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I thought all cars did.

It cant be a 5 speed manual, the 6 speed came out in the BA2, 2004.

Mate look at my sig. I have had that for about 7 years/150,000km without any dramas. Although I do drive it with respect and have changed the gearbox fluid to Transmax Z every 50,000km.

Yeah that's the other thing 4x4s are used for towing boats, its so they can get up slippery/sandy boat ramps. I used to have a few traction problems trying to pull my jet ski out of the water. that's when the front wheels are needed to grip.

This topic has been coming up for years. You may be one of the lucky ones like me (touch wood) with a modified car and trouble free. Mind you I have had it since new, replaced oil to Tranzmax z every 50K and respect it when I drive it. It is a gamble although I think you would be fine but for peace of mind go the 6 speed.

Hey guys have we got a solution for this yet. I have the same problem where ABS will kick in for 2 seconds at very low speeds. Was the wheel sensor the solution.

Yeah they are put in a furnace until they glow red and then bent over more to whatever ride height you want to the mm.

Are you guys talking about the heat shield around the exhaust rattling. If so you can remove them without any side effects at all. I removed mine after a year of stuffing around trying to fix it. 5 years later and no dramas.

These cars need throttle body cleaning every 6-12 months to keep the idle smooth. A few reputable tuners dont replace that last allan key screw once its out just to save time for next time.

Id say its to do with your bigger sway bars. I had a similar issue once with after market sway bars.

Thanks Hiddeous. Which wheel cylinder are you talking about. Wont air get in all the lines to the wheels if the unions are loosened on the m/c.

Oops, yeah sorry 20-30mm. Although when I press the pedal 3 times quickly on the 4th press the friction point hits straight away. Im guessing that the callipers havnt retracted all the way and are closer to the pads, am I right? How do you bleed the master cylinder?

I have just installed new pads. They are RaceBrakes RB24. Im just wondering how to remove the slack from the brake pedal. When I put my foot on the pedal it takes about 20cm - 30cm (guess) before the brakes start working. All the brake lines have been bled with new fluid. This was also the same for the standard pads although probably not as bad but that's probably due to still running in new pads. All I want is the pads to bite straight away.

Is he talking about turbo manifold bolts or internal turbo bolts.

Nulon 10W 40 is quieter than the 0W 40 edge and cheaper.

How much did the pump cost you. I have the same problem. Where abouts from the pump is it leaking, cant this be fixed. Thanks.

Oops. Mine is a BA, not sure the difference to a FG.

I have SSL on the front of mine and once settled it lowers about 40mm. I have lowered the back 50mm and it still sits a bit higher than the front. Although it looks great if I had my time again I would go 45-50mm at the back but only SL at the front. SSL is just that bit too low for driveways, kerbs and speed humps because the utes have such a looong wheel base. If you do go SSL at the front, dont forget a camber kit other wise you will wear out the inside of your tyres very quickly because of too much negative camber.

My car is moddified and I never had any dramas with all kinds of warranty work.

I have done this mod at 3 different times now and did not feel any difference on all 3 attempts. The throttle body clean fixed my rough idle though.

$400 at Big-O in Moorebank. Kings ssl at the front reset the rears. This was years ago though.

I am pretty sure that the passenger side rear spring is about 10mm higher than the drivers side to compensate for the fuel tank. This is for a stocker. I found this out the hard way after lowering my ute 50mm. Jman my car at th front looks like yours, although my springs are KFFL-57SSL are you sure you are not talking about these.

No its pretty dry there.

Thanks guys for helping. I have checked the cap and there is no leak from there. I am pretty sure its not power steering fluid as it has been the same level since I bought the car 5 years ago.