Hotwire

New Shoes: 19x8.5 (245/35) & 19x9.5 (275/30) Just need to sort out what to do with rear cap (as thread for pulling CV into the hub by the pacnut pokes out to where cap sits)

Ikon Zest? I preferred the TE Style, however can understand the change from white

Go to a crash shop and have it plastic welded and repainted. It will be much cheaper than a new bar.

Paint it the same colour as the eye-shadow!!

So many pregnant wifey's! My wife is nearly 16 weeks, due July 4 (10 days before our Sons 5th birthday)

I just ordered a set of wheels in exact same size/offset with 245/35 (f) and 275/30 ® So I WILL need to roll? I thought I would avoid rolling (just!) Would I need to have +30(f) +38® to avoid rolling? Need to know ASAP as will have to change order in the morning...

What's the name of the facebook group most of you are on? I tried to follow the event link but to no avail....

Shall do my best to get a leave pass for the evening. would be good to put faces to names on here.

Wondering more width / offset. I'm lookin at LM replica 19x8.5, 9.5 stagger and can choose offset. Thinking +25, +35 with 245/275 combo. Will that need a guard roll though?

Any idea of sizes on that FG?

I'm happy to buy those off you if you want to find something different

Dont suppose you have the blade badge for the side skirts? mine have the chrome peeling. Happy to come collect from you.

Sell them for how much you paid for them - and via a Honda forum should nett you more $$

Well I'm heading down to the JAFS cruise in dad's XY GT (Electric blue, 5 slots) so if you see it, say hi

I'd be happy to, but no idea what your face looks like! Well I'll just wander around aimlessly and if I see any cars off here, ask anyone within 10 feet who the owner is

I'm going to JAFs on Saturday but havent met anyone off here before so no idea who to introduce myself too. Any sort of pre-meet planned at all by others going?

Audio install is done (for now)! Installing the splits was the biggest pain, and took me over 3 nights (about 2 hours per night) but this was taking my time. I re-used the factory loom to install the crossover in the kick panel, then new wiring to the tweeter. Re-used the factory loom from the crossover/kick panel to the door speaker and disconnected the factory tweeter wiring. Rear speakers were piece of piss!! 15 mins to remove the parcel shelf cover, 15 min to install the two speakers (soldering in wiring) and then 10 mins to put it all back together - much better! Results? The sound from the splits has MUCH better clarity (SQ??) than the stock 2 ways in the doors and tweeters in the A-pillar! Couldnt be happier really. The 5x7s in the rear give great balance, and now the only thing letting the whole show down is the sub. Still the factory 8" paper cone in the parcel shelf, I'm thinking of replacing this with either a Polk DB840SVC or a Kicker CVT8 (polk is slightly cheaper) as both these subs have been proven to work well with the factory amp.

It acknowledges we exist by displaying us, but aparently you can't search how to find us :\ Can anyone with Sat Nav please let me know what your region screen looks like?

Fitted the Crossovers & drivers for my front splits (Pioneer TS-1702C) - tweeter install will be tonight. Thursday night will be the JL Audio C2570X in the rears. Sub will have to wait till I have more funds :\ Recently had wheel alignment/camber shims done as LF had 1.6* camber, RF was 0.53* - now 0.5º both sides. At same time had the rear pedders sport ryder springs installed to level it out - pics when the car isn't filthy!!

I have an issue with the BA Sat Nav which I can't find an answer too. My car came with the original V2 disc (from 2002!) and when I change my search area on my original V2 disc, I see these options: Now I wanted to update the disc, and have tried V16, V17 and V18 discs, and all works with regards to tracking my location etc, but if I try to change the search location it looks like this: I cannot select SA for some reason! It is stuck on NSW which is useless seeing as I live in SA. So I would like to know from others with the BA/BF factory nav, has anyone else encountered this? What does your search area select look like? Thanks Lee

Excited to hear further results on economy and times. And of cost for this unit installed by Bruce

My 42yo cousin is in this exact boat. worked mines his whole life, never been near a computer in his life, and had a BA XR8. Just spent $13k with KPM for intake, exhaust, tune and Harrop brakes. He thinks its the ducks nuts, I just shudder every time I think what I could've done with $13k!! but the money to him was reasonable and he'll continually go back

Sell it - buy a weekend toy that won't depreciate like the G6E would. That way drive the Mondeo for most duties, and have an old X series for fun weekend stuff.

Well not sure how much of a "build" thread this is, or will end up but thought I would share. In April this year ('12) I bought myself the following: BA XR6 Turbo 1 owner 71,000ks Full service history Factory Leather Factory Premium Sound Factory Sat Nav (Very rare!) Overall the car is immaculate condition and a real credit to the owner - who as it turns out lived in Roxby downs (mining town outback SA) and would use the car for an annual trip to the Snow Mountains to see family, and the occasional trip to Adelaide to see friends - so majority of the kms are also country kms So without further adue, starting pics: Since then, I have done the following: External transmission cooler (bypass radiator) Transmission service / new fliuid Replaced diff oil & brake fluid New spark plugs Cleaned throttle body / boost control solenoid Fitted new FMIC (Monza) Heinrich Tune, resulting in the following: With the power at a much happier level, I then went about altering the asthetics. New wheels! Then the temp started rising as summer approached, so needed to keep the wife and kids cool (well that's the excuse I used!) 18% tint all round: Next up, I have a set of Pedder sports ryder springs sitting in the shed. Just need to get some $$ for shocks, and will bring it 10mm(f) and 20mm® closer to earth. But before we get there, I just recieved a set of RDA Slotted front Rotors & Remsa pads which will be fitted in the next fortnight. Finally, I'll be replacing the factory sub with either a Polk DB840 or Kicker CVT8, and then getting an iPod aux adaptor from ASL to finish off the sound. Overall, I'm rather happy with the car. In some aspects, which I had the extra $$ for a BF (with ZF 6sp) But then with the leather, low kms, sat nav, I'm very happy with the package Welcome any comments

Found my own answer in the Workshop Manual: Power window operates sluggishly 9. Check the regulator and window runs for binding. Adjust the runs, repair and lubricate the regulator. Lubricate the runs with silicone lubricant. 10. Check for frayed insulation where the window wires may partially ground. Check for loose connections which will cause high resistance. 11. Check motor current draw during operation (place an ammeter in series with the ground lead of the battery). Motor current draw should not exceed 12 amps during normal operation and should exceed 20 amps at stall. If the current is above 12 amps during operations of the window, readjust the glass mechanism. If the stall current is below 20 amperes at stall, look for poor electrical connections. 12. Motor current draw when disconnected from the regulator plate should not exceed 5 amps.