crazyxa

Check what is draining the battery. Could be short in the trailer wiring. How old is the battery? The last issue you had with the warnings and errors is probably due to the battery being flat.

LOL you are avoiding answering how you checked the ZF fluid level after filling it.

That is the same as doing two services in a row so will still mix old and new fluids in the converter hence you will still not get all the old crap out. However it is still a good option.Now I never done this on a ZF however this works on a BTR (BA 4 speed). I run a tube from the outlet into a bucket or see through container. With engine on let the box pump it out fluid while you pump clean fluid in via the filler. On your own this will take a while as you can't keep up and pump in while it pumps out. It takes about 20litres to see ultra clean fluid come through. Now the above should also work with a tube connected to the bottom outlet on the passenger side. However not sure if thus is a good thing for the ZF oil pump under these conditions.

If you did not follow the fluid change thread and my steps on page 5 then you got it way wrong! http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/84229-The-%22-Fluid-Change-%22/page__view__findpost__p__1417995

Hate when people come to a forum ask for help and then never post back with the fix.

Josh883 did you fill and do the fluid level check as per ZF instructions at 40deg Celsius?

Why a rebalance? Surely if they took the time to mark the tail shaft to gear box and tail shaft to diff and marked and ordered the factory plastic weights exactly how it was you would not have to be paying another $100 and losing a day.

Second hand as new FG key $35, eBay blade $12, Mr Minit key cut of said blade $35, ford dealer key program $94 = $176 I then purchased a third eBay flip $25 FG key and had it cut for $35 then programmed that as my 3rd backup key.

Be careful. My 3rd key is a ebaykey and it does everything bar memory for seats and mirror dip settings. I was able to program the transponder and keyless entry buttons no problem. So the question you need to ask the eBay seller is will this key 100% function with a G6E that saves memory function for seat mirror ect Other option is buy a genuine second hand FG key from a wrecker and re blade it with an eBay blade then get it cut at a Mr Minit then off to ford to program it as your new second key. I did all the above as I purchased my car with only one key. I too now keep three keys so if one is lost or damaged I can program a third one myself.

Which people? PWR unit is a heat exchanger. It functions exactly the same as the OEM unit. Only difference is it is made to high manufacturing standard unlike the random crap one that Ford uses.

Phil great post on page one. Could I just ask you update or remove the confusing text around coding a key if you only have 1 key. THIS DOES NOT WORK. I tried it a few times. My only option was a dealer to code my second key. F.Y.I for others. I had one original key and no cutting code. Understand I can get that however I purchased one second hand (as new own FG key) removed the old blade, purchased a new blade and an FG key key from eBay for under $45. Got both blades cut at MrMinit and had Ford code the second key. With two keys I was able to then code my third eBay key with steps in the manual or as per Phil posted up. Note. There is always a risk doing the old school MrMinint lathe style cut. Best option is get the cutting code for your car from Ford and then just go to a lock smith and ask that they cut you a new blade. BTW most locksmiths will only cut their own supplied blades or an OEM blade so you need a Ford invoice to prove purchase.

And how do you know I'm not engineer? Or a oil technician? Sounds like the point I'm am trying to make is lost on most in this forum.

Flawed logic. ZF with a heat exchanger will be using its cold mapping sequences when it's cold. As you say 2-3 minutes. LOL IN Melbourne on cold morning it will be cold all morning just not 2-3 minutes. In the southern cold climate States no heat exchanger means in winter you could only ever be running the ZF for extended periods under suboptimal cold shift. If I lived in NT, WA or most places up North air to air would not fuss me so much. Anecdotal evidence and blankly saying one solution is better than the other is ill informed. I agree that one solution means no mix of coolant and fluid ever however it s not without its potential side affects.

The internal Mechtronics unit (ECU) for the ZF.

When you guys talk ambient air temps context is important. What state of Australia are making reference to? Because Melbourne and Tassie winter morning temps can go as low is 0-5 deg Celsius or lower! So for a road car in Melb and Tassie you would be kidding yourself thinking that your trans temps will be fine with an air to air cooler for the morning commute from April to August when it's fkn freezing outside! How and where you use your car / climate and or race track needs to be carefully considered before you trust the Internet on what is best for your application.

I would not bother spending any money on it after the rebuild given you will sell it. The standard intercooler pipes are fine on factory boost. I and others I know have had no issues. Mine are almost on 5 years and 65,000km. It's your money.

