 driving sedately (compared to some in here :-) ). Maybe they changed the formula back when they were having splitting problems?

Did you mean SP3000 or have Ford changed what they are fitting? Also, I found the SP3000 on mine grip very well. Certainly much better than what I've had on any Ford previously (but never had a turbo before) :-)

I run 38 to 40 as well. These variations in mileage are quite unexpected. I don't know what to think now. If I was someone who turns off the traction control a lot I might blame my driving, but I think I have only ever turned it off once, just after I bought the car, and that was just to see if it worked

Just a comment on car washes. I used to fear their effects on paintwork, but the local one I have been using, has these brushes that seem to be made from strips of plastic chamois. I have using this car wash for 12 months, every 2 weeks on average. I get the premium deal which includes wax etc, and my car always looks great, and I see no swirl marks or anything in the shine. I figure it saves me about 2 hours, so it is a bargain at $12 oe so.

OK, good to have the feedback that 30,000 is reasonable. I expected it was, as the wear is very even. As for safe vs economical, I guess what you say is true. But I certainly don't drive like I'm on a racetrack and just wondered if there was a more suitable mix of performance vs wear.

As I mentioned, I searched, but seemed to only find stories about tyres with better performance, which usually means the opposite of what I am looking for. I am surprised at the difference in the amount of tread left with yours at 27,000, because I know I don't do burnouts or abuse them. Maybe it's the climate (I am in Brisbane). Are you in a colder climate? Also, I do about 50% highway, or at least 80+ km/h driving.

I did some searching, but most discussions seemed to centre around best performance tyres, which is understandable I suppose. However, having arrived at 30,000 km and not much tread left on the original tyres Ford fitted on the standard wheels, on my XR6T, I was wondering... Are there any tyres that will last longer? I did not wear them out doing burnouts etc, so I presume 30,000 is normal for the softer rubber in these tyres. I do not require top notch performance tyres, just something safe and economical. Is this possible, and if so, what would you recommend?

I too have experienced that nasty popping sound from the sub. Sounds like it is bottoming out. My question is this. Do I really have to wire in a new amp? Can't I just get a new driver to replace the obviously sh*tty quality one that comes from the factory, and run it from the factory amp, even if I have to use a separate box for it? OK, it won't be perfect, but as long as I stop the nasty popping, I'll be happy...

You bet. National fleet price when I bought mine 18 months ago or so, was $39k, so this run-out is simply selling them at the REAL price, and Ford's still making a tidy profit.

I see. So why is this not the same for, say, a Mercedes? The options would be even more expensive. In fact, the XR6T comes with many goodies over the XT (isn't that the point? ), and there are many, like me, who were happy with minimal upgrades. I only got the premium sound extra. It doesn't seem to help if the options are built in though. I had a stock standard Fairmont last time, and still got lousy resale (in fact someone else was just saying how the upmarket models were not good resale) I think, bottom line, there's a rule, a corollary of Murphy's law, that says that, anything I purchase will have minimal resale at the time I need to sell it.

I am having trouble understanding (maybe I am thick today ) what you mean here. I would have thought options didn't add much to the resale (unless the buyer particularly wanted those same options))

Caltex and Ampol is exactly the same fuel. Not sure what you mean by 'AMPOL premium' though, is that Vortex gold? If so. it's the 95 RON stuff. If not, the normal unleaded is only 91.

I won't use Ultratune anymore. They put too much gas in my aircon (some years ago in an older Ford) and then wanted to charge me many more dollars to fix it (blaming the Tx valve or something) An airconditioning shop down the road fixed it for free (just let some gas out)

Couldn't be the same in Queensland, as BP and Caltex both have refineries in Brisbane, and are in direct competition to each other. Maybe in other states things differ. For example, in WA, only BP has a Refinery, so MAYBE Caltex sources the stock fuel from BP, but then, they would put in their own additives. What happens in Sydney I wonder? BP don't have a refinery there do they, just Shell and Caltex?

and they're all 98 RON? That's an astounding amount of difference! However, I get about 500 using Caltex Vortex (95 RON) anyway... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> ***EDIT*** Sorry I meant well under 500... not as low as 400! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> That's OK - makes sense then, as I can't really tell the difference between Vortex and Vortex 98. So around the 500 per tank is what I'd expect - I get a bit under if it's all city/low speed driving too.

and they're all 98 RON? That's an astounding amount of difference! However, I get about 500 using Caltex Vortex (95 RON) anyway...

I think you meant Vortex 98, as normal Vortex is 95.

Crap? How so? Mine runs fine on Caltex Vortex.

I went through this with one local Caltex dealer here in Sydney and he got out some paperwork and said the Vortex was min 96 RON and Vortex 98 still higher. As I said way early in this thread Caltex seem (but the wording is vague) to be the only ones to seem to indicate their RON (reseach octane numbers) are minimums and not avergages. But as I also said, never seen any PROOF. It's all speculation and I've read many hundereds of posts in forums all over....not to mention that often different brands ARE the same - same refinery nothing chnaged - in various areas. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Other brands might have the same base fuel, but the specialty fuels, like Vortex, would only be sold under the Caltex brand names. Special additives, such as the cleaning additives, would not be in the fuel if sold by another brand. As for proof of octane minimums... This page http://www.caltex.com.au/products_oil_detail.asp?id=15 says 95 RON is the minimum spec for Vortex fuel. This page http://www.caltex.com.au/products_oil_listing.asp?section=1 says quite clearly that 98 RON is a minimum spec for Vortex 98.

I normally use Caltex Vortex. I tried the 98 RON version, but never noticed much difference. I suspect that is because, in Queensland, the Caltex Vortex is 96 RON, not 95 (or so I've been told)

However, for leased vehicles, where the initial purchase price is low because of purchasing power and fleet discounts, plus the 'used' portion of the car's value being GST free, turnover at 2 years can be a good option. Keeping it for 3 years or longer means extra loss of value vs selling it while still under warranty.

Thanks, I'll look. and if that's what it is, surely that's covered under warranty?

Well I don't have premium brakes yet I still get the squeeling. I do however, have a fairly late build Mk. I and never had ANY shudder - so I am guessing they modified the brakes to not shudder but squeel instead. :-)