El Andrew

Puff is right though. Weld the gate shut and send it.

Any decent should be able to - it's a little fiddly but nothing complex. Sorry that's what I was trying to explain above - that mod DOES NOT unlock extra power. It helps you limit the boost so you don't get unintended spikes. It doesn't increase your maximum boost or power levels. Baby turbo is going to max around 309-320kw. For $850 or so you can get a Pulsar GTX3576 gen 2 equivalent supercore to bolt up to your existing rear housing. That will go more power but will definitely need the flapper mod. Edit: weird post delay, but same-same

How much is the mod? If it's affordable and helps you sleep at night then probably worth it [emoji846] If you are good on the tools you will save a heap by removing the turbo yourself.

Sort of. The boost spike happens because the turbo controls boost by opening the wastegate but its size limits the extent to which it can do this. Exhaust gases make the turbine spin, which makes the compressor spin, which compresses the intake air. When you have more exhaust gas than you need to make all that happen for the target boost, the wastegate opens to relieve the excess. If the wastegate isn't big enough then not enough exhaust gas is released and you make more boost than your target. Is worse when cold as cold air is denser and makes more 'boost' than warm air. As Gaz said, stock FG turbo is going to struggle to make more than 15 psi. Tuning for a lower boost target won't make a difference, as this issue is due to exceeding mechanical capability. Managing wastegate control as the limit is approached will help. Surplus injector capacity won't help much as you won't have a fuel table that knows what to do at unplanned boost levels - so the computer won't know to use that extra capacity. But if you are targeting rich AFRs at peak boost you are probably pretty well covered. Each exhaust combo is different though. If your tuner says he can't do it without a bigger wastegate port and flapper then must have a reason. But yes, plenty of 300ish FGs with stock turbos out there without the wastegate modded. Edit: Have a read of some info on how turbos work. Some of the above posts are correct and some aren't. Flapper and port mod doesn't help you make more power, it helps you maintain control over peak boost. Boost don't leak out the exhaust. There are plenty of good books and articles if you want to get into the nitty gritty.

I agree - those new factory runs are awful. I reckon go black or charcoal for the new ones. 17/18 inch wheels on any 4WD with big tyre sidewalls looks way better. Can you do a switcheroo on the wheels with the old car?

Haha the warranty company Pickles use just rang to sell me a third party warranty for the Subaru. Yeah, nah.

Hopefully! Actually I was having a similar conversation with someone at work the other day - VW Australia were saying talk to the dealer, the dealer was saying talk to VW. Under Australian Consumer Law, the consumer can choose whether to seek a remedy through either the seller or the manufacturer, and neither can tell them to go to the other

Doesn't seem like too many ways to do that wrong. And you took the precautions to tighten it up at normal ride height, so you'd have to think it was a manufacturing issue? Sucks because they aren't that cheap!

255 is plenty for 400 horsepower. Remember too that the fuel pressure regulator controls fuel pressure, not the pump, assuming the pump is up to the task. Therefore it shouldn't need a retune after a new pump. The exception is that a 460 might have been overwhelming the factory FPR at idle so it might have been tuned around higher fuel pressures. I doubt the pump change will cause you issues, but you can always get the car run up on a dyno for $100 or so to check actual power and AFRs.

Actually the insurance company is being stupidly slow - they towed it almost two weeks ago and still haven't assessed it. Is sitting at a salvage auction yard collecting dust. Car market is always tight in Canberra and can't travel to Sydney or Melbourne at the moment, so when I found the right car I took the risk. In the unlikely event they fix the Kluger, we will just sell it - is probably worth more than the insurance value at the moment anyway.

Thanks! Yep some of the features are pretty impressive. Have to love Shannon's - the guy setting up the policy was trying to talk me into putting a turbo kit on it.

