6BOOST

Why is everyone going so big in the exhaust?? I'm not sure if the fpv's have a better exhaust, but my tornado with process west stage 1 cooler and ubp, 60lb injectors, hiflow cat and tune makes 314rwkw and backed it up with a [email protected] first pass. I have no doubt it would happily make 350rwkw with the centre mufflers removed and an actuator to hold more than 10psi past 3000rpm. Bigger isn't always better, a combination of matched parts can yield good results for little money Cheers...............6BOOST

I've never purchased a new car in my life, and last Jan took the big step at 28 of buying my first car as a brank new FPV Tornado ute from Southern Cross Ford in Toowoomba. Now I know they don't give a sh1t who I am and how old I am, but for me, its a big deal. My ute took 2 weeks too long to arrive from sydney, despite being in stock. When it arrived, they finished the pre delivery and called me to picked it up, and as excited as hell, I rushed over there only to find it had the wrong wheels, not dark argents as requested, promised and paid for. After waiting for them for another 10 days to swap wheels, they managed to reverse the car into a door and damage the side skirt, then tell me they were really sorry but couldn't fix it for 3 months. I was promised that the car would be detailed inside and out when they did it in thanks for stuffing me around. When itcame time to fix it, they did a shoddy job, doing a dodgy blend rather than just removing the smallest panel on the whole car and painting it properly. Furthermore, they didn't detail it, it was dirtier than when it arrived. The next time I dropped it off for a bad dash sqeek, that hasn't been found in 3 subsequent returns, one of my mates msged me to ask if I was having a bad day while seeing me sideways up a back street near his house, only I didn't have the car lol. A phone call later I was promised a full tanl of fuel and an apology for it, and never recieved either. The icing on the cake, was when completely stock, no tune, nothing, I footbrake stalled the auto up at a set of lights to race a commodore, when the tailshaft simply screwed clean in half. Ford wouldn't warrant it, as apparently the only way I could have broken it was doing burn outs on the grass and driven onto grippy bitumen and it snapped. They wouldn't have a bar of me calling the tow truck driver who picked it up for his story on where it was picked up, nor the fact there was no grass or dirt under the car, I must have cleaned that out apparently. Forget the 3 people I know who have had the tailshafts and diff centres replaced in their BF's under warranty due to being bent or noisy and a common problem. So from me, thansk to southern cross ford Toowoomba, you have ensured I will never purchase a new ford ever again, I have stopped my brother inlaw from purchasing his 7 work utes a year/bi yearly for his business from ford and now purchases from Toyota who have been nothing but fantastic, and as far as I'm concerned, I hope your sh1thouse service some day becomes the end of your company regardless of the fact I'm a ford man thru and thru and owned my first XB falcon coupe at 13. Karma's a bitch, eat sh1t. 6BOOST

Stock BF Tornado ute, full weight with stock tune and K&N panel filter, no other mods [email protected] 6BOOST

We have already finished the Fg you speak of about 6-8 weeks ago, with C4, GT45 and associated mods. Car will be getting 4 link and 9" shortly, and yes, its still a street car;) Thanks for the kind words Spiro! See you next week to finish off the shift light and eboost wiring. Bad luck on breaking the diff, you'll find it was axle tramp more than hp, that sh*t will kill read end components faster than anything else. I'd skip the street radials and go straight to slicks and front runners, will have info for you monday. Ciao, Kyle.

The car has billet driveshafts and is getting a moly tailshaft and better diff centre built for it, so the driveline will be up to the task. You'd be surprised how NON laggy a turbo this big is on a 4 litre, lag between gears shouldn't be a problem, balancing launching with boost vs traction will be interesting, my prediction is slow 60ft and ET on streets with big mile:) As far as boost control goes, we have fitted an Eboost2 to the car for Spiro, and when we get a little more time will set up gear depended boost control and his shift light:) 6BOOST

