Rancidpunx

Mate pull out your glovebox out and then remove your air con filter. If a rodent has got into the car that's where you will find its entry point. There is an air con pipe under the car that rodents can get into and they then chew their way into the car. BA BFs and Terrys have the same problem. I really hope they fixed the issue on the FG. Up behind the dash a rodent could chew plenty of stuff without any evidence of it being in the car on the carpets seats etc.

Ah that's all right, I had to buy everything for my WB AFR separate.

The AFR will depend on whether its Wideband or not. If its not, then its about as useful as a screen door on a submarine. If its wideband then you will need a new bung welded into the dump pipe with a new Wideband oxygen sensor. Then you will need a device that takes the sensors readings and converts them into useful data for your gauge. I have a this http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php. real easy to use. The oil temp as mentioned will need a sandwich plate between the oil filter and block. I would hook the gauge and electrics up and then wait until you drop the oil and then install the plate. Boost is easy. As for the electrics I have run everything off of the ciggy lighter as its only active with the key in the ignition and turned to Accessory. I also put plugs on all the gauge wiring so they can be removed without having to cut all the electrics again. If you want light on only with the headlights ON then you will need to cut a wire in the ICC harness although im not sure which one as there are many to choose from.

FARRRKK, I was expecting the camera car to be the one that got hit. Something like the Ferrari flooring it at the lights only to lose it. Amazing that ferraris passenger survived, serious how?

Depends on the Gauges but its certainly not hard to do yourself. If you have oil reading gauges you will need the relevant fittings for the turbo oil feed line or a sandwich plate to go between the block and filter. The later will require you to wait for a service before you can finish the install. Removing the ICC is pretty straight forward and only takes 5mins to route and hide the wires, only real headache with the FGs if getting a lighting wire to have the gauges only light up with the head lights. I personally wouldn't worry about it, during the day you would not be able to tell they are lit anyway.

You run your aftermarket headunit on the AUX setting for the ICC. Everything still works on the ICC as normal with AUX displayed on the screen.

The runs on the paint work is nothing to worry about. Its because the tonneau is dirty to any water running off of it is dirty as well. To keep it clean just wash it well with the rest of the car and once it is dry apply "303 Aerospace Protectant." Its a non-silicone dressing that provides UV protection, a nice matte finish and is also anti-static so helps keep the dust off. I dont use my tonneau daily but would expect the dressing to last for about 3 months for those that do. Wenier, silicone is not great to be using on the tonneau, it will increase the dirty runs in the paint when it rains, it actually collects dirt faster and your car will be a nightmare to paint if your ever unfortunate enough to have an accident.

I assume so, There also a lot of factory fresh cars (sedans and utes) wearing front tyres in less than 10000ks. Where do I get a camber kit? I dont mind spending money if it will help save me money on tyres.

Old photo but should give you a fairly decent idea. I carry my tonneau and the rails in the back there as well as some back up tools for work.

I think you would be pushed for space unless you position it right down on the drivers side before it steps up. I have a 12" slimline Pioneer boxed sub on that shelf.

No its close to the suspension but does not rub, I think I just need all the camber taking out, but im already on the maximum adjustment according to the tyre shop. Maybe they are just cockends though.

Mine with SSL all round Stock power. Driveways with a rise and then drop (over a footpath or something) pose big problems but generally if its just up or down, its fine on an angle. The tailshaft seems to be ok. Out of warranty now and its got ever so slight amounts of play. At 130kph or so theres a vibration and shudder through the car, but im hoping that's just wheel weights. I have a whine between 104kph and 108kph but only when im on the gas, could be the diff but not really bothering me. The fronts wear quite badly on the inside, which cant be altered during an alignment so I think I need something aftermarket, any ideas?

The top hat is a genuine ford item so its a perfect match not only in colour but also fit. Theres a company in WA called Top End Audio that modify them to except the cups. They bolt up from underneath. If someone had the patience to do it and the tools it would not be to hard to do. You just need to cut 3 holes correctly in the top hat for the cups to sit in and work out a way of securing them.

Put the wires into the pillar. Remove it and also remove the door seal, that will give you plenty of access to feed wires from the pillar to under the dash. You can also pull the side dash panel off for some more space.

Anyone who has said they obstruct your view in FG1s is an idiot As you can see my GPS sits higher and its positioned as far down as it will go. The bulge in the bonnet sits higher when your seated. The FG2 with 8" touch screen has a redesigned top hat so the current pods available from ASL and SS will not fit.

the ticking will be because the fan has leafs and dead bugs in it. Pull your glove box out and then the filter then clean it all out.

Theres a place on the sunny coast that does a complete grilled lower mouth section. Just pull out the original black trim and push in the new one. http://www.falconparts.com.au/ford-falcon-ba-xr6-turbo-xr8-lower-front-black-bumper-bar-grille.html

Black steering wheel controls?

I would have a guess that your speedo will be more accurate with the 20s than with the stock 18s. Get a GPS to confirm.

XR6T's are already the Hoons car of choice according to the governments Hoon handbook. However there will always be an abundance of white commodores with faded tail lights with an arm out the window flying the bogan flag.

Yeah I noticed this too so made sure to stop in on my way home.

I believe Herrod just use king springs anyway. FordFreak1 is on the money though, speak to Pat.

Absolute rubbish. Somebody actually shot out the Landsborough camera not to long ago. Good on whoever did it.

I have revolution gauges and they stay in the last position so I assume its a normal thing. I also use the same sandwich plate and the use power off of the Aux socket. I dont think you want constant power because your gauges would stay on permanently, it would be like wiring them straight to the battery. You sound like you need to source power from an Ignition circuit, that way they only power up when the car is started. I dont know of any easy wires but I would not have thought its a great idea to be playing with Ignition circuits. I would imagine Colbalt would have thought of the power interruption during start up though. I would think most if not all cars do the same thing. Surely they would just start the calibration process again once the car fires up.