crazyxa

All the various updates are confusing and I can confirm Kayhan can be a bit of a c@nt when sh*t goes wrong. I have the update that fixes the dual zone and puts the current temp in the header amongst other things like allowing lock unlock without ignition on. Also I have the firmware update for the CarPlay default USB annoying pop up. Additional fixes I have had to apply: 1. Inline 12v noise suppressor. I was getting background engine noise as revs rose even with the system off. 2. Install 12v to 5v converter plus rca amp wiring to initiate amp / factory subwoofer. This is I am installing Friday. I can update the post with links if they still exist or just pm me your email and I will email the zip files which I have on pc.

It is not great and is no doubt something you should start preparing to fix. I can’t imagine it not getting worse. Out if interest which cam is it?

Out of interest. How many kms has that engine travelled? Given my recent experience I would say that’s normal wear for an engine that’s travelled 80k as that’s what my undamaged lobes looked like as seen in my pics.

Any fault codes logged?

Thanks all!

Thanks. I do have the manual however I guess I am being extra careful. I have been looking at the crow cams website and it stipulates their cam assembly lube is required for flat tappet cams. Anything with a roller is engine oil.

Hey guys I’m about to install my new genuine inlet cam and new follower and lash adjuster. I have coated it all up in my engine oil Nulon 10w 40 Synthetic. Is this ok? Or does an OHC roller follower cam need assembly lube on the cam loves? Also on first start up do I need to bed it in via running at 2000rpm ish for 15 mins.

Thanks never seen it before. Cheers.

Might be a silly question but is there a special 10mm socket for the sprocket bolt?

Hey guys given this thread also applies to me I thought it would best to post here for continuity. My FG Turbo with 88,000km (running Nulon full Syn 10w40 since 50,000km) has developed a tapping noise from the cam cover. This has gotten worse / more pronounced recently, so could not be ignored. As seen and heard here in my vid. After removal of cam cover I found a badly damaged lobe on the inlet cam cylinder 1. Timing looked ok, spring looks good and even the roller/follower still rolls and looks ok. So what are my options? Obviously it’s a new inlet cam. What are the must do’s, like do I need to replace all followers when fitting a new cam, I assume so. What else needs doing? Or is a second hand cam with all its followers an option also. Also do people think the cause is just poor manufacturer? Thanks in advance.

To stop the crunch when going from park to reverse is simple. When ever you are about to put the car in park and you are stopped simply apply the brakes shift to neutral pull the hand brake and foot off brake. ensure the vehicle load is taken up by the handbrake. This method ensures I never get the crunch / clunk. To stop the crunch when going from park to reverse is simple. When ever you are about to put the car in park and you are stopped: 1. simply apply the brakes 2. shift to neutral 3. pull the hand brake 4. foot off brake to ensure the vehicle load is taken up by the handbrake. 5. Then lastly shift to park. This method ensures I never get the crunch / clunk.

Question. Which control arm bushes were stuffed top or bottom or both?

I drove a little Kia Cerato hatch rental the other day and f@ck me cars have come a long way. It was a 6 speed auto and everything worked well well and it drive great. Compared to the Hyundai excel I was a passenger in in the mid 1990's this thing was like an S Class. I will take a look at the Stinger when it's time to say goodbye to the G6ET.

I don't agree. Why waste money. I had the upstream O2 die at 50,000km. 5 years and 40,000km later the down stream O2 is still fine.

Have you tried it in performance mode or just normal? Performance mode will generally hang onto gears longer and or change down earlier.

FORScan tool would of showed you that due to a weak battery at start up you would have a plethora of initialisation codes. Even if the battery had enough juice to crank and start (will start with 9v) the car needs a full 12v for full systems initialisation routines. Retards at the dealer should of told you that. Checking the battery with a multimeter will have also diagnosed low voltage at start up.

Keep it stock suspension for a road car. If you want to hit the track get a Rex with well sorted suspension. FG's are barges simple as that. They are good sledge hammers. For corner carving it is a battle of physics and futility.

Thanks for fixing that.

Ok as a rule of thumb I would start here: 1. Checking alternator: Get a multi-meter set it to amps and measure how much current is being made at the alternator at idle. Should be around 12v. Also check at the battery positive too. 2a) To check if the battery is being drained when car is parked: • disconnect the negative battery terminal and put a test light between the battery terminal and the negative cable. If the test light illuminates then something is draining current! 2b) now repeat step 2a) check with multimeter Get a multi-meter set it to amps and measure how much current is being drawn with the car off, alarms in general draw very little, audio amplifiers wired incorrectly are usually the culprit and or a bad factory module. If there is little to no draw, then id be looking at the alternator as above. 3. Now if you can confirm current is being drawn which sounds likely given your description then you need to start with known issues/modules as highlighted in previous posts. 3a) Disconnect the negative battery terminal for safety. 3b) Disconnect the power seat at the loom connector and ensure the seat no longer functions. Then do the checks from step 2 again. If the battery no longer drains / measurable current draw then that's it. Alternatively try the same thing with the power auto dip mirrors. That said given its part of the drivers side seat base the initial disconnection of the power seat loom will kill power to this too. Hope this helps. If it does please report back. And BTW 3 batteries is enough evidence that this issue needed an auto electrician and not a fraud dealer.

I agree with others it's bland as all f*ck. Much prefer the FG G6ET in winter white. That's a winner.

Same that $20 or so has paid for itself so many times over it ain't funny.

I have done this on other cars and is safe if you use your brain. Like DISABLING THE CAR FROM SRARTING by pulling the fuel pump relay. I was probably more concerned on how to tighten the crank bolt when the job is done. Thanks guys.

All depends on how long it takes you to remove the crank bolt and pulley. With the right tools probably 2hrs max. Someone who does them all the time even less. Note I am assume Ing the timing cover does not need to be removed to remove the front crank seal.

What is the best way to loosen and tighten the crank pulley bolt on a ZF equipped auto FG? Is it like the BTR auto where you remove the transmission bell housing inspection plate or is there a port to lock the drive plate / flywheel with a large flat head? Then breaker bar and some shoulder. Same to tighten also?

A laptop or Android phone running FORScan with a $19 eBAY OBD2 dongle would be doing the same thing that you will be likely paying 100% more for at Fraud.