Congrats on the power figure Spiro!! It was a priveledge to build the car and I'm glad we got the fab work done in time for your trip to sydney, bugger on not getting the initial tune sorted as we would have liked. No one can argue with C&V's experience and tuning ability though, and 480rwkw on 98 and 616rwkw says it all. For anyone who thinks that some of Spiro's words may come off as overly enthusiastic, I can assure you that in the 10 years I have been in the industry, I have never met a more capable, and determined individual Regards.............6BOOST

Hey all Thanks for all the kind words, though most of them must go to Roland for having the dedication (and money lol) to do the job properly. Generally speaking we don't work on cars, we simply build manifolds and turbo kits and freight them out, but the one provision when we do build a car is you do the job properly, whatever it costs, or we don't touch it. Roland has been nothing but supportive and enthusiastic about everything done to the car, and its great to have had the opportunity to work on such an animal. To answer some questions. There is various sources to purchase E85, even though its available at few places at the pump. Race Fuels sells it by the drum, as do a few other companies, usually around $2.00 to $2.50 a litre. Now while some may scream at the price when its $1.00 a litre at the pump, its sealed fresh on the drum as soon as its mixed, as opposed to being stored in the ground for up to 3 months, and its mixed with 98 ron rather than 91. The reason for E85 on this car isn't the needed octane or power, its the safety margin. The car would easily make the same power on straight 98, but I have learned the hard way from pushing engines on low octane fuel, its just so easy running semi close to the edge for something to go wrong. E85 being so cheap, is just my way of making sure Rolands car always gets off the dyno, to the end of the track, and home again, without a broken ring land or hole in the piston Apparently there is supposed to 200 pumps around australia by october next year with E85, fingers crossed for all!! As for future plans for the car, I guess Roland and I will have to have a chat. People have to remember that its against ANDRA regs to run 10's without safety requirements, such as cage, tailshaft loop, battery isolator etc. We could do probably most or all of them to be unobtrusive, by making the cage removable and fit in area's that won't be seen, but at the end of the day, the car IS an R spec, and it'd be a shame to wreck it in the search for numbers. I think in its current guise it has a 1.52-1.54 60ft in it, I launched soft at 2800rpm not wanting to break it, I'd say just that little bit more at 3000rpm would be perfect. Dyno graph attached, as far as boost control goes, the reason it drops so much is that we were playing with the Eboost, and it was only raising the start of the graph, it only drops 1psi with its current setup, we just finished it on the road rather than thrashing it on the dyno. The car has seen as much as 492rwkw, however I'd prefer not to break the thing!! Thanks Jamie for the hard work on the dyno and for getting the 80lb'ers running so sweet. Hopefully you grow out of being such a pussy next time, that big wooden box in the corner is an atomic motor remember Dyno graph, with vid and car shots over the weekend. 6BOOST

Hey all, Last night we took out Rolands white F6 R spec (YUTRYN) to willowbank for its maiden pass down a drag strip. The car was driven to the track from Toowoomba, and with a quick wheel change to MT radials, raced with full interior, half a tank of fuel, jack, spanners, laptop and logger in the car and my not inconsiderable weight of 110kg bringing it to a total of 1920kg weighed this morning on the local weighbridge. It smashed out a 10.57@135mph on its first pass ever with me at the wheel 60ft was 1.60 and half track mph 106. I think only one F6 has gone quicker but was stripped out on race fuel, slicks and front runners. All work since stock have been carried out at 6boost, and the pass was done on 19psi, E85 with very tame tune, stock unopened motor, stock ZF 6 speed, stock axles, suspension etc. Only mods are bolt on, with a 6boost 4094 turbo kit, Process West race kit(thanks Kev), PW airbox and surge tank, custom modified by us with 2x 044 pumps, 80lb injectors and billet twin feed rail, 4" exhaust and chomoly tailshaft (for security). Power is 456rwkw on 19psi, rather high for a stock motor, but the Atomic motor sitting in a crate in the corner is sweet insurance for when it goes pop We'll be back in a few weeks to try and better the current 10.47 by the stripped out F6, fingers crossed we should get there, I left pretty soft on the launch and really didn't expect the result!!! Dyno graph and time card with pics tomorrow night 6BOOST PS, anyone get vid of the run??

