bjc

It's the front diff breather. Wait until it starts spewing oil out on a long trip! Have fun refitting it also as it's virtually impossible to reach with hands... It just sits in the middle of the intake manifold, no fixtures just free floating.

PRP = 1 million dollarydoos...

Let me add by saying that my above reply is not pointed at anyone in this thread. If you think you fit my above criteria then it's only my opinion of you ...

@FGeorge The stock 3576 runs out of puff up higher in the rpm (compressor wheel to small) which is why you'll generally see 300x kw @12-14psi "or so" figures posted but the midrange will have 18psi "or so" tapering off. We are always learning until the day we die mate so the more questions asked, the more can be learnt and hopefully passed on without being a fkhead about it. You also have to understand that some like to keep their knowledge regardless, like it's some sort of secret squirrel and think they are high and mighty over others which is hilarious imo and in saying that, those people shouldn't be on forums as they are happy to take others knowledge, not pass it on and hoard their own... There's tonnes of knowledge on this forum and others so get searching. Don't bother asking on Facebook... You might be OK with the barra conversions group but it's also getting full of retards now unfortunately. Everyone's a hero behind a keyboard! That's my 2 cents at least. There's no sh*t stir emoji in Tapatalk...

Yes but as I said, everyone gets the same feeling regardless of what it is. New car, new house, new state, job etc etc... Yes, 18psi

Devil's advocate here... If the car has the stock 3576 then don't bother, it'll hit 18psi in the mid and die off up top without being forced to try and hold more boosts for a timely death depending. If it's a 3582 (gt3540) and you want to wind it to "Max Headroom" then you'll need the mod to make use of it or pull timing and be down on power but still have a decent amount of boost going to waste. It's like saying you need headstuds, I understand the tuner pov and path but it's not required until you step way WAY past your power point but not all tuners tune the same, some like boost while others prefer timing. I live in a tropical climate so what I see done down south on 98oct I'd laugh at with that same car up here... 300-330kw on the stock 3576 on 98oct with all supporting mods imo will be fine, otherwise step up in turbo size (gtx3576 for a great street turbo and still good top end power) and get the iwg ported (if going just the supercore) or go external gate as tuners prefer it due to easier boost control. You'll want more power regardless in the end mate (this is the way) but it depends on what your end goals are. The stock 3576 with a decent set of tyres on the back is a brilliant combo for street, highway overtaking and towing. I understand your questions and need for wanting reassurance as it's hard earned money (otherwise you wouldn't be asking) and it's similar to Impulse buying where you can feel guilty. If the tuner was a stroker and didn't want to explain properly to a potential customer then that's my queue to bounce. People come in all sorts though, it doesn't mean they aren't great at what they do! For future reference, you should give as much information as possible when starting a thread (turbo size for instance and fuel type) as replies keep stabbing in the dark until you hand it out. Everyone likes to learn as we all start somewhere. I'm not a tuner btw so take my reply with a grain of salt yada yada... I just rambled like a champion there!

Seems Tapatalk doesn't give notices until a fortnight later... My 2 cents was that you should have kept it and donor swapped the goodies to the new coon if you buy one. To late to late now though!

You'd hear a loose flex plate. Diff bushes don't induce a vibration when stopped and in gear. I can't see any leakage from my engine mounts but it could be a bolt left loose somewhere as I've had the front end mostly apart and also completely out once since I've owned it... Does yours still vribrate after the engine and transmission has completely warmed up?

That's the shift I usually don't do unless street light racing as it's the shift that I can get the huge continuous misfire until I get off the throttle... There's a heap of tuned mustangs around now but haven't managed to pull up next to one at the lights yet as they are to busy boy racing through traffic instead!

Is that a slight twist in the shaft with the Barcode and number or was it stamped off center? I feel at ease raping mine with its puny power... I do have a spare but I think it'll be all rusted by now!

Mine does the same when stopped and in gear. The drivers mirror is the shaking king and it has loosened the front cover on the housing it's that awesome... I'm still thinking it's my engine mount or trans mount maybe. To lazy to rectify it still and there's no banging going on so I'm not to worried. It is idling lower than I remember so that may be it, or not!

Battery is rooted or battery terminal loose. Dead speedo is a common issue with a failing battery. Tacho can also drop out and various other things like rear window hatch button won't work... Supercheap will test it for free with their doohickey.

