stee3

He is refering to the actuator bracket...

Are you giving advice on what studs to use because you have done one and you know or is it just an assumption that it will work? You will not fit a 16mm girdle in one without cutting out the bottom of the sump and dropping the tray lower I garantee you of that and you dont need a girlde that thick either. The 16mm girdles are desighned for dry sup setups which Brad confirmed for me. Even with the 10mm girdle you will not be able to get an APR stud kit to fit under the rear of the sump the nuts are simply too tall. You will end up either using main bolts all around or on the rear 4 caps or you will need to fit the atomic main studs which are a shorter nut and still have to grind the rear of the sump to clear the nuts as well. This is what happened to the last 4 engines I have built using Atomic girdles. This is all done for you if you purchase a complete engine from them. And before someone states it I know you have to grind the sump out to clear the girdle but you will also need to grind out to fit main studs.. Ninka I also noticed you used main studs in you build to hold the girlde and caps down. Was this so you wouldnt have to modify the sump?

Yes at adicted they work together.. did Headsex tune tune yours on the street or dyno?

What part of the tune are you trying to find out if its in closed or open loop, Boost? Fuel? etc...

I'll tune it entirely in open loop (duty cycle only) especlally boost control and and where ever else I can. I'll have a read through the Advantage manual in the next day or so and I'll figure out how to scale the MAP sensor.

Im going to use the factory boost controller should do the trick but if it doesn't its easy enough fit an eboost.

I havnt scaled one before but I'll data log the one that's on there at the moment. I'll have to see what the voltage and signal are doing and go from there, I'm sure I'll figure it out but if you have any information that would be great too..

Hey all I'm about to start tuning my car, I have a tough engine that I built and want to put around 30-35PSI of boost into it. I have been told the factory MAP sensor can only read up to 28PSI so I'm wondering what MAP sensor the guys with over 30PSI are using? I'm assuming the factory MAP sensor is a 2 bar unit so I'd like to get 4 bar sensor.. Any help would be appreciated.

Did dynowog tune it? You need a new tuner mate..

Cool mate should hold boost well!! You should of had your manifold made to suit a spit pulse won't make a difference if you put a split pulse turbine housing on it now.. Will be good to see this thing go once its finished. Hopefully it doesn't blow up like last time.

Why would you place the wastegate on the turbine and not on the pipes? 500rwkw is a lot of power l!!! What size is that wastegate?? Is that a T4 flange or a T6 flange I cant tell by the picture id say T4 why wouldn't you use a split pulse turbine?

Your cheapest option. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/270953899661?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1586.l2649#ht_500wt_1287

I'm in Tony! I can only hope *Beep* comes. There are a list of street king I want to whipe the floor with So can we race with semi's?

Better of going GTX35 than putting a T04z(66mm) front whee they will flow the same amount but the GTX is a better turbo by far. I had a GTX core in my standard turbo. I payed $2300 for a fully rebuilt gt35 with a GTX35 centre with ported rear housing and 12psi actuator..

Have you tried this mob? http://www.xr6turbodevelopments.com.au/turbo_accessories.html

http://youtu.be/wrZd-Jmo2iY Borroed a mates SCT software as I now have my car running with Crow Stage II cams in it. Spent a bit of time trying to get them to idle right but im almost there. Next ill lower the idle down to about 850PRM but need to fiddle around some more with the ISC Neutral\Drive and idle air tables some more. Im amazed when I jump into other XR6Ts with same cams just how rough the engines actually run especially idle surge. As you can see you can make them idle very smooth.

I have the 14.3mm head stud in mine and I have them torqued to 125ftb. Sorry to hear about the head gasket! What head gasket do you have in your motor Im using the Cometic gasket had to modify it to get it to pass the head studs. I hope it all holds

You need to get AFRs right before you start with timing and boost.. This smells like a DynoWog tune to me.

How did you do the tensioner last time? I have done about 12 cars moslty mates cars and every time I do it I say that's the last one. Tensioner doesn't need to come off, Release the timing chain tension by compressing the tensioner with the tensioner locking tool. If you dont have one just use a coat hanger I did it like that the first time, then I made the proper tensioner tool after that. Good Luck with it.

I had Dave at RVO build a "big banger" 4 speed auto for my BA died in 3 months, chewed up 3 planitary gear sets in the process! A. Previous to that sent a mate there he had the similar issues! I guess you a lucky one mate.. Bayswater transmissions did the next one and lasted until I sold the car..

Great link thanks so much. Are you referring to airflow as speed density table? I don't have access to the software all the time just occasional. Where about is the speed density table?

Does anyone have handy the DEKA 80LB Scalers? Playing around with a mates car in a day or 2 don't want to have to begin from the start to scale them. Being a little lazy.. Breakpoint- High slope- Low slope- Minimum pulse width- Matty,

I could go another set of ID2000's x 6 if the price is right.

WOW 1600HP what type of piston and rods are you going to get? Have you changes the cast main caps or are you just relying on the girdle to keep it from walking? My pistons are rated at 250HP each but im sure they will hold a little more. What the compression ratio of this thing? Im sure you have de-compressed it more because with the standard comp ratio you will strugle to get any timing into it with 35PSI of boost.. 2 and half years in the build this thing sounds like it will be the tough..

Before the fit.