Smoke them tyres, are your questions, concerns and theries based on experience, or research and scientific numbers?? As leigh and myself collectively have probably manufactered 5000 manifolds in the past 5 years, and I for one have had 2 failures, both on circuit cars, with no turbo bracing, both heat wrapped and both missing an engine to dump pipe support for weight, so the ful exhaust weight was hanging off the turbo. In both cases, we removed the heat wrap, ceramic coated the manifold, added a turbo and exhaust brace, and both setups have been in use repaired for several more years. Steam pipe is convenient, cheap, easy to work with, easy to repair, durable, and comes in the 2 perfect sizes for just about every 6 cylinder application on the planet. I don't see why you need to reinvent the wheel, the best manifold material is here, and its already being used:) Cheers...........................6BOOST

BF F6 ute, full weight less spare tire (1907kg weighed), mods are K&N panel filter, process west stage one cooler, injectors, fuel pump and tune, stock 6 speed auto, stock diff, engine, exhaust, piping etc. First pass [email protected] with 314rwkw. Customers BF F6 sedan with process west full race kit and GT4094 on my manifold 12.1@122mph with 2.4 60ft and 320rwkw on 12psi. 6BOOST

Haha, I love it:P I am a pretty careful and respectful driver on the road, I move into the left lane when cars come up behind me, I let others merge where others are just being ignorant f ucks, I travel at about 5% above the speed limit, and generally don't care if someone is on the phone or doing something they shouldn't, as long as they aren't endangering me, no use hassling every doodle on the road and sounding like half the morons people have mentioned in this thread. EDIT (by Turbo6man) - not much benefit in the rest of the post so it has been deleted. The positive aspects have been retained. 6BOOST

While earily similar and based off the same design, they are different, BA onwarsd engine has oval inlet ports with centre injector, older engine has round ports with slightly offset injector. You can run a top half style plenum and they are interchangable, as can be seen by the miriad of earlier falcons running a nizpro intake, but can't use the lower runners from an earlier model. Regards........................6BOOST

Well, I'll start my own thread in the next few days with pics but I empathise with you mate, but will amaze you/everyone that last thursday I did the exact same thing in my tornado...... And its completely stock!!! Ok ok, its got a K&N panel filter..... I have never done anything overly stupid, other than 10-15 passes at the track with minimal burnouts in the water only, nothing on the street, no circle work, nada, and stalled it up hard on the footbrake the other night playing with launch tehniques, BANG, no drive. Farkin spewin, if I hade 400rwkw, I'd expect it, but stock?? Naturally ford don't wanna know about it, tried to charge me $1900 for a replacement, last $$ I ever spend with the ford motor company in this lifetime. 6BOOST

I empathise with you all, and could literally wring the bloody neck of my dealer. If your on the darling downs, don't bother taking your car to any ford dealer in Toowoomba(there is only 1), they are a useless bunch of twats that couldn't give a toss about you or your car. I have the exact same dash squeek, but I can actually tell you all where its coming from!! Yay!! Not that ford could give a fu ck, they wer dumb enough to tell me that they had a car in 3 days prior to mine(for the second time mind you) and replaced the EXACT piece that I know is sqeeking, as it to was sqeeking, but oh no sir, we can't replace your until we actually hear it for ourselves!!! So, to answer all your questions, the sqeek from the passenger side dash area up near the windscreen is the little vent, think its the one for the aircon to the windscreen, that one is what is causing it, mine only does it after about 30min on the road, which is why ford can't hear it, but I do EVERY weekend as I drive 130 k's to brissy, then the same on the way home. I have had someone in the car and we played with it, and the smallest bit of pressure on it stops the sqeek. If you all want to check with yourself, fold up some paper and jam in between it and the dash, its just a clip in plastic bit, and see if it stops the rattle. Hardly something we should have to fix on 40-60+k cars ourself, but if my ford dealer is anything to go buy, I may as well fix everything myself that ever goes wrong, as they have no interest in it. Don't even get me started on the tailshaft that broke last thursday on my completely stock F6 which "isn't" covered under warranty, apparently I MUST have been doing something stupid. I wasn't. Ford can get f ucked, last new car I ever purchase from them, if the XR6 Turbo and F6 weren't such good cars, it would be the last ford I ever owned, period...... End Rant:o)~ 6BOOST

