Ezy2Confuze

Do you happen to get the headlight fault error pop up a few times a month? Or do both the low and high beams fail for the globe or just the low beams? For two years I chased an issue whereby I would get headlight fault errors when turning the car off - it would only occur randomly about 2 -3 times a month - and roughly every three months the low beams would fail, sometimes both globes, sometimes just the one. Once it was fine for 6 months. I replaced the globes with Nava and Phillips crystal visions multiple times and neither resolved the issue. Then one day I thought stuff this and replaced them with the cheap on sale Calibre brand from Supercheap and they - touch wood - have not failed in nearly 2 years. The only thing I did was change the globes, the battery is an Optima yellow top - installed by the auto electrician when my battery was moved to the boot - and has been fine each time it's been tested and only the low beam elements failed. It was really doing my head in, hence why I went the cheap brand, because if I had to keep replacing them, stuff spending $100 or more a pop doing so. Also each time I replaced them, I always wore gloves because of the reason given by K31th.

One of the coolest things I've done here is hitch a ride on the fire truck, I'd much rather play with mini gun toting machines though

It's for mining, so who cares about the cost. That seems to be the the response I get when I've asked about the ordering process where I'm currently at. Just had a look at the web site and I want to know, where's the triple mini gun version with side mounted flame throwers?

Thank you Sir, I always knew K31th was wrong about you 🙂

The G6ET hit 222,222 last Thursday.

So after much frustration with the car running rough intermittently and getting check engine lights and cylinder 5 misfires, then the mechanic saying bad fuel, then saying clogged injectors, I thought stuff it, bought a set of new ID1000's and an OEM FPR to fit to the Falcon. I checked with Raceworks directly as to the best product to put on the O rings prior to fitment and they stated petroleum jelly: Hey David . When you put it on please only put the tiniest amount , Petroleum jelly is the best we have found But I do have one question, if I pull the fuel rail to make sure there's no accumulated gunk - it is an 11 year old car after all and I have no idea what the previous owner did or used prior to my obtaining the car - what is the best way to clean out the fuel rail? I have an air compressor and an old bath tub I can soak it in if required but I just want to make sure if I blow it out with an air compressor, the force of the air won't do any damage or if I need to soak it in something, what's the best cleaner to use? A new fuel filter was installed three weeks ago when they looked at the issue, I'm tossing up whether to replace it again when I do the other stuff. If I still have problems, the next thing is fuel pump and fuel sock, which I'll get them to do, I'll stick with standard until I get the IC, exhaust, CAT and the engine work done - valve springs, CAMS (there was pitting on them the last time Rob looked), oil pump gears, timing chain and guides - once dad's house settles which is still 3 to 6 months away due to my sister playing funny buggers.

My Logitech Z-5300 setup is still going strong since March 2010. I didn't want the hassle of having an amplifier etc. and after reading a review about them being heard 4 blocks away, I was sold.

Looks like the mechanic's going to have fun troubleshooting why the Falcon started spluttering yesterday morning on the way to work for about 5 minutes, then intermittently a few times last night. I already had the car booked in for it's service on Monday. Of course it was fine this morning when I dropped by to let them know what happened and have it added to the notes. Torque threw up the following three codes (responses from https://fordforums.com.au/dtc/dtc.php): Model DTC # Description Mechanical Sensor Electrical Other FG P0305 Misfire cylinder 5. Loose or damaged engine loom. Faulty injector. Defective coil pack or spark plug. Engine mechanical defect. Induction or exhaust system leaks. Model DTC # Description Mechanical Sensor Electrical Other FG B1318 Battery Voltage Low.CHECK battery voltage; to be above 9.0 volts. Model DTC # Description Mechanical Sensor Electrical Other FG P1285 Cylinder head overheating (CHT).Engine overheating. Cooling system defects.Sensor defective.Wiring between sensor and PCM defective.PCM defective. I had the fuel filter, plugs and genuine coils installed 6 months ago at the last service and have had no issues until yesterday, I had the water pump and belt replaced 2 weeks ago with a flush and refill of the coolant - the pump pulley was cracking and wearing the belt. Also the battery usually sits at 14 to 13 volts in Torque and I tested it 3 months ago with a multimeter under load etc. and it was perfect, it's an Optima yellow top. I have a spare ID1000 which I bought through Rob @ MT as a spare for troubleshooting etc. The funniest part is today's payment is the final one for my car loan.

