Eugene

HI all, Mate of mine has a 2004 BA Mk1 turbo ute, 4 speed auto. car cas been modded for ever with exhaust, injectors, tune etc, it is just a daily driver used by all for everything, it has now developed a shift problem. we tried with and without the tune in and problem is still there so it appears to be an issue with the box, not software. 1-2 shift is good, no slip or flare. 2-3 shift is sh*t, either in auto or manual, there is a 1.2 to 1.5 second delay on shift and tach jumps by 250-300rpm, then a firm thump ad 3rd is engaged, it is OK-ish on light throttle but anywhere near 2500rpm + and it thumps etc, 3-4 shify is good to. Auto hase been serviced, new fluid and filter etc, he was going to trade but offered under $13K made up his mind to keep it and run it into the ground. Who would you recommend for an exchange box, the ute is running 260ish RWKW, but doesn`t get driven too hard now, so I cant see a need for a super duper strengthend box, but ideas are welcome. PS: he has just ordered a FG Typhoon ute, with all the fruit. Cant wait.

Your dead right, It's the same prob the GTR suffers from. Try not to do it.

SIMPLE, The reason you felt less power was because you were more than likly dumping boost straight out your BOV, the small "vac" line, is also a BOOST line, when your on Boost, this applies boost to the LOW pressure (atmospheric) side of the BOV piston, there is a light spring in there too to help keep the valve shut, the boost through the small line and the sping are STRONGER than the boost and the BOV stays shut. now, when you disconect the small line, there is no balancing pressure when on boost, the boost applies to the face of the BOV piston, overcomes the spring pressure and open the valve, Less boost, less power. when the small line is hooked up, and you close the throttle, the small line is AFTER the throttle butterfly and will be in a Low pressure (or vacume) state, this applied to the back of the piston, along with the boost, which now has nowhere to go becasue of the closed throttle butterfly, overcomes the spring pressure against the piston in the BOV, and dumps boost into the intake, UNTIL the boost falls to a point where the spring can override the boost and close again. this is a normally functioning BOV. it is quiet and help prevent RAPID deceleration of the turbine assmbly, although the turbine is Light, it is spinning VERY fast, in high boost, up around 200,000 rpm or more, when you dont give anywhere for the boost to go, the compressor becomes a big brake and slows the turbine fast, this can put alot of strain on the shaft, bearings and wheels. If I were running up and over 15psi, I think I would use a Good, high volume BOV, remeber, they only dump EXCESS boost. Under 15psi, to stock cars, ( BA-BF Falcon) the turbo has poven to be very tough little piece of gear, and I think No BOV, when disconected corectly, would help with throttle response, but do it at your own perile. My experiance with turbos is limited to LARGE earthmoving gear with 4 turbos that are large enough to put your head in the inlake, thhey dont like suddon stops when they are making 40-50 PSI boost. they fly apart, and take out $400-500K engine along the way. I only have about 20 years of playing with these thing, so take what you will from my comments.

I am sorry if im out of line here, but I fail to see how rubbing your "Ford Employee" price in everyones face every chance you get helps, the guy was asking for an estimate of what he would expect to pay, not know what you can buy a car for direct from ford, all it does is make every one else dirty about how much they paid for thier cars. As for the prices, I recently priced up a New (build for me) 2007 BFmkII sedan, with the following 6 speed auto Turbo (Duh) Leather, pemeium sound, 18"s Duel Zone climate Prestige paint with zero screwing I had $44,100. drive away. (PS< I ended up buying a late 2006 BF 6 spped auto sedan with 15k on it and all the other options + Ford alarm, DSC, as above for $35. X ford car, so it saved me $10K, which is good now as im only a poor mine worker.

Well, I Placed an order thisafternoon, not for a new one, but an 06-06 build BF sedan Specs as follows 6 speed auto Turbo 15000km Leather Premium sound Lux pack Rear park sensors DSC tint duel airbags all usual T extras In lighting Strike, so my bonnet can go straight on too. Paid $35000. car is unmarked and will be transport for the collum family for a few years. Now I need, Injectors X Force Exhaust PWR Cooler Plazaman piping kit. and a custom tune at Blacktrack performance at thornton I cant wait.

It doesnt seem like too much has changed around here, still bashing the Wog, just different bunch of bitches doing the bitching.

I bought my Ute from this guy, I doubt he would pull that, and if he did, he would have a nice Octane BFmkII turbo outo in stock, because I sure as sh*t wont be paying for, or buying a car without leather. the more I think about it, the more I like the idea of a typhoon, mmmm sexy, so back th phuck off muzza, I got first dibs.