On 2 notes, I know paul from HPI/Zoom, and have just finished a manifold for his new turbo setup for the SR, which is a far change from the T88, a baby GT3037S HKS turbo:) He's about to start doing circuit sprints with the car, so should be interesting!! On the low rpm boost side of things, there is nothing stopping people getting an Eboost 2, and its a set and forget item, hide it if your really don't want a bog boost gauge stickin out. If everyone can afford 440rwkw in a BA onwards vehicle, you can afford $600-$700 for an eboost 2. While I appreciate that mor elag would help the wheelspin problem, I personally would prefer the most responsive setup possible and as much power as the tyres can handle in every gear, a TO4Z equipped car would walk a few car lengths on a bigger turbo'd car on the street, and chances are, the bigger turbo wouldn't be packing more than the TO4Z when you get you 3rd and 440rwkw, so its not likt it would pull it in either. Who know's, I'll let you all know in the next few months when I get my atomic engine in and fit it all up how t works in practice rather than theory:o) 6BOOST

Ultimate street turbo setup and the one that will be going on my own F6..... Would have be TO4Z with 1.00 split rear housing, and twin 44mm gates to keep gasses divided completely(worth about 150rpm over single gate). Customers F6 with rods, pistons, billet oil pump gears and valve springs but no port work or cams, plasmaman intake manifolds/800hp cooler and one of my manifolds with single turbosmart 50mm gate, full boost 2700rpm and 440rwkw on 98 fuel thru ZF 6 speed auto. Car is a weapon, altho the owner isn't into drag racing so will never see the qtr, however can get any boost pressure desired off the footbrake. He commented that its as responsive as his old GT35 setup with stock manifold and same exhaust/setup only with an additional 90rwkw. He commented that transient boost response is actually better, altho straight off the mark feels the same. I personally will be running stock dunlop 19's and an Eboost 2 with gear dependent boost control, and will prob have 3 boost settings for gears 1-3 and 4 thru 6 will be whatever 450rwkw is. This would give the response of any other setup, and the power potential of a far larger and less drivable setup, and finely tweaked to avaliable traction so too much is always just the right amount;) 6BOOST

Don't you mean "swantko" I think that'd go real nice, would be intersting to see some dyno figures and times from one of those on a atomic 900kw engine(so it won't fall apart) and some good fuel..... 6BOOST

I know they say it is, and hey, I'm not saying its not, but it has the same litle braces above each port identicle to the imported ones, and the bends look longer than steam pipe bends, and also, why would you buff off and smooth every weld?? Ever seen a full race manifold?? Pure automotive porn. As for shed 10 stainless, there is 2 reasons I don't use it. Firstly, cost, as production would add $300 a manifold, making 6 cylinder manifolds $1500, and out of reach of most people IMO. Secondly, harder to work with, time wise they would take at least 10-20% extra time to make due to it being a harder material, harder to cut, harder to die grind, if you put little effort into hand finishing a manifold when its done as I've noticed some manufacturers do, then there may be only a small amout of extra work.... Regardless of time or money involved, I still stand by physics and material properties, being that stainless expands and contracts 280% more than mild steel, and if I'm going to offer an unlimited klm lifetime warranty, I need to know that in 2, 4 or 6 years, I'm not going to get a constant stream of manifolds coming back that are finally cracked. I've put some of my manifolds thru some brutal punishment testing, and I am yet to have a single one crack, the head face bends from the stupid heat(read 1000deg exhaust temps) before anything else. I may look at doing something with them some day for pure show cars or rarely driven show/drag cars, but at this point in time, not. One last thing, not sure where I saw it, but seen a picture of a full race manifold on a honda that was well used, and to be honest it looked like puss, just the surface finish after the heat had been thru it after a while, not the design or quality. If my staino manifold ended up like that I'd pull it off and sandblast it and paint it black....... In which case you maye as well use mild steal:) 6BOOST