I work as a level 1 and 2 IT Service Desk monkey. It's never boring always new technologies to play with and I like the user interaction side of things. As I said to my old boss at my performance review last year, I actually get to see how what I do makes a difference, whereas the Server guys might upgrade to a new Server version for email etc. but they don't actually get to see how the new features or speed improvements actually improves peoples workload etc. One of the best things about my leaving, is the young guy they kept on left 4 weeks later, because I was doing 80% of the workload - having to re-do his work plus doing my own stuff - which cracked me up.

Good to see the usual banter on here hasn't died down. Been an interesting time for me the last 7 months, was made redundant at the end of April after 11 years, which was fine by me as the new CEO was trying to make the company more like a bank and we were losing our soul. So started a 6 month contract job at the beginning of August and holy hell, 30% more pay, less workload and no stress, plus it's for a company in the mining industry, so I'm getting mine site experience. As it is, the agency I work for has people still here after 4 years and I've already been told the contract will be extended for another 6 months, so I'm laughing. The extra cash is going off to paying off the car loan - last payment this Friday - and other stuff before going into the Car Upgrades budget.

So I recently had the car serviced and had the plugs and coils replaced - I last did these at I last did these at 120,000K's and it just hit 210,000K's - and whilst the rough idle is considerably better, I still have a slight rough idle. I've been slowly doing various things and each time the idle gets better. So I looked at the throttle body and noticed the MAP sensor underneath is clogged with black gunk. I've ordered a replacement for that sensor and the one on the elbow as the car's 11 years old in November and I expect these have never been changed. One thing I noticed with the sensor under the TB is that it has a clip that moves up and down and it looks like the sides need to be squeezed in possibly to pull it off the plug. Before I get all ham-fisted when changing it this weekend, is it best to pull the plug out whilst the sensor is bolted in still and do I need to do anything specific to remove the sensor from the plug? Thanks.

This is the Chrysler Centurion I was talking about https://www.facebook.com/rollracingperth/photos/pcb.3555855794639063/3555855601305749 His mate posted the photo to his Failbook page to rub it in 😁

Yep that's the one, I was going to paste the link but our web security appliances are blocking the page, I've booked my free tickets already. I haven't been on here in ages, the only reason I am on here is to try find a post I did last year for a good diff shop as I can't remember the name of them now and it's time to get an LSD center for the G6ET.

Sorry, Yeah Saturday, then I went to Cars and Coffee on Sunday @ Midvale. There's some rich bloke bringing his Supercars to Wanneroo Raceway either this Friday or next Friday, I'm waiting to find out which day for sure from the same work colleague that raced on Saturday. I'm not sure if it's the same guy that is the online Casino owner who recently bought the track only version of his McLaren or a different rich bloke.

Went to roll racing at Wanneroo Raceway Friday night, as one of the guys at work put $14K worth of LS3 in his Chrysler Centurion, so went to see how he went. https://rollracing.com.au/tc-event-category/roll-racing-perth/ It's pretty fun to watch, check out some of the cars and talk to the competitors, there's a good mix of cars there. I'm definitely bringing the helmet next time for a few ride alongs. They only accept cash - funny that - so either pay by card or order from the site. Next one is May 8.