I was told by the sealer that all XR's (whatever engine) ordered after july 07 with the 6 speed auto, come with, Leather, premium sound (big screen, 6 disc,) and duel zone climate control. I dont want any options, I will git big brakes later, along with some smicko wheels, I would consider a sunroof, but only if they arnt noisy or reduce headroom too much. I will fit an aftermarket tow pack. As for scuff plates etc, I see no point in buying them on the car and paying stampduty etc, Ebay will provide all the little trinkets if I feel like it. My plan was to de-badge and de-spoiler it, leave only the ford badge in the midle of the boot, tint, clean 5 spoke wheels, big brakes, lower a little, and 330 rwkw, simple. A shopping express for Mummy. Either that or Ill wait for my mates BF mk II typhoon Auto, (with all the fruit) and 315rwkw to come out of lease early next year and buy it. My ute is at the Auction house, and will be sold Friday.

Hi All, I am selling my ute to make way for a sedan, I got a price from my local dealer yesterday on a new (built to order) BF MkII Turbo sedan. following spec Octane 6 speed auto 18" wheels (part of ford offer0 Leather (part of ford offer) Premium sound and climate control (part of ford offer) all ussual XR6 extras duel airbags etc etc no other options, as I see no point in paying stamp duty on frilly bits, so Ill ad them later. price. on road and transfered into my name $44.000. approx 8 week build. thoughts on price, I thought it was pretty good, he even offered to trade the ute at a good, but not great price. any recent buys or prices seen would be good. Thanks Chris

My Ute will do and has done the same, hit the peg at 270 and kept pulling, felt OK, but was not something I would do every day, I ran it to 5600rpm in top (auto) mk 1 ute, at the time it was wearing Continental PS2 's. Tarp didnt like it at all.

Looks like ford ar low on F6 rims, again, I have a freind who got a BF F6 auto not too long ago, told by Ford three months for car, why he ask's, "no rims sir", so they fitted his car with the same rims as the car in photo, then when the rims got here, he got new tyres and rims fitted. He got the 18" jobs.

NO, that big cad designed bit of folded metal does nothing, nothing at all, it doesnt stop the front towers from touching each other, it doesnt stop the front end from flopping about like a "82 sigma front end, no, Chop'em I say, and while your at it, clamp off your rear brake lines, its easier to burnouts that way, and get rid of ya airbags, thier crap, and ABS, and seatbelts, cull the lot. wa*ker.

There are sh*t loads of jobs in the mines in the valley, I know, I got one and didnt even apply for one, 12.5 hr shifts, 3.5 days per week ( 3 one week 4 the next), no sick leave, no Hols, but good work and lots of learning, $105K + overtime + super. Suits me, but I have 20 years in the industry. try a contracting mob like TESA, or Skilled, they are your best shot to get in.

Cool, So many Heli Nuts here, I have a V2 Rappy 30 with a few bits, been flying (cough cough) for a while, but time is hard to handle to practice etc. a cheapo elec would be cool, use my radio etc and set up a real cheap elec for practice, any recomendations guys. I have chargers etc to suit all but Li-ions, but happy to get one if required.

Um, No drive yet, still have to fit, external pump, surge tank 4" x force dump, new plenum, but that's all, then im ready to go. My aim is to make a really comphy 350rwkw without stressing the engine too much, I will use as low boost as I can to do it, I dont want to go over 12-14 psi if I can avoid it.

Piping from turbo to cooler is done, the cooler is mounted too, (hybrid 450x300x80 with 2.5" in and out). All the pipes have to be removed aagin, cleaned inside and out then painted black, but here they are fitted. All pretty straight foward, I ran out of HD clamps, so the regular ones are there for the pics only, more HD clamps will be fitted on the final install.

BA/BF there different. ← But the flow the same ammount (cat that is), not sure of whole exhaust. I had 275 with stock cat in place, but it was a laboured 275, it didnt come on easy etc, but it can be done, much like making big power without other mods like fuel pumps, injectors or coolers or whatever else you feel like adding. the factory bits will make power, but with other bits added power is made easier and the engine does it easier, revs easier, feels less laboured, that's all. I would not like to push it too far past the 270 mark, heat and back pressure are building by then, but like others have said, it can be done, its up to you.

