Gee

It possibly could be stuck in warm up mode. This is were the computer chokes the motor. This would explain the rough idles and the high fuel comsumption. If you had a air fuel ratio gauge you could test it. My car sometimes does this. I have changed the same things as you but nothing has fixed it. If you fix the problem let us know.

I have one in my ute and I love is. In the wet is lock a little to early and the rear hopps. You need to run in the truetrac diff. For the first 500 km dont go over 80 kmph and no freeway driving, this will stop the diff centre from being noisy and change the diff oil after the first 1000km.

I'll be in for a pre meet up in hoppers crossing

Sounds like the diff center to me. Lift one of the rear wheels off the ground and see if you can spin the wheel. If you can the LSD is broken. Lucky it still under warranty. My ute was doing the same thing. $2000 later a new super strong diff center and no dreaded noises.

The white wires are the tell the ecu when the exhaust gases/o2 senser is hot enough and start using the os sensor. The black and grey are the variable resistor and it changes resistance as the A/F increase/decrease. This can be do found on the Bosch website if you download the o2 sensor catalog. It also explains how to test them too.

I was up there two weeks ago and know one mesh over there grills. There roads where in good condition with very little traffic and if you caught a local they would pull over when they could. There was roadworks between Falls creeks and Mt Beauty.

They all did it. When you put your foot flat to the floor, the computer open the throttle as is sees fit.

I'm up for a night cruise.

The website saids 450 plus. With the normal mods my made about 350 rwkw but than I detune it to run 325 rwkws. I'm very happy with it and it look petty mean and a black car.

Depends on what other mod you have to go with the cooler.

I have hyperflow intercooler on my BF ute. It is 100mm thick which I think is the widest on the market. Due to the thickness it does causes clearness problems but on the plus side it works very very well. It is one of a few cooler to reduce intake temps on a dyno power. run.

The o2 sensor on a BF has a thicker probe for the dump pipe compared the o2 sensor after the cat. I been have my BF richering up for no reason and when cold running to rich also. I'm working with my tuner now to fix the problem. It this the same problem as you are having Jman

Try northern diffs. If it a diff or auto problem they will be able to tell you and give you a price before they fix it. There is some type of relationship with blue power so the know ford petty well.

I like people expressing there opinion it make an interesting thread. In my opinion the best comprise between performance and handling on the street is the factory set up that is way Ford spends so much money on suspension. I cannot say how an XR8 ute handles but and XR6t ute handles very neutral. With a set of semi slicks I can throw my ute into a corner and it will grip well for a 2 ton car and on the exit it as great grip to drive out. You can get any car to understeer by going into the corner to fast. What makes a great driver is knowing the limits and the strengths of the car your driving and driving to them. But the title of the thread was Track Setup BA Xr8 Ute not the best comprise between street and track use. If you want the best comprise get a set of shocks that have electric adjustable damping. Suspension set up on the track changes from day to day, temperature, track surface etc have to big of an affect on car set up. But to the original question basic suspension set up to stop understeer is reduce front sway bar size or add/increase rear swaybar size.(This information can be found on the internet anywhere) but doing this will affects other parts of the cars handling.

It's only a phone call away to get some advise. These people professional and know the utes inside and out. If you pay them they will setup yous ute better than you could ever imagine.

If you are serious about setting up your car for the track, just found out a workshop that sets up one of the ford brute utes. That will give you the base setting, sway bar size, wheel alignment, if you need a rear sway bar, spring rates etc. These people do it every day and have the faster utes around the track.

Install a rear swaybar, it will reduce understeer and/or reduce the size of the front swaybar.

I know, I just dont want the XR5 drivers to get frustrated with me.

Dam XR5, how can our big heavy cars kept up and you guys with all those driving aids, what chance do utes have.

Any of the dates are good for me at the moment, a BBQ on the top of Lake Mountain would be cool, there heaps of room for the cars and the people..

People with instant fuel consumption gauge, what litres per minute does your car uses at idle. Also mods, tune and tuner was used. My uses 1.6 litre per minute, standard mods, exhaust, injectors, cooler, tune by dynomite.

It could be a CV but when you gives these diff a hard time the LSD destroys itself. To test the LSD, jack up one wheel and see if you can spin it. If you can spin it the diff centre is broken and say bye to 1000+ to reco it or to get a strong centre say bye to 2000+

If the noise is a knock knock knock, it could be the LSD (diff centre) is broken/worn out. I just happen to my.

Running 360 rwkw I would be using a 15 psi actuator but your tuner should recommending the correct actuator for the problem.

It sounds like you have a 9- 12 psi actuator. When the actuator opens the spring pressure isn't strong enough to close. Also with the bigger flap it takes more spring pressure to shut so when you back off it closes and the boost controller keep it shut unit it get to the correct pressure.