Seems to work for Fraud / Ford and this warranty company who is ripping this bloke a new one. For how many years now has Fraud persisted with this one part known to fail? Ask yourself how many people have been caught out just outside of warranty and then forked out 8k plus for a gearbox. Sorry but righteous Ford is not. Apathy for the consumer is order of the day.

Short term my idea is costly. Once you sell the repaired car it is not. It may cost you nothing in the end. BTW my idea its a practice dealers/trade has done this for years. Used to be easy if you could find a rental car same make. How do you guys think dodgy backyarders ever made cash.

Ok if all else fails buy a G6ET with factory warranty get a few mates around swap your blown box with farked exchanger and claim the repair on the car with warranty. Note the mechtronics unit will be fried and the dumb c@nts won't check either on the warranty car. If anything maybe pull it out and soak it in salt water too That's how I would win this! Then sell the car in worst condition. Also purchase a PWR exchanger. Note. On the good box you swap into your current car you will have to pay another dealer to reprogram to the PCM. Worst case you spend $140 for that and beer and pizza for your mates time. The final win option that I would not consider involves a jerry can and matches and you making profit.

I can't believe you would bother tracking something like this. If you are going to do laps get something small that handles and no issues if you bin it. My G6ET is a great family hauler but to even to get it to handle and go around corners like a 20year old Rex would is money pissed down the drain. Each to their own.

I have had the same issue with my G6ET 2010 model for a year now with battery resets doing the trick 3 times. Glovebox manual says it is emissions so was not too stressed. Now issue is coming back every 100km so have got off my arse and purchased an eBay Bluetooth ELM327 and downloaded FORScan app. What came up: ===DTC P0133-C=== Code: P0133 - HO2S-11 circuit slow response Status: - Confirmed - malfunction is confirmed Module: On Board Diagnostic II Diagnostic Trouble Code details HO2S has been switching too slowly. This DTC may be caused by : Aged or Contaminated HO2S11. ===END DTC P0133-C=== Above points to pre cat front O2 sensor. For good measure I cleaned both pre and post car O2 sensors with carby / throttle body cleaner. Also re torqued / tightened both exhaust and inlet manifolds while there. And for final good measure sprayed throttle body cleaner into the throttle body. Have now reset the DTC above, allot easier now with FORScan. If it comes back a replacement Bosch O2 sensor is going in.