07-0033 is all I could find on the Gates kit. 7 replacement hoses. Not sure if that includes the engine and transmission cooler/heat exchanger lines though...

I called it! Purely because it was not only miles past its limit but it had also been doing it for so long... Will be interesting to see what the shaft looks like. A quarter twisted before breaking? Place your bets!!!

I'd simply drop the clamp from the dump pipe to the cat like was the original idea and see whether or not it's a restriction. I'm saying that the cat is unless it's gigantic. You're at the point where endless amounts of dollarydoos come into play (not that you haven't already sunk a decent budgets worth). Exhaust back pressure sensors, EGT sensors in every exhaust port or better yet to burn even more cashola an O2 sensor in every port plus one in the dump pipe because money... Almost forgot the compressor speed sensor to see if you're ringing its neck enough! I recommend beerydoos while online parts shopping so you don't get the impulse buying blues.

Winding in the duty cycle I suspect it will end up with a lunched ZF but I'm knocking on wood for you atm... Cat removal is definitely the go. It's the reason why Nizpro use two of them in their 4" system, that's the way I see it anyway! It made the note deeper or at least that's what it did with my 3.5" xforce system. Do you have issues with roadside RTA's or police down your way?

I'll be the devil on the other shoulder... The fluid level doesn't matter squat as long as it's over the correct level. I've done this and replied on this forum about it and I'm using Transmax Z plus a bottle or so of Lubegard. 3lt+ overfill and the only thing it did was make it doughy central... I would think like most autos if it's underfilled it would jump into gear when a certain rpm is reached from a stop (my btr on the AU did this after Ford clowns didn't fill it properly). Long story short is they aren't as temperamental as everyone is saying.

Yeah you might as well go the 6R80 especially since you are changing the convertor anyway. FYI I got pricing a while back from Dave Sheehy (CPV, blueboost here back in the day) and his prices were stage 3 - billet shaft box 600kw $4950 or stage 4 6r80 shaft 650kws $5950. $1k less or so for each of the lower stages (cryo shaft, standard shaft with extra clutches). Those are Nth Qld prices but I heard $4k for a full 6R80 build from an Andrew Grimes (met him through Facebook) in Melbourne or Adelaide? Those prices are half of what I've seen from some shops so It would be interesting to see your DIY cost once you are done, but either way I believe you are the budget king with the biggest results I've personally read about. I don't class full time tuners or tuning shop workers as diyers for obvious reasons but still respect their builds...

I'm surprised it's still alive (the ZF). By all accounts with the Facebook heroes it should have died at stock power, milkshaked and broke the input shaft... Lol. Don't you just love strokers! In all honesty though I know you have mechanical sympathy and aren't a bafoon like Faceboobs morons but even I expected it to go poopy by now on any number of random drives, especially with the weight of old Terry. I don't feel so bad when I beat on mine when I drive it once every month! It's an impressive feat that's for sure

That's an excuse to do another quick YouTube video of it roasting the tyres when launching now... Pick up some milk and bread for the kids!

I deciphered what you were saying. I have a mate who only messages via voice to text, it gets rad sometimes!

So the fuel restriction is/was in the swirlpot be it the barb on the top, the check ball (where ever that is as I only have a picture of it) or the black fitting on the bottom? Are the knock ears the Tuner Nerds or did you buy a more expensive device? Quoting a mate from being on E85 and then had to switch back to 98oct, Hopes and Dreams... Lol Sounds awesome btw especially flinging past the 6k stock limit is just plain cool!

Yes you told me about the mat for the tank and tbh that's probably the best method without going external surge tanks. Did you drill out the return quick fit on the top of the intank module (4mm I believe?) and also remove that check valve bead/BB that's in the swirl pot? Apart from undersized return line (if that's the issue) they are the only other things I can think of...

Hope it's an easy diagnosis then. If you do the return then you know it's done but I'm hearing you about the fuel tank. I still haven't dropped mine for the first time and I'm dreading it... Still unsure of what I want my end goal to be which will likely end up bigger than planned as always! I don't have the cash for a built engine or the man power to do it these days anyway, that's why your build and others is good for me. Almost like I'm along for the ride plus I gain some knowledge to...

Fuel filter full of crud, reg on the fritz or the return has a blockage? Wouldn't be a tig weld ball slag on the inside of the oem fuel rail has come off and ruined your day? Did you say you have the pumps staged via a hobbs switch or both going flat stick permanently? I'm obviously spit balling here...