I have a tuned auto ba and I average about 10.5-11 on the highway,stock was 10-10.5, the average on the trip computer says 15 but by working it out the old fashion way that's what I get.
Nah im not touching it,knowing my luck with this car recently it wont go back on and I will have to tow it to my tuner.Anyway tuners back monday so he can sort it out.
Yeah I have and some say its like a squeal and others say a ticking sort of noise. My father in law thought it sounded like a water pump bearing is on its way out ,he reckons it sounds like a car he had that needed a new water pump.
Today and yesterday when I have got home and got out of the car to open the garage it has had a ticking /chattering sound from the front of the car, it isnt the injectors and it is louder with the bonnet closed and seems to be coming from behind the bumper/grill region, and I checked when I started it this morning cold but it was as quiet as a church mouse. I cant notice it when reving it or from inside the car while idling only once I get out so it isnt really loud. Unfortunately my tuner isnt back till the 16th so I thought I would ask you guys. Could it be idler pulley?
I changed the o2 sensor 6 months ago. It had a issue with the cold start but that has been fixed and has been good but this intermittent issue doesnt bother me but the wife is loosing trust in it. It happened to her just before and it did it twice in a row but she had the A/C on when starting the car and on the third attempt she turned it off but she said it started then the revs dropped to 400rpm and the car was rough for a sec then it slowly went up to just under 750rpm. I tried to replicate it and its seems okay with the A/C on at the moment.
Hi Guys, The last few weeks have been having a issue with starting the car once it is warmed up. Occasionally it will start but then immediately stall. What I have noticed is when I start the car it will rev up to 1000rpm then settle back to about 700rpm and in drive it idles at about 550. But when it stalls or nearly stalls it only revs up to about 800rpm then dives to about 450 then goes back up to 650-700rpm but some times it doesnt catch it at the 450rpm area and it stalls. It is tuned with 80lb siemens injectors. What is the idle rpm in park in a stock car I can't remember but I seem to think it was higher than 700rpm. Any ideas what it could be? P.S -its a BA Auto
I had this dilemma as well, I test drove both and the turbo is faster, better on fuel, more nimble, but if you mean the new supercharged 5.0 that's a different story.
I run the A/C pretty regularly. Did a run down to Canberra it was warm down had it on on the way back it was cooler no A/C averaged 10 down 10.5 on the way back. Its BA MKII and it was stock then, around town doesnt make a difference since tuned A/C on or off hovers around the mid 14s.
Mate go see Joe @ Cresent Motorsport or Spiro @ Autotech. I spent $3500 and got 270rwkw . I wasn't chasing anymore as I want to preserve the BA bottom end and the 4 speed auto. With your budget you should see 300.
I should of said mines tuned to 98ron and I wanted mine to be a very safe tune so the tuner didnt put a heap of timing into it which is what I wanted, he has said if I want more he can put more timing in but Im happy with it.
I have the same rwkw as yours but mines a BA auto and is also pretty docile down low.2000rpm where the torque starts to come on and at 3000rpm I have 880nm. My car does tends to break traction at about 3000rpm in first when I have the foot planted but if I just plant it off the line it sort of builds slowly which I dont mind. If I want a tyre smoking take off I stall it up and bam I have it. Overtaking mine is a weapon
I get between 400-420kms to a tank around town in a BA MKII with a 4 speed auto and its been tuned that includes a few squirts here and there. I used to get the same when it was stock