greasemonkey

I'm just thinking out loud. If you aren't replacing the cluster at all, you would think it would be possible. I'll try and search this person up. I don't go on instagram much and I'm thankful this forum still exists. So many forums are shutting up shop in internetland and unfortunately with that comes a massive loss of information. People try to do it on facebook but FB isn't a platform designed to archive and search threads of information easily. I can get one for $170 so if I can't find out, I might just give it a go. Are the clusters easy to take out of FG falcons?   Hopefully he still goes on the forum. Totally understand. Family time and cars is a fine balance.

Any info out there guys? Has anyone done this mod before? Just after ideas to see if its worth it and possible

Hi guys I'm thinking of swapping my speedo and tacho from an FG MK2 to an FG MK1. The MK1 looks great at night and bright blue but the numbers compared to the MK2 are quite small (hence the upgrade on the MK2) XR6. I don't know if anyone has done this before??? Can you swap the speedo and tacho and insert it into a different cluster without an error?? JUST CONFIRMING THAT I WISH TO ONLY CHANGE SWAP THE GAUGES AND NOT THE CLUSTER! I've read swapping the cluster wtih another completely presents Odometer issues (ECU logs that cluster has been changed and you need to take it to Ford to get it reset to the correct kms). I inserted a pic so you know what I'm talking about.

So I managed to make this about three weeks ago. It's worked perfect. Painted it eventually in black just to minimise rust on the mild steel flat bar. Hopefully this helps someone else wanting to minimise rock and sway using the battery relocation kits like from ANTZ or similar

I read the replies on the thread early on boys but didn't get a chance to reply until now. With the battery tray, because of the way ANTZ have the tray propped up just by one support in the centre and also because the metal tray can be flexed, the battery can be rocked with pressure forward and back. I worked out the easiest fix is to drill 2 bolt holes into the tray and make a support and drill that into the engine bay metal (small screws). Should work a charm. Just have to get a flat bar of metal and I should be set!

Hi guys My XR6 Turbo had a battery relocation done upon tune and the workshop used an ANTZ battery relocation kit. After having this for 2 years and seeing my batter sway back and forward, the material that ANTZ make the battery tray out of has to much flex and I'm not a fan. I'm looking to make my own with stee/metal that has no flex. The tray is flat and then it has one centre piece to hold the tray up. Like I said, I aint a fan. My battery has rocked a few times and that shouldn't happen. Has anyone made their own battery tray or modified the ANTZ tray to give more rigidity and strength???????

If the motor is healthy and you are strapped for a budget, you should just go with the mods you have listed. Transmission rebuild again I'm not sure. Talk to your workshop and see if they are pointing you in the right direction or just wanting some extra cash. If you had more money, I'd get an FG XR6 turbo motor and drop that in or build a motor to much greater strength with aftermarket internals. Beauty of the barra motor is the bottom end is the same for all the series. I think the cylinder head changed designs slightly but someone can confirm. Main changes between these motors were pistons, camshafts and stronger rods from BF xr6 turbo onwards.

Thanks so much Puffwagon. Sorry about my delayed reply mate. Trying to set up this job sometime in January or February in my garage.

Appreciate all the advice with the help and service guys, thanks so much!! So I have another question to ask as I will do this job as a one person job. So after draining the pan, cleaning it up and putting on a new gasket, I will remove the filling plug and pump in fluid all the way until it starts dripping out. I leave the filling plug off and then I start the car. After I start the car I shift the transmission into drive first, then neutral and then reverse. I turn the car off, go underneath the car to inspect. I look and check to see if fluid is running out. If no fluid is running out of the fill plug then I continue to pump in more fluid until fluid does come out? I'll call my ford dealer and ask for the unit and its price for the trans cooler. The original one has held up well as it is now 220,000kms so don't mind going stock again (unless it costs a fortune).

I've seen a few videos and they state for the trans temp to be at a set amount so I may get a cheap scan tool or otherwise an laser thermo tool. I'll do your tip also. I typed in trans in the search bar after your info. My thread does come up 1st now and the others I can't find info about servicing. If you see any threads that you found on the search, just post it through and I'll read them. Thanks HJ Turbo. Aftermarket trans cooler kits are over $1,000 (PWR) that I searched. Don't know if you can still get a factory cooler for the ZF 6 speed. With the other parts you listed, do you need to replace them. Can that be done once the pan is off or is it a trans out job.

Hi guys I would think someone has done a write up of how to service the transmission for the ZF 6 speed on the FG Falcon turbo models but I couldn't get anything when I did a search bar query. Short story: I need to change my rear main seal on my FG XR6 TURBO. I have a slight leak when the car has been sitting a few weeks. It's a weekend driver. Done 220,000kms in its life but 2000kms a year by me. The gaskets are starting to give way. Done front main and rocker cover gaskets also recently. I've seen youtube videos of people pumping oil in the box while another person simultaneously shifts gears. Can changing the trans oil be done as a 1 person job or do you need two people? What gears do you shift the transmission through as you are pumping in auto fluid to the gearbox? Any help really appreciated guys, thnx

Apparently the genuine plugs are perfect for the XR6 turbo. I haven't had to change them however after my car got tuned, the tuner (who runs a well known Sydney tuning shop) installed FORD OEM spark plugs. Everything else however was aftermarket.

The paper one will be fine as well and will last a long time provided it is installed properly and sealed. Once the seal is broken however, you will have to install a new gasket again.

Is the ticking sound you are talking about constant or is it just intermittent when you press the brake pedal. I don't know if it would be slotted rotors but I haven't had to change my rotors either on my xr6 turbo?

I thought they are all metal?

They would defnintely have done more than a basic service and if it is, they are charging something like $250 per hour and doing more than just an oil change. I agree with what some of the others have said. I started servicing my own car after years of taking my cars to the mechanics and getting poor service. One time, they put no oil in the family car when I was young and we did a cylinder head gasket. Another time, they didn't clamp a top radiator hose and it came off doing 80km/h. Been doing all my oil changes, brakes, rotors, radiators, flushes, tyre rotations, installing suspension arms for over 15 years now. Just haven't done an engine rebuild or trans removal. Youtube is a sensation for wanting to learn about mechanics. Give it a go. Just be patient and try to learn from your mistakes each time. You'll save a bit of $$$ doing it too.

This is a few months since but not sure if you still have this problem. I get a clunk in the rear on my FG XR6 Turbo and when I jacked the car up soon after buying I noticed my nolathane bushes were split in the cradle (not a big split and its still all together). It will clunk at low speeds if you accelerate hard and take your foot off the gas. If I hit a bump really hard, my traction control light will come on. I then have to turn it off and then turn it back on and drive for a little while and it is back to normal again. I'd say it could be your diff bushes. Check them first, then the diff possibly itself. Don't know why you get zero power unless the ECU is putting you in a limp mode of some sorts. I'm still new to FG falcons (not new to cars) so not sure if they do this.

Hey Demarosso Do you have a pic of the standard valve springs vs the Demoninator Motorsports. I purchased an FG XR6 Turbo last year. It's been tuned by a pretty reputable aftermarket tuner within the scene but they didn't list that valve springs were changed. Turbo, injectors, intercooler and a tune were all done. I'm guessing they were but can't tell for sure obviously. I haven't pulled off the valve cover yet, no need to as the car is running well.