A Quick question, What pipe are you running from the turbo to the cooler?, factory or custom? If you are going to go custom I can send you all the bends required (angles) etc, and some pics of how mine came up, easy to do, and worth the effort if your going 2.5 all the rest of the way as the factory rubber is well under 2" id, and has a few crimped down bits to add further restriction. Great work again. Chris

there is enough room to run the 2.5" pipe as you descrice, like the N/A, I think this is going to be the next step before he fits the plenum? BOV can be anywhere after the trubo before the throttle body, in that setup I would stick it straight above the turbo and plumb back into the intake straigh below, easy. F6, as for mounting the boost sensor, it can be stuck on the end of a bit of hose if required, a 10mm barded fitting welded in somewhere after the coller, then run a hose to sensor and clamps the hold it on, then you wont need to lengthen the wires for a temp setup, the sensor doesnt need to be earthed, may save some time on your temp set-up. that cooler is HUGE, what are the dims of that puppy, I have a 450-300-80 going in now, but that looks like its around 420-440 high, great work.

as for seeling a car due to poor ecoenomy, lets do the math shall we. all numbers are rounded in the favour of selling so I sahll rouind down to suit. Turbo falcon car on road with a few options $43,000. fuel at say $1.25 per liter for this example usage average for CITY slug little bit of highway is 16.5 lt per 100 or $20.60 per 100k travelled. selling car for "mid twneties" say $27k, aloss of $16,000. or enough money to travel approx 75oookm on the fuel at $1.25 per liter. now thw other side, buy a "new" economical car, like a Astra or corrola, lets allow them 9lts per 100 in the city or $11.25 per 100 ks traveled, a difference of $9.35 per 100 ks, now to make the difference up of the $16k, you only need to travel 175000 km to be EVEN, lets not factor in Stampduty, depreciation etc on the new Corolla. The up side of all this is you are driving a Corolla or astra, and loving every minute of it, instead of say getting a edit, custome tune, say $1400. and really enjoy your driving. Chiptorque in Nerang are edit deallers, those guys a pioneers in the tuning of the turbo falcon, RDP are guns, hell, I bet I could find a decent tuner within 5 mins of yellow pages ofr ford mag searching. to sell a car because of bad economy to save such a small amount is crap, dont do it get your car sorted out and enjoy it, give up the smokes or the pokies, enough money there to buy a second falcon to leave running in the shed wwhen you go out ← I purchased the vehicle second hand, by selling the vehicle now not only will I break even I will also accrue a few extra dollars depending upon the selling price. I’m not interested in travelling out of Brisbane for a tune, leaving only the young hot shot or the old and deceptive tuners. We are extremely limited in Brisbane for any sort of reliable and professional aftermarket Ford retailers. ← MMMM, I can see why you wouldnt want to go to nerang from brisbane, oh my gosh, that's nearly 45mins drive, how would you cope, the horendous fuel use, the war and tear on those big 17" tyres, oh my god, better leave it parked in the shed, so it can depreciate. Get out and drive the bloody thing, that's what its built for, I have, for the past two years put over $100. worth of fuel per week, every week down the throat of my ute, I could not think of a better way to spend it either. Fuel is cheap, tyres are cheap, it is the depreciation that kills you, enjoy the car, or go and buy a corrola, your call.

I dont beleive this place anymore, 897 lookers and thirty replies, doesn't anyone car about making these things fast anymore, or is it all about big stereo installs and 20" rims. I remember 18 months ago if someone had info n how to make an extra 20rwkw for jam, you would be overun, now all guys want is to cry about warranty and poor fuel economy, FIIK. Maybe im getting old.

a Few pic of the top half with the throttle body mount flipped over 180. there wont be enough clearance due to the angle to run the TB bolted straight onto the plenum as factory does, it fits but wont leave enough room to fit an elbow. I will make a 70deg adaptor that the TB can bolt to and it will bolt to the plenum.

In the meantime I plan to drop 40kg, get married, have kids and live a long and fruitful lifeLumpy ← your a funny *beep* lump, a short, commie bastard, but still a funny *beep*, I am using a "Hybrid" 450 x 300 x 80 with 2.5 inlets and outlets. I have decided just to use an adaptor from comp housing to pipe as suggested, less drama and easy to jiggle the pipe if required, I may buy a "good Quility" one though as some of the ebay specials I have seen were pretty thin and I doubt they would last too long there, that was why I was going to use a stainless adaptor, I have black sil hose that is 2 times thicker, 8 layer reinforcing, it is rated to 120c at 200psi, it wont move, or tear, I will see how I go. I was thinking of machining some ends to be tigged onto the pipes with the raised section to hold the hose on, but it seems like a lot of work when bead of weld will do the trick.

Hi Robin, As you have said, it will be a two peice affair as clearance is too tight,and a little bit of fudging can be got with a rubber joint. I will get a bead put on the ends once done, thanks.