greasemonkey

So, you are reusing your pistons? These aren't the original pistons on your engine are they? For the power you are making, I'm guessing they are forged items. Your car is quick, even not when tuned. My dream is to rebuild my own engine one day. I just have to get familiar with the tools and what clearances you need to check upon rebuilding. Trying to work out if I wanted 600rwkw, what internal engine parts you would need. I guess already it would include: *Forged conrods and pistons *Aftermarket cams *Surge tank? *Bigger fuel pump and injectors *Turbo upgrade *Aftermarket timing chain gears and kit *Cylinder head seals refresh. Of course I'd have to rebuild my trans too.

I don't get much at the moment but still it is noticeable when braking regularly at moderate speed on twisty roads. Would think the 6 piston brakes wouldn't work as hard so it would be better. I'm using Castrol DOT 4. So does that mean I go for DOT 5? I don't have braided lines. How much of the brake line can be braided ADR Approved. I've read different forum accounts of information about the legality of it all, in NSW particularly. I've got standard falcon rubber hoses currently.

I'm in the middle of Sydney near Parramatta. Are you saying you have two sets of 6 piston brembo brakes? From what you have posted XR6tForMe, you have a b series falcon. Happy to have a trial fit if the b-series falcon is the same as the fg regarding wheels and brakes. People are wanting lots of cash for brakes. 4 piston calipers only with no rears that are used, people are asking $2,000. Don't know what it is for 6 piston but have seen one ad for $3,500 with and without rotors. Pads make a big difference. My ultimate pads help the car way better now (I have slotted and drilled rotors), but still at about 100-110km/h going into a corner you still need to allow ample time to pull up. I was out the other night driving on some tight turns and corners and after about 4 or 5 brakes, I started to get brake fade. Let off the pedal and then it was back to normal. Convinced me to get 6 piston setup if the bank and availability can afford it. Shame the FG has a bit of flab on it, that extra weight isn't great! Inbox me if its possible to do a fit of the wheel anytime. Thanks so much.

Can I ask XR6T some quick questions as I wish I may do the same in the next year or two. 1)Do the 4 pot and 6 pot brembo brakes fit over 18 inch wheels (or is it only some 18 inch wheels they will fit/). I have the Lenso spec e wheels https://www.modkingz.com.au/wheels/lenso/lenso-d-spec-e-matt-black?productcode=PDE18855H%2B35MB&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzva1BhD3ARIsADQuPnVZ3mJZx2ArEAXwi2IvnBTjUWEoddmb4yFJdJRLAN_PuX90h5l4vdQaAudMEALw_wcB 2)I am guessing you need new caliper mounting brackets for the 4 or 6 pot brembo brakes? Is there anything else you need to make this work (you said you need new flexible brake lines? How long are the two lines needed and is anyone making brake line kits for this conversion? 3)What pads are you running and what rotor brand and style? I rebuilt my 2 pot brakes. The pads do make a big difference. Running Ultimate's but I know the Brembo's would give that much improvement again. Not sure how much difference you get between 4 and 6 piston caliper stopping power? 3)What

So what happened exactly when you went Roll Racing. By the way, this wasn't in NSW was it? What are you doing to the engine? Is it all new components and parts replaced or only some parts? I looked at RVO the other day for a transmission rebuild should I still need one after I do my trans service (how good or sloppy the gearbox is when going the 1/4 mile from dead still).

I think the cars will become more collectable in the next 10 or so years

Happy Saturday Keith. I'm passionate to maintain this forum being alive. The barra turbo is well known as a great engine but for every xr6 or fpv turbo I see, I'll see 10 V8 commodores or even just as many vl turbos and japanese cars as the xr6 turbo and fpv f6 etc.

Thanks Puff for the info. If I could run into the 11s that would be unreal. My 60ft is slower than yours but maybe a good stall converter and trans (tune as well) would help that problem. It is really interesting about the mph reading and how that is a guide for times in a 1/4 mile. Trans and diff gearing combinations and tuning is so important here, with 1/4 drags. I love the fact that the FG XR6 turbo it is a street car, a great 6 speed box and don't want to lose that aspect of being extremely streetable. That's what I love about the xr6 turbo. Good luck having that with a N/A V8 with heads and cam work. I will contact RVO at some point about $$$. I'd have to ship my trans down to Melbourne or if they do the tuning, leave the car with them. The only thing I notice is that if I really dig in, foot to the floor, my car blows white smoke somewhat each time the trans changes gear (under full boost). Doesn't burn coolant, doesn't burn oil etc. Its like a restriction almost. You can watch it here. Should I be worried?