Well, torque in a 4 litre is a function of 3 things, boost, total hp, and rpm. To explain, the higher in the rpm range you make peak torque, the less torque you will make. Now in saying that, the more power you make, the more torque you make, so there is a balance. Best example would be, that if we take 2x XR6's, both with 450rwkw, one has a laggy setup and makes full boost at 3500rpm, the other has a responsive setup and makes full boost at 2500rpm. The one that makes full boost at 2500rpm will make far more torque than the one that makes full boost at 3500rpm, as the fords natural torque peak is very low, and it generally makes peak torque at or just after 2300-2500 rpm. If you run twins, and they make full boost any later than what a single would, and make the same power, then it will be LESS torquey, and be slower. The most responsive setup you can run for any given HP target is the one you want on your engine. In the case of smaller engines, this can be a little different, as a small engine may require a LOT of boost to make big power, and some small turbo's aren't designed to be efficient at 30+psi, and this is where knowing what your doing is of great benifit, something many years of experience and 1000's of manifolds has helped me with. I personally don't think pair of smaller twins will be better than a single, I think at best, it will be AS GOOD as a single, and you'll be swearing about how much of a bitch the setup is because of limited room with all the components Leigh listed, there's a lot of sh it in there with twins. To give you some insight though, seeing as how we are talking about spiltting the engine in 2 to factor in turbo's.... A T28 disco potato doesn't make full boost on a sr20 until 3600rpm, and I'm yet to see one make more than 230-235rwkw. A GT3071 makes full boost on a 4 into 1 merge collector manifold at the same rpm as a 3076, and with the small .63 rear, these are hitting full boost around 3900-4000rpm, and we have seen 296rwkw on 109 octane fuel. To bring that back to a 4 litre, twin disco potato's would make full boost around 3600-3700rpm, and max out around 20psi and 460-480rwkw. In comparison, a TO4Z will make full boost on split pulse merge style manifold at 2700rpm and 440rwkw thru an auto on pump fuel and 20psi or less, hopefully one of my customers send me a dyno graph this week of that setup. A GT42 or T51R setup would make full boost at 3600rpm like the twin disco potato's and have the potential to make mid to high 500rwkw's, one of my RB customers has gone 613rwkw on a single GT42. Again, if the goal is to be different, I completle agree, my arguments are not in any way based on looks or individuality, or a judgement of you or those that would like to go twins, I am just putting forward the performance +++'s and - - -'s from experience so that those reading can take it in and maybe help make a decision on what they would like to do that best suits their needs:) Cheers...........................6BOOST

Perhaps you should go to page 1 and read my previous post. I have done EXTENSIVE testing of twin vs single turbo setups on RB26's, and for instance, a single GT35 kit on a STOCK RB26 with cam gears, exhaust and fuel system, made full boost at 4000rpm, and 378rwkw on 19psi of boost. The same car, previous to my GT35, had the same setup with a set of twin 2530's. On 21psi, it made 338rwkw and full boost at 4500-4600rpm. that's a gain of 40rwkw and 600rpm of spool. Against twin 2540's, they made full boost at 5000rpm, and 376rwkw on 21psi, same car with GT35 kit made full boost at 4k and 397rwkw on 21psi. Trust T518Z twins on R34 GTR, full boost at 4700rpm, 300rwkw on 18psi, switch to GT35 kit and made 313rwkw on 16 psi, full boost at 3800rpm. I could go on all day, but these are some of the fastest spooling turbo's avaliable in twins for the GTR, even the STOCK twins make full boost around 4200rpm, the single eats it all day everyday for power and response. For a last example, a built engine that could handle some boost we fitted a TO4Z to, full boost 4600rpm, 680rwhp on 28 psi...... Still think twins are the way to go?? As I previously said, feel free to be different, but the age where twins made boost earlier than a single are long gone, use a well designed merge style exhaust manifold with a correctly matched single, and I promise you it will win hands down in power and spool everytime. Maybe I'll test it sometime this year on a 4 litre just to prove it:-) Cheers............................6BOOST

