Slash

Just regular Etnies Yep. F6 intake $70 v Growler $450 - $600. Check all the threads in 300+ section & compare how many cars are using F6 intakes compared to growlers to back up the 'bang for buck' assumption. Check the 400+ section. How many cars are running a growler with 400 real wheel killowatts? Anyone that is will be working their turbo alot harder than it needs to be with a better flowing intake such as PW or Plazmaman 4". $600 will get you a gram & an hour with a street rat. Better than a cheap piece of fibreglass that will become obsolete once the need for more power hits. If you want experience as evidence, I can't give it. I wasn't silly enough to buy a growler & have no interest in buying one now to prove my theory...

Crashed, just re-locate it to the boot. Makes life much easier if you need to replace battery, jump start, run stereo cables, run relays for big fuel system etc etc & is cheaper/neater when a decent battery box is used. Should get out of it for ~$150 with new cables made upto lendth by an auto sparky & a battery box from Superdump or the likes

Cheapest place for DBA gear is ebay. Used to be a truck mob in Welshpool that could bring in DBA at cost, then would pass on at same price + carton of beer. Worked out well if you had a few things to order!

Induce oversteer before understeer kicks in. Problem solvered

What? That offset on the rear is weak as piss for an FG... 10.5" wide with +15 & a little bit of neg camber for sedan, +5 or so for ute with ease.

Not SS inductions. F6 secondary intake is the cheapest & best bang for your buck intake. Fact 1 Growler intake will more than likely need to be swapped in coming months due to not being capable of supporting big power as good as a 4" intake. Fact 2 Your $600 would be better spent on coke & hookers. Fact 3 Hopefully my opinion will be left this time as it is backed up with factual data. Sorry if I offended SS Inductions as a company, and my opinion puts you out of business. If that happens I will eat my shoe

N00b move 101! With an old boy like yours, I would have been out at 14 Nope. The ones I sold you were exactly as described... Will buy them back if any doubts. Sold it to a dealer? Laugh away then as he'll have warranty! Might be a good idea for someone to let him know it has issues next time it's spotted, then he can go back & have the dealer fix it for free!! WINNING! Go to local Ford dealer (screwdriver in hand), get Mark to lift his skirt & distract the salesmen with those lovely legs, you quickly pop out button from a car on the lot, pass to Jenna & have her run/hide around the corner! Easy Ooorrrr, hit up Walliston Wreckers in Kalamunda. 92913278 Coming on Antilag cruise next Friday night D?

The Ford dealer you are dealing with aren't a site sponsor, so slag away!

Selling under the presumtion it was all good, then coming out with the above comment is low imo & seems as though you were bragging. I've sold a few sh*tters over the years, don't get me wrong. I have never sold a car privately that was in need of repair without letting the prospective buyer know though... Only to caryards as they have to pass on a mandatory warranty to the new owner

SS Inductions kits are a waste of money, as has been expressed by the majority of this forum at one point or another. Now that they are a sponsor, no opinion that isn't showing them in a positive light will be deleted... Informed decisions based on all member's opinions?? I think not.

1.61 on et streets, zf 6speed bf F6 sedan

To get a quality home, you need to go through a small construction company such as Total Construction, operated by Ross (tinyplums) & Matt (Esky). They deal with a limited number of projects at a time, meaning attention to detail is there. Big companies such as Dale Alcock & Gemmill load each supervisor with 30+ homes at a time, meaning alot of the work (all subcontracted out to smaller specialised companies) is not checked appropriately/at all. You get what you pay for in the house building game, much like any other service these days. If you want perfection you either have to go owner builder or open your wallet & prepare to be shafted... Without lube (Unless of course you use Total Construction). /Shameless Plug.

Take it to someone who knows what they are doing. You clearly don't, as you can't distinguish between middle & rear mufflers

Trade in & put the $4k towards a BF MkII. Thank me later.

Would say it didn't include on-road costs... Bringing the total closer to $70k with taxes, stamp duty & rego

Dynowog = piss stain Headsex = legend Not farking same!

Where from? Last price check I did only turned up a GS for that sort of money, which meant lots & lots of laughter ensued! That's a good price if Grouting is also included Arron. Steve, it's $50k extra for a reason. There is a heap of work involved when trying to co-ordinate a project as big as building a house for a newb. I'd probably go with an 'Off The Shelf' plan & let someone qualified manage the construction phase for your first home. Try & be there as much as you can while it's going up & be involved anywhere you can to pick up hints/tips for next time

*Brake Pads... Unless you are planning on breaking your pads Luke is correct with your pad options. Bendix are utter rubbish & I wouldn't piss on them! QFM would be my pick of the cheaper oftions, otherwise try the Ferodo DS2500's which are slightly dearer & loads better.

Better off not attempting maintenance on the driveway if you don't have the correct tools. Ends up costing much more time & money than if you just took it to a professional straight away, or outlay for decent/correct tools in the beginning. Been there, done that.

Why ask if the mods don't want the extra workload caused by the old system? The new system isn't user friendly, probably misses 50% of potential buyers due to not being visible in 'New Posts' & sucks how your ad expires after 30days (selling expensive or not-so-common parts usually takes longer than this). I think you will find that all members (not mods) will want the old system back.

Feel sorry for the new owner If that's what you need to beleive to sleep at night, sure Just get your car to the track! I'll even race you in the calais which I have down there every Wednesday... Surely you could beat a NA Full weight barge with a boat anchor LSX motor??

For a real benifit when switching fuels, try Sucrogen E85! Picked up nearly 150awhp with 3psi more boost & a sh*tload more timing, which Ethanol allows for

Seeing as I've owned both, & heavily modified both... I think my opinion holds some weight. Trust me, imports are dearer in every sense apart from tuning, where you are charged for dyno time only instead of a flat rate. The only guy with a modified car worried about fuel consumption Not might... WILL! You will be in my rear view mirror from start to finish Make it after Powercruise as that's when I plan on going down. Wouldn't mind getting the bigger squirters & new ignition system in first though as I'm still a long way off where it should be in terms of power output. What was your average kms per tank on U98? Have you checked for fault codes, faulty coil(s), fouled plugs etc? Could be the root cause of the stalling, rather than fuel.

If it doesn't run a 10, I'll say the exact same thing I said to Adrian... TOO MUCH POLISH UNDER THE BONNET! CAR THINKS IT BELONGS AT AUTOSALON, NOT ON THE DRAG STRIP Ricer's are great. Heaps of lag, unreliable, expensive to fix/maintain etc etc. You don't know what you're missing!! Haha

Less talk, more skids. Are you in perth between 30/09 & 02/10 Jon? PC is on over here on those dates, so I can take you for a few batlaps in a real car