Alright guys. Well I did one better last Wednesday night My first run was the best run. 12.27 @. 122mph. Stalled to 2000 rpm and almost foot flat to the floor straight away. It went off the line smooth and just continued. Second pass I floored it from the start line and took the converter up to 2300rpm. Car didn't like it. Felt like the torque converter or gearbox slipped and then once it came back to norm, continued hard down the line. Got a 13.1 at 117mph. Third pass I put the transmission into sports mode. Not as powerful. I remember the person I purchased the car off said that the tune was in Drive after I ran. Was good overall but a 12.9 at 120mph. I think I need a torque converter built for the box. Do you need to build the box for the converter? Something that can handle 420kw smoothly everyday pass and run?

Thanks for doing that prep work. Forums are a dying species and I hope this doesn't die. Once a forum goes, so much knowledge disappears!

I went to the drags last Wednesday night and I saw an FG FPV. He showed me his breaks and he has pretty much the pads I purchased with was probably is twin piston calipers (is that what the territory has on the rear). My ultra pads have done a lot for improving the braking of the car. I'll just rebuild the rear calipers at some point. Kit from Protex is $20 per caliper (as they are singles), so it is really cheap

Happy evening K31th! Just out of interest as well, are the xr6 turbo forums your site k31th?

Okay guys. Well I purchased off the catalogue for a set of rear brake pads and I should have taken them off first. I didn't realise that there are two sizes listed for the FG falcon. I am guessing one is for my car which is single piston and one is for twin piston brembo's. I purchased the Bendix General CGT1675. I then realised I need DB1376 Bendix which is the standard pad for all falcons from EF-FG. When I saw the size I was really shocked to be honest. Thought they would have upgraded the rear brakes for the turbo models too. What rotor is the size difference for in caliper? What rotors were an option on the FG XR6 for this pad? Is it an easy rear brake upgrade? (DB1376 at top, DB1675 at bottom) Thanks everyone!

Thanks Puff. My pistons are good but to check you have to take the seals off. With the multi grips, how would you go about doing without scratching the piston on its way out? I used the caliper off and the brake pedal method with the caliper still hoooked up. Once the pistons are near the end of their range, you can twist and wiggle them out. To put the boot back in and get it to seal inside the caliper lip is a pin until I found this video. Heaps of people stated they pressed it with a screwdriver, their finger or something else in videos and forum but I found some part always came out and the video below was the best and most logical method to get the boot in. Protex front caliper kit is this one. Guy at the parts store said that from AU onwards, they are all the same seal sizes! Found my local auto shop had the Protex kit. Looks like this for anyone if they need a reference. I'll try sealant with the oil sump. I've done my front main seal and there is no oil leaking from the sump gasket I can see. I've cleaned it a few times and you can see one very very tiny hole. I reckon the sealant should work a treat. If the oil gets on the sealant then I know it wasn't the tiny little hole I thought of. Thanks Puff and El Andrew.

Hi guys Keith, Puff, you may have some information as well. Two issues I'm dealing with. In preperation of getting my car to go to the drags next week, I purchased new pads and thought I would check the seals and pistons of the front calipers whilst I am at it. On my daily, an Astra I was able to blow compressed air into the fluid line but I don't have a screw in fitting to do this for the PBR brakes (I'm sticking my blow gun nozzle and there is still a gap where air is escaping). To get the pistons out, I'm going for the brake pedal method but personally I'd like to do it with compressed air. What screw do you need to allow fittings to blow compressed air in the nozzle. Either way I will be able to get them out. Question 1) With rebuild kits (seals and rings for PBR calipers) however REPCO don't stock a rebuild kit nor Supercheap. Where can I get front brake caliper seal kits and is there a physical store I could pick them up? There are some brake online stores but but I don't believe that anything I order will get to my house in time so I can install it. Question 2) I've had this since I purchased the car. It seems part of the weld has been scuffed at some point. So much that I get the tiniest pinhole leak. It is very very small (maybe less than 50ml every 1500kms). Still is there some sealant or something I can do to stop it. It just seems a bit ridiculous. More worried about my brakes getting right. Just can't believe that you can't get rebuild seal kits from a store like Repco or Supercheap etc. See oil leak area in red circle in photo

Good to know that on big power like your Territory, these ZF boxes and stall converters have no issues. I've seen a few people's cars on youtube with serious power recommend MonstaTorque for gearbox rebuilds (Link for monstatorque) . My gearbox is fine but the minimum package for a rebuild from Monsta is I think $8K and up. I wonder if that is the norm for a hi performance aftermarket rebuild? Hopefully solenoid works. Maybe I should do a bit of WD-40 just as maintenance?