Anyone else going to Cars & Coffee this Sunday? https://cartorque.co/car-shows/cars-and-coffee-perth-november-meet-2-0-wa-5258

It's just hit 185,000 so timing chain etc in the next 3 - 6 months, so I'd get oil pump gears and springs whilst they are at it. Although to be honest I'm tossing up about going a new engine instead and stage 3 gearbox from MT. That should well and truly last me. I'd be more than happy with around 400kw's. Not sure about going E85, my nearest station is an hours drive away and everytime the tanks need replacing United seems to decide it's not worth selling E85 at that station anymore.

I was looking forward to going for a long drive one day over the weekend but had to leave the car at the mechanics when after changing the brake pads and installing braided lines, they couldn't find out why now - even with the original lines being put back in - it takes ages to now stop. I took it for a test drive and my foot went straigfht to the floor and it took about 3 car lengths to stop from 60km/h. I noticed no feel through the peddle, almost like the ABS wasn;t kicking in at all, so they were calling a specialist brake company they deal with and hopefully I'll find out before lunch time how they went. In the past 6 weeks I've paid $1,700 for new ball joints, control arms and shocks for both fronts, another $470 for them to replace the motor and regulator on the passenger door and replace the master switch and this time because somethng in the passenger door was scratching the window tint and they put a non illuminatoed master switch in, I asked them to do a service, fir the pads, klines, swap the switch for an illuminated once and fix the whatever was scratching the film on the glass. They've also said the brake fluid reservoir was leaking, so they replaced that, they said the booster is fine.

Have the car going in Monday to have the ball joints replaced, I was going to get new brake pads and braided lines installed at the same time but Project Mu fronts are backordered for three weeks. Which is fine because my next service will be due up around then anyway. I have a question though, apparently the bleed nipples are mostly rounded off - a symptom of having the company that fitted the pads and discs when I first got it I expect - and I'm wondering if there's a specific part number I need or if there's some better ones I should get instead.

Bought mine on Friday, hopefully will get here before this weekend and I'll fit it whilst I vacuum and clean the interior.

I love this time of the year, two short weeks in a row.

So it's officially the end of my second full week of WFH and I'm loving it. Of course it's funny watching peoples faces in Zoom meetings when they see me lying back ont the lounge with my snacks and drinks next to me watching everything on the 60" TV whilst they look to be sitting in uncomfortable chairs, plus the bathroom and kitchen are both about 10 steps away from me, so it's pretty cruisey for myself. That being said, back in February we could see where things were going, so we planned for staff being WFH for at least 3 months, which is fine by me, I've been looking at CCTV cameras in between work and sorting out dads taxes, so I'll see about hitting up a certain forum member who I believe does cabling etc. down Mandurah way, as I'm a little too large to be getting up in the roof cavity laying ethernet cable etc. plus I really CBF doing it myself. I've got a 48-port Cisco PoE switch to go into the linen cupboard of the granny flat with a small PC and a UPS to keep it going for a while if anyone decides to flick the switch in the meter box to cut power. So WFH has been particularly productive for me.

To be honest and I'm guessing someones already mentioned this as a possible name to Mrs. Jet, my first thought was Mr. Bigglesworth prior to his being frozen, https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0118655/mediaviewer/rm4272784897

1 just moved home and is waiting to be connected. The rest only have mobile phone plans and considering we use a VPN as opposed to our Citrix connection, the amount of data used is vastly different. Two of the mobile plan people are late 50's to early 60's, so you can sort of understand them not needing it, as they are also not that good with computers.

Bloody hell it's been a busy week. We had to make sure all 135 staff, more than half of which had never worked from home before, had headsets, laptop bags and power adapter's so they could work from home as of Wednesday, after HR sent an email to all staff advising that we are ALL working from home as of the end of this week, until April 10 on Monday night after 8PM. The best news is ICT showed Manglement that we are the most organised section by a long shot, we managed everything including doubling our internet connection, organising extra VPN licenses and everything else in less than a days notice. Also we had to organise internet connections for 5 staff that have NO internet at home whatsoever.