groper

ahhhhhhhh bugger! justin pipped me hey? whats the details...

the torque limit can now be bypassed... expect more to follow... incl the fords of course...

blueboost has proven that water/meth injection works teriffic on these cars... its a band aid for the POS stock intercooler not being able to keep intake temps down... still, personally I would rather have a topnotch intercooler instead, that way you have it all the time and it doesnt cost that much more...

stock sounds about right, give or take... flash in the 10psi tune mate, you wont be able to wipe the smile off your face for a week! transforms it into a different car...

im with ya zap, except for the part about rudd being a good leader... the economy is set by the howard government over the last decade for things to go in one direction... inflation up... as all of their policies have been inflationary... inflation has already started to move alarmingly higher and will continue to do so... then a labour government gets into power, at which point everyone blames the hard times ahead on them (with high interest rates to keep inflation in check)... sound familiar? thing is though, everyone loves inflation!!! seeing their assett increase in value, everyone loves that... so its like wow, im doing really well financially now... thanks johnny/pete for the great economic prosperity... until the inflation gets out of control, interest rates must follow to keep the bubble from bursting and a period of slow growth or recession follows! the issue is the time it takes for all this to happen... the kind of time that goes well beyond 1 election term...

give us a run down on all the costs involved too mate if you dont mind! handy info for anyone about to head down this road...

you boys really need to get laid... then again, who needs sex when ya can get the real thing!

UTFSE... all the 10sec cars are WELL covered in here... I dont see why you would need to ask?

I was wondering how to go about temporarily disabling the ABS system for a skid competition coming up... I think I read a while back but cant remember, that if you jack up the car and spin a wheel before turning the key, the car thinks it has a faulty wheel sensor and so switches teh ABS off... can anone confirm if this works?

yep, I never got to try a textralia clutch, but I rang them and they do sound VERY good, and VERY CONFIDENT about the clutch as there are a few 9sec ls1 cars running them and would have been my next choice after the wog clutch I bought. Blueboost reckons that alot of the quick cars at the drags are running the textralia twin plate very reliably so they are holding up well. There is a more streetable carbon kevlar version aswell, both friction plates can be interchanged for the ceramic/graphite type or vice versa, meaning if you dont like one type, you can change out the plates for the other ie... street or drag etc... only costs about 200 bux for the plates, the rest of the clutch is identical. retails for around $1800 I think inc flywheel and alloy csc... I chose the wog clutch coz it was cheaper at under $1500 inc flywheel and alloy csc, and being organic sprung hub plate, has very good manners on the street. beautiful clutch to drive, and its holding my 1200nm so far so good. There are many good clutches on the market, including but not limited to forum sponsors, if you look carefully... the option 6 clutch is supposed to be very tuff, but a bit of a bitch to drive, and noisy... if you search the forum you will find members who are finding the option 6 hard to live with in day to day traffic use, its more for racing use... my 2c...

so we have people saying is helps lag and some who say it doesnt... damn, looks like im gonna have to try this myself... ive read simon from nispro write up on BOV`s, and I agree with alot of it and disagree with some of it too. It baffles me why garrett themselves promote the use of BOV`s (look up thier web site) and yet somone as clued up as simon can say the opposite??? who to believe??? nispro or garrett? both have proven their expertise in their field...

im very interested in improving lag between gear changes myself, keen to hear more on this subject as im unsure whether to add a second BOV or get rid of it completely... im wondering whether the air going back thru the turbo when the throttle closes with no BOV slows the turbo shaft speed more or less, than if it were released rapidly thru bigger/more BOV`s?

hmmmm, might have to bust out that martini`s 110! all is going well mate, the shudder is almost gone in the clutch but still there a tad somtimes esp when cold... where is the best place to get some proper rubber? do I need some other rims too? I wanna have a crack down the quarter in townsville somtime soon...

yeah mate, im not worried... otherwise id be on the phone every 5mins... its beeen in for about 1000k`s of city driving now... time to give it some curry?

I havnt cooked the clutch nick, it shuddered from day 1, dave will confirm that, and has been slowly improving since... I have just noticed that it behaves the best and doesnt shudder after its warmed up a bit... not cooked! im very happy with the clutch mate, I just hope this SLIGHT shudder goes away completely soon...

you have gapped your plugs down to .75mm I assume?

I have one of these fitted about 2-3 weeks ago, it is an excellent clutch for pedal feel/weight and does the job of holding big power and torque. The only thing that's not perfect is mine still has a slight shudder every now and then... if I get the clutch nice and hot, say after a couple hard launches etc, the shudder is gone. Then next day when cold, I might get a slight shudder when moving off etc... I was hoping this would go away but it hasnt yet, it is however slowly improving...

got this one up to 4th but then missed the gear change into 5th and stopped... for some reason it wouldnt go in??? Z4nnTbES01E

beat ya plazmaman!

well if it werent for convection, how would the full charge air get cooled when only part of it is in actual contact with the cooling fins? doesnt the gas molecules mix togeather and the cooler gas molecule that has already given its energy to the cooling fins, cool the hotter gas that hasnt come into direct contact with the fins yet, by way of convection? its not part of the cooler iteself but it relies on this principal to operate, otherwise every single molecule would have to touch the metal by passing through some kind of `micro mesh`... bet that would be good for flow...

insulation, like anticon, sarking, aircell etc all use silver foil on at least one side to stop heat via radiation. the fibreglass wool, air pocket, or other media in the center or on the other side, serve to stop heat through convection and conduction. so an effective insulation works 3 ways to stop heat transfer. an effective intercooler should do the opposite, therefore it should be dull or dark, have maximum surface area in contact with both sides allowing maximum air to pass contact surface per time, and be made of high conductivity material, such as metal for instance... unfrortunately for this thread, 99.99% of the heat transfer by I/coolers is not via radiation PS hey adam, last I checked there was gas passing thru my cooler, convection??? :biggun:

shiny surfaces impede radiation, dull or dark surfaces allow more effective heat transfer through radiation hence black is better... my about a poofteenth of a bees dick considering most of the intercooling is done through convection and conduction. now can we lock this thread yet kids?

my silver cooler works just fine... Z4nnTbES01E

my car pinged on shell vpower 98, doesnt ping on BP ultimate 98... good enough reason for me to say that bp is better. I believe it has a lower aromatic content to bring it up to 98ron than anything else on the market hence the difference, ive read this somwhere but cant think where atm... IMHO BP98 or even better BP100 (from the distributor) are the best fuels you can use as they dont use ethanol or the like to make up the octance number...

they 16`s bud, 16`s... sh*t tyres none the less...