That's great to know. They looked thick but I don't know how much thicker or the spring coil design between aftermarket and stock so its good to know. Found the boost solenoid thanks to your info Puff. It looks pretty solid as a unit. Do these need checking or adjustment or are they pretty reliable for lifetime? There is a small loom going from it to the fuse box etc. Now just to research about tailshafts and torque converters (in case my stock one breaks as well?). Everyone seems to go to Turbo 400 gearboxes but I like the ZF gearbox! Any companies make decent ZF torque converters out there? Most cater for the Turbo 400 gearbox.

Happy Sunday k31th

Thanks Puff for that info about the stock converter. I'll try and take it up to 2000rpm. I'm not using an external wastegate or boost controller. The pulsar turbo actuators are set at 15psi. Can you run them on higher boost through a tune without a boost controller or mechanical bleed valve? Would I be making 20psi at that level of 400rwkw? I don't want to get a new tailshaft. What are the options should I break one? How much are you looking at $$$ to get a better tailshaft? ALSO, My car work was done by a highly reputable and proven tuner here in Sydney. However when I purchased the car, not all the receipts I was able to obtain (work was done several times over a few months). Can I tell if my valve springs are aftermarket or stock. Is there anyway to tell? Photos from last year when I replaced my rocker cover {

I floored it. My friend who drag races said the same thing also. It had to be partly the traction control. It's good to know a rough ballpark figure. What can I realistically stall the stock trans converter too without blowing it up?

I just logged on and the pictures appear again. Can anyone see them from my original post Puffwagon? Hopefully this works <blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/eRLQaJ8" data-context="false" ><a href="//imgur.com/a/eRLQaJ8"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Hi guys I ran my car out at Western Sydney Dragway recently and got a 13.7. Car Info FG XR6 TURBO MK1 Power: Just over 400RWKW Trans and Diff : ZF Auto, LSD Tyres: Michelin Pilot 4 (245/40/18 inch) ENGINE : Tuned but all stock internals except for injectors, intercooler, pod filter, turbo (Pulsar 3584), 4inch dump to 3.5 inch Xforce KMS: 220,000 I forgot to turn off traction control. However what I noticed is that boost came on but really late down the lane, around 120km/h plus. Obviously it is earlier with traction control off and more of it. I knew traction control cuts power but I don't know by how much. I stalled to around 1500rpm (factory converter) and left when I was ready. Transmission is ZF, completely stock. What times should I be realistically running down the 1/4???? I know it has to be better than what I did because the factory test cars in the MK1 did the 1/4 in 13.4 stock. Tips, ideas, thoughts. I'll head back out there soon.

The pictures for the quick bracket I made are here. Didn't realise they had disappeared. https://imgur.com/a/eRLQaJ8

Thanks so much for your reply and posting your knowledge of what happens if you decide to change the cluster fascia. I had no idea about the needles and I can imagine what you are saying would be a real pain. How did you get your needles to be spot on? Did you have to take your cluster off several times in order to finish it? I really like the size of the MK2 tacho cluster face but I like the look of the MK1 overall. Just the size is small. Currently have a minor problem with what I believe to be a boost leak. When I am at WOT, the car makes a sound like an old hinge gate opening and being squeeky. I'm going over the car tomorrow and tightening down all the hoses in the intercooler piping to be solid tight. Initially I thought it was turbo related but the turbo has only done 6,000kms. Going down the 1/4 mile so fingers crossed no issues. I read a few tips for passes? Any advice. Probably wrong thread to ask but what the hell.

Hopefully he still goes on the forum. Totally understand. Family time and cars is a fine balance. I'm just thinking out loud. If you aren't replacing the cluster at all, you would think it would be possible. I'll try and search this person up. I don't go on instagram much and I'm thankful this forum still exists. So many forums are shutting up shop in internetland and unfortunately with that comes a massive loss of information. People try to do it on facebook but FB isn't a platform designed to archive and search threads of information easily. I can get one for $170 so if I can't find out, I might just give it a go. Are the clusters easy to take out of FG falcons?