I purchased direct from ZF Services in Sydney ph (02) 9679 5555 They shipped to Melbourne too. ZF Metal Pan Kit (BMW Pan as per pic from earlier post). Part no 1068 103 820 01. Comes with bolts, filter and gasket all for $266 I also purchased 20 litres of ZF Lifeguard $481 (works out to $24 a litre) Shipping $20 Note. You could easily tap a sump bolt into an existing metal pan but I could be farked and figured I would sell the old metal pan. eBay temp probe --> Just search Digital LCD Probe Fridge Freezer Thermometer Thermograph The one I purchased and works perfectly http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Digital-LCD-Probe-Fridge-Freezer-Thermometer-Thermograph-for-Refrigerator-110-/300835102158?pt=AU_Decor_Furnishing&var&hash=item460b2b5dce&_uhb=1 Steps I used for service and fluid level check. Note originally taken from Furitech Automotive site. ZF website also has a process flow map with pictures: Filling The Oil (via transmission side filler) On the left hand side of the transmission housing looking from the back to the front there is a filler plug towards the front of the transmission. Filling The Oil (via sump if fitted or via transmission side filler) Note. If you have a side filler and a sump filler just use one, obviously. 1. With the engine off remove the filler plug with an 17mm allen key (if using pan) or 8mm allen key (if using side filler). 2. With the engine off pump the fluid in until it starts to run out the hole. (If using the pan filler then confirm the pump nozzle is pointing in the correct direction which will allow the oil to enter the sump. If oil deflector is in the correct position the nozzle should face the back of the transmission. Have a good look up there with a torch to get an idea and make sure you don’t damage the plastic deflector). 3. Once the fluid starts to run out replace the filler plug loosely. 4. With the gear selector in Park start the vehicle’s engine. Note. Engine revs should be around 750rpm (You may need to turn on Head Lights or Air Conditioning to raise RPM). 5. With engine running remove the filler plug and continue filling until fluid starts to run out. Replace the filler plug (not tight yet). 6. With engine still running place your foot hard on the brake pedal: a. Select Drive, hold for 3 seconds, foot hard on brake b. then select Reverse, hold for 3 seconds, foot hard on the brake c. Repeat a and b. The point is to make sure each gear is engaged and has adequate oil flow. 7. Foot hard on the brake and place car in Park. In theory the transmission temp should be at about 40°C or over. 8. It does not take very long for the transmission to reach 40°C. You can check this by touch, but be careful. If the metal transmission pan is too hot to touch then it’s a no brainer and the transmission is hotter than 40°C. Shut the car off and wait till the pan cools down I.e. it should be warm to touch. When this is the case it should be at around 30-35°C. Another way to check the transmission has cooled down is to use masking tape and stick your probe to the pan to confirm or if using the Ford Diagnostic Scanner to view temp. 9. Final check. a. Now that the transmission is at the right range restart the car and have your temperature probe ready to go with the readout in a viewable location. b. You may want to consider having a clean bucket or container on hand if you want to save the spilled fluid, option only. c. Start the car and remove the filler plug. It is very likely the fluid will gush out when the filler is removed. Don’t be alarmed it will reduce to a trickle in no time. Using a probe thermometer or a scan tool check the fluid temp. If using a probe insert the probe in the filler hole. If the temp is between 40°C - 50°C and fluid streams out then re insert the filler plug and torque it down to 35Nm +/- 3.5Nm. If no fluid has streamed out at 40°C - 50°C then it requires a top up. See Oil Overflow below. Monitoring If you have a Diagnostic Scanner available it is recommended to plug in and monitor the engine Revs and Transmission Oil Temperature. Recommended Revs 750 while in Park. Recommended Temperature 40°C at final check. If no Scanner is available do not run longer than 15 minutes during filling time. If temperature rises over 50°C allow the transmission to cool before final check. Oil Overflow When full there should be a small stream of oil if it stops streaming at correct temperature add a bit more. If you remove the Pump Nozzle and its pouring out its over full allow it enough time to drain. Conclusion With the correct Temperature, Engine RPM and Oil Overflow Stream you can now replace the filler plug and tighten to the recommended torque setting. Information List · Recommended Fluid – ZF-LifeGuard Fluid 6 · Recommended Checking Temperature – 40°C · Recommended Checking RPM – 750rpm · Drain Plug Tightening Torque – 8 Nm (Polyamide Oilpan) · Filler Plug Tightening Torque - 35 Nm +/- 3.5Nm (Plug on side of Case) · Drain Plug Tightening Torque - 12 Nm (Steel Oilpan) · Filler Plug Tightening Torque - 80 Nm (17mm HEX Steel Oilpan)

I used an eBay probe thermostat inserted into the filler. Cost was $2.00 I also replaced my steel pan with a new from ZF BMW Steel pan that has a drain and filler integrated into the pan. Makes subsequent services so much easier!

OK thanks ratter and PWRCOOL makes sense to me. I did lose a fair bit of coolant during the install, as line clamps I have were rubbish! I topped the coolant so figure I have an air lock as I was unable to get the car up to adequate temp in the driveway. Was only 10 degrees last Saturday in Melbourne. Perhaps I am also looking for or hearing a noise that was always there. If I do have an air lock it should clear up eventually right? after a decent drive whereby the thermostat opens. PS. The PWR heat exchanger unit was quite easy to install other than the transmission hose ends. Your instructions should state in BOLD do not even try to install the hose on the speed flow fitting if not using: 1. A vice 2. Hose ends left in almost boiling hot water to prep the hoses 3. A heat gun to further prep the hose end 4. Soap to lube the fitting I found even with steps 1 - 4 above I still needed to use allot of force to get them to seat fully. That stated it was bloody cold in the garage on the day so the hoses were like ice when I started. Cheers and well done on a great product.

Any noticed any coolant air lock issues after the PWR exchanger install? I have one and it does my head in. Only hear at start up as a running water type noise behind the dash. BTW I have tried running the car with heater on and reservoir cap off, but has not helped. That it was only 12 degree days so may not by cycling past the thermo or opening. Have flushed the FG before and never had an issue. So wondering if this is a potential issue with how the coolant lines are run to the unit.