Bought the replacement for the Kluger - 2015 Subaru Outback. Always had a soft spot for these, so nice to get one. Got the 3.6 engine for MOAR poweh, which means absolutely every available option as part of the package. Is fantastic to drive so far. Full dealer service history, near new Bridgestones and condition wise it is hard to tell it's not brand new. I'll probably fall out of love with it the first time I need to change spark plugs on a boxer engine...

Pull the heat shielding off and check the bolts and nuts for engine to exhaust manifold and manifold to turbo. Sounds like a big exhaust leak. You may have even had a bolt back all the way out. If so, all of you exhaust gases are escaping out rather than going through the turbine wheel and spinning up the turbo properly, which explains the loss of power

Nice. I'm a big Pixel fan - 3XL still going strong. Is interesting to compare to my work iPhone - first iPhone I've used properly for any length of time. Lots of things I like better about the Pixel which are just personal preference, but the keyboard is light years ahead of the iPhone in terms of prediction, accuracy and speed in my experience.

My FG rocker was bubbling, and then paint came off when Ford cleaned the engine to replace timing cover seal. I just bought high temp paint and repainted it in the car. Not as good as doing it properly, but looks heaps better and will get me through to whenever I next need the cover off and can paint it properly.

Insurance value is $14k so would be tough to fix for that I think. Plus the engine and front panels are intact so would have good wreck value for them.

Not sure what he was doing - some sort of lapse in concentration I guess. Is/was a Kluger. Am hoping it gets written off but will see. The mounting points for the main crash member in the rear are damaged and the door hinges up top aren't level. The rear quarter panel has weird spots of paint missing where is has obviously flexed and bounced back. You can see how close the young fella was to the action by where the rear headrests is.

Pretty thankful for modern day crash structures. We had just stopped at a red light last night and got rear ended by a LandCruiser with a tandem axle trailer full of tools. Youngest was sitting in the third row with the dog. We got pushed about 6 metres forward. Pretty confident the car is rooted but main thing is everyone walked away.

Just reading your older posts. Ford do something weird with their temperature info. I'm using an UltraGauge and have the same problem with it switching between actual temp and -40 and have had an auto electrician comment on the same with a scan tool. For gauges or scanners without the specific Ford calculations in them, there is something programmable you can do with a custom PID. I need to do it to the UltraGauge but haven't gotten around to it.

I just laid bamboo floors - does that count?

I've recently updated my stuff to Bosch Professional. No real reason other than I had some Bosch green stuff that took a hell of a beating without complaint, so I was already impressed with their entry level stuff. I doubt you can go wrong with any of the major brands. Actually Bunnings just had a Bosch impact wrench with 5.0 battery and charger for $199 so I jumped on that to add to my kit. Catching up on all the sock chat - wearing these for the first time today. Kids ordered them for my birthday but took weeks to arrive - sock fit is terrible, but I have a Vixen FG on my socks so can't complain. Was some Chinese site where you could upload photos and get custom printed designs.

Tryme has a good point though - sometimes the heat exchangers fail quickly, sometimes slowly - but when they do, your ZF is stuffed. Much better to put in an aftermarket air-to-oil cooler and cut the coolant out if the transmission loop altogether.

It's all in the tune mate. PCMTec allows for custom OS to be written to the PCM so that it takes certain cues from certain inputs. There's literally no wiring or anything - you just need a good tuner who uses PCMTec and knows how to do this. Will be pricier than a "normal" tune though and I still reckon you could have a normal tune written to suit your needs and style without needing to worry about a button. But understand the cool factor of having a button!

Ah there you go. Neat.

Sounds like you are saying you want a NOS style button, not actual NOS? Doesn't the accelerator pedal already do this? You modulate it based on how much power you want in the situation. If you wanted it more subdued at light throttle and all the hectics at higher throttle, your tuner can easily map it that way in the tune. PCMTec can do boost by gear, so you could have it tuned for different boost targets depending what gear you are in. Can also have the tune switchable from the cruise buttons, but not quite suited to actually changing it during a lap, between corners, etc. For an actual button or switch to immediately change the tune you'd probably need to look at going to a Haltech ECU.