El Andrew

Always the way - the stuff you need last turns up first

Happy birthday Keith!

I agree sometimes Redbook undervalued some models. Values for FG XR6 Turbos look a little low for example While you are correct it is worth more than a petrol XR6 (non-Turbo), the petrols are not worth much. There is a kinetic blue EcoLPI on CarSales described as excellent condition with 59,000 km for $15,999 which gives you a bit of a guide.

Better than bolting it all up and always looking at it and wishing you had done it

We all care about the environment on this forum. Anyhoo, thinking of punching out the cat on my 4L turbo Barra so I can make all the powerz. Thoughts?

Haha this was to convince the wife to let him sleep outside! Got sick of cleaning up after him and needed him to survive Canberra winter nights. Has plywood internal walls, wool insulation in the walls and roof, foam and foil tiles under the floor and heavy plastic to waterproof the roof.

In related news I made a dog kennel and insulated it

Pretty sure the whole pedal box moves in and out - they don't adjust independently of each other.

Those are FG lux pack wheels though - FGX LPs are different. But I don't know if the FGX wheels will fit Brembos!

Depends how mechanically minded you are. But essentially it's all nuts and bolts and there's no magic about it. Read some how tos and watch some videos to get some tips and things to avoid - you will want to think through what's involved and make your own list to cross off as you go.

Thanks for that. I guess I am doing that already in a sense as I'm targeting pretty rich AFRs when it's under load so that there is plenty of safety margin.

Good work! I'm still suspicious I've got some fuel pressure issue as I've had to scale the low slope a bit to get the fuel trims close to zero on F6 injectors, when really you'd expect I could use factory F6 data no worries. High slope is fine - actual lambda matches target lambda perfectly so unlikely to be a supply issue. Occasionally stalls if you pull up to a stop too quickly and the trims fluctuate a bit. Have checked most things so have grabbed a GFB reg and gauge so I can check the pressure myself. Mechanic checked the pressure once but complained he had to remove the rear seat so fark know what he did. Obviously neither the supply or return at the pump assembly are an appropriate place to confirm fuel pressure! So I think I've effectively just tuned around some other issue as well. I keep meaning to dig around in PCMTEC to find the table where it switches fuel cut off as you return to idle - if I raise that threshold a smidge I might fix the stall. Anyway, this is your thread not mine [emoji16]

Whoops I read the weights around the wrong way!

You'd be surprised then if the ute was quicker off the line - the 15kg weight saving is offset by a leaf sprung live rear axle rather than IRS

Ah right didn't realise you had to drop the tank in the Tez.

Glad I could help! Does the Terry have the FG style lock ring where you need a tool to pop it open, or 6x screes holding it down. I miss the screw down lock ring on the BA...

Even if it is the hose, if you have to mess around opening the tank and sorting hoses and the pump is old, might make sense to chuck a new one in anyway. #justifyingupgrades

Haha I hadn't seen that duck whistle thing - did LOL

20 pounds is fine. 30 not so fine.

Haha saw this on the internet and so suddenly decided it was the most urgent thing I needed to do. Gives the kids a laugh.

You could put a hose on there and connect to your gauge. You'd have to still reduce it down to the size of that new line though, using the T. So you could plumb the gauge to the t with the supplied line. Then connect some vac line from the spot where the bolt currently is to the T. Then a bit more line off the T that you then block with a bolt. For reference, this is what a BOV set up looks like with a vac line to control the valve.

It looks like your boost gauge line is smaller diameter than the vac lines, but has that T piece. So connect that line to the gauge and into the middle of the T. Then just cut a vac line under the bonnet and connect those to each end of the T. I'll grab a photo later if the sort of thing you are looking for. That BOV you have taken a photo of is the actual air path for the BOV, not the vacuum line that controls operation of the valve. There will be a much smaller line floating around somewhere that been blocked off as well. You see the size you are looking for when I grab a photo.

Yeah that sucks mate. Hopefully it does the job quickly and you guys are back where the rest of us are soon. Snowies cruise looking a bit hit and miss at the moment!

Happy birthday mate!

Almost right - make sure you get a pro to do it and you'll be fine