Ale

This the one? Straight bolt in or are mods required? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/172363299530 KICKER 10C84 COMP SERIES 8" 100W RMS SINGLE 4-OHM SUBWOOFER SVC FREE AIR USE

It will drive different to the BA due to the 6 speed, and different to the FG due to the front end and smaller turbo. Suggest you drive one. I prefer The FG even though the smaller turbo gives less scope for mods.

Forgot to mention, I shipped a car for a mate from the ACT earlier this year, 350 HQ Monaro so we got an enclosed service thru CEVA, it was $1000 depot to depot. An open service was half that , CEVA was cheapest by far. Only thing is that it will go to NSW first, then come here, took 4 days I reckon. It’s a boring 14hr drive each way, done the trek across the hay plains way too many times, usually whilst towing a race car EDIT: Have you driven a B series?

Car looks much nicer and its newer too, a proper BF2. It’s obviously had the car yard spruce up, but having a look at that bay shows it hasn’t been molested, all inlet plumbing hose clamps match for example. I’d look at getting all the service history you can get, plus have an independent inspection done. The latter will cost you a couple hundred but will come with many photos and proper report that you can then use to either negotiate a deal or peace of mind. Again, it’s a “base” with no options and its black. Look killer when clean, but will only stay clean for minutes. Also be sure to inspect the car whilst the sun is low in the sky to get a true idea of the body and paint, dark colours look great in shade or when the sky is high, but side on at dusk will give you a good look at any repairs or true state of the paint work. Getting such a car thru rego here in SA should be fine, especially if its stock and in good nick. Anything under 10K purchase price would be reasonable IMO

Looks nice, but they often look better in pix. Low kms for the year and service history would help with knowing a fair price. Looks to have cloth interior and no options, he says its Ego in colour yet it's Mercury Silver. Go take a look and drive, B series drives different to F, specially stock in relation to spool. Be a good thing at 10k if in good nick and some history

Ideally, you'd like to buy it as is, at a cheaper price and take care of the repairs yourself, that way you ensure they are done to a high standard and a potential to upgrade at the same time , ie suspension bushes. Unfortunately, I don't think you have much of a choice, simply cos its at a yard and they have to supply 3 months warranty on a road worthy car, shagged rear bushes technically aren't roadworthy. So they will get the cheapest bushes and tyres then install themselves or by the cheapest workshop they have access too. Best case if you really want the car and its good value is to negotiate they stick to the sticker price after repairing the things on the report. Having said that $500 for a set of bushes, tyres and fitting them is reasonable in the big scheme of things, it would cost you more if that makes sense. Is this the car with the swirl marks? all adds up to an unloved car, Id be expecting some more surprises in the near future if you buy it

haha, cheers, like I said, IMO, they look just fine factory, could probably lower it a bit. I see second hand LSD's for under $500 all the time, the question would be working out why its for sale/what condition its in. Local ford wrecker quoted similar with warranty + fitting Id say for the average person, finding one out of a standard car that's been crashed would be a good option. No different to the one you would get when buying a second hand car, only you get to inspect it before buying. Pretty straight forward thing to freshen up too, but depending on the deal you can find, a brand new true track or something that will deal with proper abuse may not be much more. After consider the work/labor cost of swapping it in that's the killer, but if doing it at the same time as the rear bushes, your in front. In anything but a straight line, mine just smokes the inside, and even when in a straight line its unpredictable and often chops and changes which wheel or if both spin. Ive had the traction light come on at 140km/hr whilst over taking in the rain on the hwy, its appalling that Ford didn't even offer it an option.

The main thing that is a detractor for the G series to me is the single wheeler, my mates YOLO me all the time and makes driving it spirited pretty sh*t. XR LSD slots straight in, and mine will get one at the same time it gets its first round of rear end bushes. My Mk2 only had 16k on it, Ive put 4 on it in 6months. Going from a BF that had done 145, the ride in the G feels much tighter and firm, I think you would have to drive a XR and G the same day to notice the ride difference, plus they'd have to have the same wear and tear to be able to say whats rides and how I prefer the G series interior, and even when "fully loaded" the XR6 doesn't have as many options as the G unit. Obviously, the looks are subjective as to whether you prefer the G or the XR, personally I will leave the G looking 100% stock, but if Id got an XR it would need to be slammed on staggered 20's to keep me happy for the record, I bought my G from WA, had it independently inspected and sent across the bight, maybe I got lucky but I got a better car than expected.