Hahahahaha, read the info on them, stainless steam pipe my ass..... And look, they have the pretty little stainless tags above each port like every other cheap chinese manifold.... They say you get what you pay for, nothing could be more true than the turbo side of your engine, pay peanuts and you get monkeys, the simple fact is it costs money and takes time to build a decent manifold. I don't know why the head plate is one piece, it would be bent like a banana very quickly with 2 separate turbo's, and the power output from a pair of twins would be similar to a similar sized single and spool slower. I have done a LOT of back to back testing on RB26's with twins vs singles, and in every single application, a single has outspooled a set of twins by at least 500rpm and made MORE power doing it. The days when twins were more responsive are long gone, that was back when single turbo's used technology from the 70's, but feel free to try something different:) 6BOOST

Further racing, still dead stock, my car has so far run a 2.00 60ft and a [email protected]. I thought ths was about the limit, as a 2.0 60ft is pretty good with the torque limiting off the line. But then last week (back at it again lol) I went 2.10 60ft and a [email protected]. So the car has run almost 109mph, and I went and weighed the car the day after racing. With the spare in and zero(I mean ZERO fuel, I actually ran out that afternoon!) my car weighed 1905kg with me in it, I weight 110kg, so the ute was 1795kg factory standard with no fuel. With a full tank of fuel (which I think is how they rate the weights?) the car is smack on 1865kg which is exactly what ford qoute the tornado ute as. I race with about 30 litres in the tank, so I'd say race weight is around 1930kg with driver, and the old morosso calculator tells me in dead stock form, my car is making 320kw at the flywheel on that 108.6mph pass. This is the only pass at that mile, most are between 106.2 and 107.5, which puts power around 285-300kw at the fly standard. I will be back with a vengence next week, I think my car is already the fastest stock T or F6 ute in australia period, but I want to crack that 12.99 just to say its been done and yet another car off the showroom foor running a 12:o) 6BOOST

I can relate to the same noise, and have fkn idea what it is. I have had the spare both and and out, and the cable was/is def tight and nothing is moving there. Same as yours also, it only knocks on bumps, acceleration doesn't change it or have anything to do with it. Taken it back to ford twice, along with my dash rattle and something around the passenger rear speaker... All items still do it. And I'm not taking it back there again, caught them thrashing the fark out of it last time, they used 100k's of juice in 10k's! I reset the fuel consumption meter and it was on like 47L/100, and told them one of my mates had seen them thrashing it, the manager rang back to say the foreman was the one driving it and yes he admitted to and had no reason why.... Fcukers, wont see another cent of my money ever again, including on a new FG F6. 6BOOST

The new car does NOT have a smaller turbo, I have spoken with Rob at garrett australia about the turbo when we were talking about another subject, he went into detail, but I don't want to repeat it, so I will tell you all that responsiveness will be up, and power potential will not be affected. It still carries the same rear, just different comp wheel. 6BOOST

Its a mission to get it right, loading it up in second and dropping back to first just before launch, one pass it goes good, the next not, its such a balancing act, I will post up times after next week when I have a good chop at running a 12, I know it can do it, but whether I can put it all in one pass is another story.... Suffice to say its run 5x 13.3's with 60ft's anywhere from 2.07 to 2.14 and has so far run a best of 107.0mph, my best time to date is [email protected]. That was with no cooling down in between runs, bonnet down and only 12min since my last run, hence the low MPH, but on that one pass run a 1.998 60ft, hence the quicker time. I didn't believe there were cars that could run 12's stock, I honestly expected a high 13, so I'm rapped, and completely stock at that, and as far as I am led to believe the Tornado weighs 1865kg, and is 60kg heavier than the sedan.... Imagine what my car could do with 60kg less weight, and I weigh 110kg, so with my mate who weighs 65kg driving, there's another 55kg..... 6BOOST