Yep, I own a lightening strike Mk2 G6et. The extra tech inside over a Mk1 or even a base Mk2 really makes the drive that little bit better. The ICC is very nice to use on a whole, the sound system is acceptable for most and the navigation works well. Only thing I don't like is the track order upon restart when reading off a USB skips back and incoming calls don't show Caller ID. I believe a software update fixes this, I'm awaiting a visit to fraud for another reason before I do this. Leather, electric seats all make the fact your in a falcon that little bit nicer. Auto darkening read vision mirror is not very nice, lowering passenger side upon reverse is a nice touch though. The front of a Mk2 looks much more modern compared to the Mk1, the projector headlights are nice, but make the car look cross eyed. MK2 really deserved some nicer LED taillights, even FGX ones are pretty old looking for a modern car. Even though they look wicked, white late model falcons are prone for rust issues at the edges of panels, specially if left dirty or on a beach side suburb. Summary, driving wise, I think buying an optioned MK2 over a optioned MK1 is chalk and cheese, not so much if buying base models vs Base models

thanks for sharing mate, and great work going the extra step with the removal of the valve assembly. can I ask which actual cooler core you went with and how many metres of hose you used?

Id say they stuffed up the rear end bushes / re install of the cradle and what your feeling is either a driveshaft or tail shaft balance issue. Ford even fine balance the tail shaft on the car. Leave the car as stock as possible, if something else is broken, they could blame the extra killawasps from the intake as the cause. Some dealers will sue any excuse to get out of a warranty claim.

Nice one, cheers.

Thanks mate, that's what I was after, I didn't know speedflow did them I will get onto pricing them. Slowly piecing it all together, have the PWR core PN aswell, just need to string it all together

pretty sure those areoflow ones are dash 6, 3/8". they then need an adaptor

I'm sure some of you are running 1/2" or dash 8 hose? any links to what fitting you used at the box end ? cheers

Still has its place IMO, still good value at $900 for a no cut , bolt in proposition able to hold 350 rwkw. Not everyone wants 400-500rwkw or can justify $2000+ to throw at a cooler

Message me a price on the stepped PWR? Considering buying one atm. Cheers!

Drive line slack and clunks are part and parcel of these cars. Much more evident in manuals thus will flog rear end bushes quicker. Only thing in my old BF that was better than in my FG2 is the known driveline shunt after a hit in a FG.

Agree, once the WD40 or what ever lube is gone, the density of the air in that tract reverts back to normal thus ramp rate goes back to what it was. To the OP, did you make sure the flapper doesn't catch on the bigger port? Would hate to hear that your laggyness is due to the flapper jamming open a tad. But kudos to you for sticking to your decision and trying to come up with a solution. Regardless what happens back on the dyno, at least you've given it your all and learnt something, plus shared it with all of us!! thanx mate

Have my eye on this cooler aswell, or the PWR stepped. Simply because they say no cut. I actually rung Plazma, guy I spoke to said on some cars the top reo support bar still needs some love. Just hoping to max the standard FG turbo, then look at supporting 350 when the baby dies and I upgrade

yeh kinda, but not everybody does all that. Tune, injectors, cat, pump and cooler, one days work returning back to stock. Also, say you have a low km late model FG F6, worth over 40k and you've modified it and it gets defected, what do you do then to get it regoed again? Not to mention, many off these cars would have money owed against them. Each to their own, but Id rather the be able to reverse any mods I do on such a car

Cheers.

Jet, can this plastic be returned to stock by bolting in an uncut one if need arises?

This plastic rail that gets cut on most coolers , can I assume it bolts to the car? ie you can return it to stock by replacing it with a virginal one?

that's what I'm getting at